T

Timmers

Active Member
Evening all. With the excitement of having my d3 back on the road I’ve decided to love the old girl some more. So I’ve bought some manuals and will go through a plan to check fluids, pads and other great stuff On a regular basis. Bought my self an aurel ap200 scanner and a multimeter!
1st job though is to do something about the horrible back plate noise on the front wheels.
ill have a good look on the weekend and see if they’ve corroded or just need bending maybe.
can you live without back plates or is that a big no?
i saw someone that got rid of noise by using large washers to fix them in place better.


Any thoughts on back plates please?
 
Timmers said:
Evening all. With the excitement of having my d3 back on the road I’ve decided to love the old girl some more. So I’ve bought some manuals and will go through a plan to check fluids, pads and other great stuff On a regular basis. Bought my self an aurel ap200 scanner and a multimeter!
1st job though is to do something about the horrible back plate noise on the front wheels.
ill have a good look on the weekend and see if they’ve corroded or just need bending maybe.
can you live without back plates or is that a big no?
i saw someone that got rid of noise by using large washers to fix them in place better.


Any thoughts on back plates please?
Click to expand...
Bin them, fronts are easy, rears are a massive job to replace properly, or you can just cut off the thin tin bit but leave the much heavier metal that the handbrake shoes mount on.

Diff oils are well worth doing as they hold so little.

Brake caliper slides like to seize if not greased annually.
 
lynall said:
Bin them, fronts are easy, rears are a massive job to replace properly, or you can just cut off the thin tin bit but leave the much heavier metal that the handbrake shoes mount on.

Diff oils are well worth doing as they hold so little.

Brake caliper slides like to seize if not greased annually.
Click to expand...
Cheers @lynall
they won’t be missed then!
are there situations when they are a good thing? Or just a good thing until they start getting noisy?
 
Timmers said:
Cheers @lynall
they won’t be missed then!
are there situations when they are a good thing? Or just a good thing until they start getting noisy?
Click to expand...

Basically meant to protect the discs from rocks/mud/snow etc, none of which are really an issue in the UK.

Some trucks even have them fitted, which makes discs impossible to see on inspections, so when the discs get renewed the backplates tend to get skipped.
 
Cheers Gary
I’ve just bought an online version of a Haynes manual so I can see it on my phone and iPad and because they have maintenance plans.
I’m sure they used to have exploded parts diagrams but maybe I was wrong. I need to find a how this works sort of thing for the whole car. It’s all new to me.
 
tilly2 said:
I have to admit, on my D2, I replaced the front plates with new ones....
Click to expand...
I think some people do some people don’t.
I’m going to just because I can 😂
But it’s not like I haven’t a million other really much more important things I need to do.
 
So I’m getting noise from passenger side front and rear.
I’ve tried pushing them back from the disc but still makes a horrendous noise. Not all the time though.
Anyway general concensus (sounds like a Star Wars character which reminds me of a joke so I’ll head over to that thread in a mo)
Is that it’s ok to bin them. In this country. Front and rear?
So to bin them I need to take wheels off. Pads off. Discs off. Whilst checking each. 👍 🙂

The instructions I’m working off at the mi are a Haynes manual and it’s companion auto fix app.
The online thing says I need a brake piston retraction tool. The book doesn’t mention it.
Confused! Do I need one please? Cheers
Y’all been amazing so far. 🙏
 
Timmers said:
So I’m getting noise from passenger side front and rear.
I’ve tried pushing them back from the disc but still makes a horrendous noise. Not all the time though.
Anyway general concensus (sounds like a Star Wars character which reminds me of a joke so I’ll head over to that thread in a mo)
Is that it’s ok to bin them. In this country. Front and rear?
So to bin them I need to take wheels off. Pads off. Discs off. Whilst checking each. 👍 🙂

