border · Jul 13, 2018

In one of my earlier threads when I first got my project, My main problem was welding the rear crossmemer back on the bare chassis without any of the body ect to line it up correctly, Got loads of Great advice from people om here like Nobber who suggested making a Jig. but another problem was that the previous owner for some reason has hacked it to bits in photo. Now here is a prime example of what I have to do http://www.landyrebuild.com/rear-crossmember-replacement.shtml#sthash.rVpZc3oQ.dpbs
Only I don't have the bolt holes on my old one.??
Chassis is completely bare now not rolling just stood on Axle Stands.
Thanks

jamesmartin · Jul 13, 2018

theres enough left to go from but why not wait till you have a rear tub

border · Jul 13, 2018

jamesmartin said:
theres enough left to go from but why not wait till you have a rear tub

If all goes to plan I hope to get it welded first, then sand blasted then Galvanised.

jamesmartin · Jul 13, 2018

have you not got a tub to sit on it

border · Jul 13, 2018

jamesmartin said:
have you not got a tub to sit on it

Just the two bottom sides in photo,

jamesmartin · Jul 13, 2018

border said:
Just the two bottom sides in photo,

lol, theres still enough left to go from you only need height and distance back/front

border · Jul 13, 2018

jamesmartin said:
lol, theres still enough left to go from you only need height and distance back/front

I don't even know what goes between these two sides , as I did not take it apart, knowing me

Ill probably have it in the shed as there was loads of bits that came along with it.

jamesmartin · Jul 13, 2018

border said:
I don't even know what goes between these two sides , as I did not take it apart, knowing me Ill probably have it in the shed as there was loads of bits that came along with it.

i meant using whats left of chassis as a guide,theres too little body

border · Jul 13, 2018

jamesmartin said:
i meant using whats left of chassis as a guide,theres too little body

Sorry , where would you suggest ? somewhere here ? green rings

jamesmartin · Jul 13, 2018

weld 2 pieces of bar one on each leg that reach the rear of cross member and sit on the top of it ,thats were new must fit against

border · Jul 13, 2018

jamesmartin said:
weld 2 pieces of bar one on each leg that reach the rear of cross member and sit on the top of it ,thats were new must fit against

I know what you mean , Its a Mate that is going to do it.
Well Could you Really imagine ME doing it coz I couldn't

Thanks Again James

Rodeo Joe · Jul 14, 2018

I think you would be best to do as has been said and wait till you have a complete tub to sit on it.
Put the bulkhead in place and put the door bottom bars between the tub and bulkhead . That way you know it must be right and the doors will fit!

border · Jul 14, 2018

Rodeo Joe said:
I think you would be best to do as has been said and wait till you have a complete tub to sit on it.
Put the bulkhead in place and put the door bottom bars between the tub and bulkhead . That way you know it must be right and the doors will fit!

if I had a complete tub I would Mate, While Im waiting to get it done one might come up then will do it that way, just makes the job a lot longer as the lad who is doing it only has use of garage for so long. Plus I have to get the full chassis to him then pick it up as soon as he's finished.

border · Sep 16, 2018

jamesmartin said:
weld 2 pieces of bar one on each leg that reach the rear of cross member and sit on the top of it ,thats were new must fit against

Well Finally got it done . The lad done as said above, everything seems to be spot on. Every where I measure from one point to another then measure again opposite side they are exactly the same so hopefully

it should be good when the body finally goes on.

border · Sep 18, 2018

Was going to start a new thread on my next question but will leave it here, as I have started that many, Really need to keep them all in one rebuild thread.
Anyway got my chassis sorted, been thinking what to do Galvanise or clean Prime and Paint, think the only way to go really is Galvanise as I will regret it if I don't.
Only thing stopping me is Funds so will just wait until I can afford then get it done.
The Galve company said that it had to be Sandblasted first before they would take it, so might get that done soon then Galvanise at a later date, my question is should I put Primer on after the Sandblast or will I have to leave it bare for the Galv company as it could be a few weeks later when I send it to them ???
Hope yous can understand all that

Thanks

Al2O3 · Sep 18, 2018

border said:
Was going to start a new thread on my next question but will leave it here, as I have started that many, Really need to keep them all in one rebuild thread.
Anyway got my chassis sorted, been thinking what to do Galvanise or clean Prime and Paint, think the only way to go really is Galvanise as I will regret it if I don't.
Only thing stopping me is Funds so will just wait until I can afford then get it done.
The Galve company said that it had to be Sandblasted first before they would take it, so might get that done soon then Galvanise at a later date, my question is should I put Primer on after the Sandblast or will I have to leave it bare for the Galv company as it could be a few weeks later when I send it to them ???
Hope yous can understand all that
Thanks

In a few weeks you'll only have light surface rust. The galv company should be acid dipping your chassis before hot dipping it. The acid bath takes off any surface rust, so no need to prime it. If you are unsure about the processes the galv company use then I would give them a bell and ask. With it not being new metal, you want yours to have a good long soak in the acid to get the inside of the chassis down to bare metal.

border · Sep 18, 2018

Al2O3 said:
In a few weeks you'll only have light surface rust. The galv company should be acid dipping your chassis before hot dipping it. The acid bath takes off any surface rust, so no need to prime it. If you are unsure about the processes the galv company use then I would give them a bell and ask. With it not being new metal, you want yours to have a good long soak in the acid to get the inside of the chassis down to bare metal.

Thanks will give them a ring tomorrow to confirm, I know this is on here somewhere but does anyone know the average weight of a 110 chassis??

mick the builder · Sep 19, 2018

border said:
Well Finally got it done . The lad done as said above, everything seems to be spot on. Every where I measure from one point to another then measure again opposite side they are exactly the same so hopefully it should be good when the body finally goes on.

If your measurements are exactly the same from side to side then you could have trouble fitting the tub. They never came from the factory that exact.

border · Sep 19, 2018

mick the builder said:
If your measurements are exactly the same from side to side then you could have trouble fitting the tub. They never came from the factory that exact.

Disco1BFG · Sep 19, 2018

Al2O3 said:
In a few weeks you'll only have light surface rust. The galv company should be acid dipping your chassis before hot dipping it. The acid bath takes off any surface rust, so no need to prime it. If you are unsure about the processes the galv company use then I would give them a bell and ask. With it not being new metal, you want yours to have a good long soak in the acid to get the inside of the chassis down to bare metal.

+1 - to be a pedant here, (sorry), I'd actually say that they must be acid dipping before galv ...... and if the galv company start umming and arrhing about this, then IMHO, go elsewhere.... You could even ask if they have done this sort of thing before..... I.E. galvanised a repaired "thingy" - I can't imagine they haven't, but you never know

mick the builder said:
If your measurements are exactly the same from side to side then you could have trouble fitting the tub. They never came from the factory that exact.

So true

.....

......

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