The instructions I’m working off at the mi are a Haynes manual and it’s companion auto fix app.
The online thing says I need a brake piston retraction tool. The book doesn’t mention it.
Confused! Do I need one please? Cheers
Y’all been amazing so far. 🙏
Click to expand...
hi buddy

when u took the calliper off did u apply some copperslip in the pad clips and on the back of the piston plse as this can sometimes make them noisy when u apply the brakes

also here’s a part link


it is best to use a calliper piston tool as it pushes the piston back squarely, , plus need to ensure the slider pins are greased with some ceramic grease so then the calliper moves properly as then the pads should wear and brake evenly


here’s also a full brake guide


hope it’s useful
 
Last edited:
These are the clips I’m talking about , ref picture , the pad ends sit in these and as u press the brakes the pads move in those metal clips , copperslip is added as they can squeak, don’t need much and indeed need to ensure none gets on the brake disc or surface side of the pads, I always put a smear of copper slip on the back of the pads and in those pad metal clips

plus the slider pins need to be free so the calliper moves evenly when braking , small amount of ceramic brake grease is best onto the pins so there don’t seize up

cant remember which side tbe brake pad wear sensor are fitted , should be in the video and this is normally replaced when the pads and discs are replaced, plus there’s the abs speed sensors

on fitting new discs need to ensure a de greaser is used on each side to take off the thin film of grease that’s on there from the factory

when u push back the pistons its easier if u take off the brake master cyl cap, ( located drivers side engine bay under the aux battery cover ) then wrap a cloth around it as when u push the pistons in the brake fluid will rise and can spill out so plse ensure none gets on paint work as it will seriously damage it

brake fluid must also be dot 4 class 6

lastly plse don’t ever put any grease/ copperslip on wheel studs

IMG_4968.jpeg


also handy to have a bungee cord or hook to Hang the brake calliper up to prevent the brake hoses being stretched , also inspect the brake hoses to ensure there’s no build up of rust on each end

hope this helps
 
Last edited:
Ceramic grease for calliper slide pins , only need a smear on them and not on the rubber

www.ebay.co.uk

Ceramic Brake Grease VHT High Temperature Lubricant ABS Braking System 70g 5020618008408 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Ceramic Brake Grease VHT High Temperature Lubricant ABS Braking System 70g at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.
www.ebay.co.uk

copper slip for the ends and back of the pads

www.ebay.co.uk

Carlube COPPER SLIP 20g Multipurpose Anti Seize Assembly Compound Grease 5010373888766 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Carlube COPPER SLIP 20g Multipurpose Anti Seize Assembly Compound Grease at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.
www.ebay.co.uk
 
@gstuart Gary! I’m going to have to print all this to digest it. Thank you very much.
It’s a bit like I’m mortal and you’re immortal and I’ve started some sort of download! A torrent of info. 😂
Don’t get me wrong it’s appreciated. Thank you. I can see my self stating a job that would take someone who knows 2 hours and it will take me all day!
If you’re ever near Stonehenge I owe you many beers. 🙏🍻🍻
 
Timmers said:
@gstuart Gary! I’m going to have to print all this to digest it. Thank you very much.
It’s a bit like I’m mortal and you’re immortal and I’ve started some sort of download! A torrent of info. 😂
Don’t get me wrong it’s appreciated. Thank you. I can see my self stating a job that would take someone who knows 2 hours and it will take me all day!
If you’re ever near Stonehenge I owe you many beers. 🙏🍻🍻
Click to expand...

ur so very welcome

dam, I always thought we were in the matrix, lol

indeed we all have to start somewhere , when I bought my D3 some 6 x years ago I knew nothing about them , so was just the case of getting help from some amazing forum members

think it was like a trial by fire when I was looking for air leaks and why the suspension wouldn’t work , wow , I seriously opened a huge can of worms but things like that I enjoyed resolving and finding the errors , but most of all learning how it all worked , starting with the front valve block / struts and working my way back

often wondered if my 25 plus years fault finding heating systems / wiring etc helped due to the fault finding methods

know these motors need a bit more attention that some other landies but seeing they drive so nice and comfortable u always get that smile on ur face whilst on the motorway as the miles go by

as always great pleasure to help and don’t hesitate to ask if u get stuck as there’s always someone around that can assist

IMG_4976.jpeg
IMG_4975.jpeg
 
Timmers said:
@gstuart Gary! I’m going to have to print all this to digest it. Thank you very much.
It’s a bit like I’m mortal and you’re immortal and I’ve started some sort of download! A torrent of info. 😂
Don’t get me wrong it’s appreciated. Thank you. I can see my self stating a job that would take someone who knows 2 hours and it will take me all day!
If you’re ever near Stonehenge I owe you many beers. 🙏🍻🍻
Click to expand...

hi mate

managed to find a video where I mention about putting copperslip on the pad ends , in the Video he’s doing the rear brakes , but shows in the first 8-9 seconds him applying it

also thought this video may come in hamd6 for the rears

hope this also helps u

ps, this couple are currently restoring a D3 from the frame up

 
gstuart said:
ur so very welcome

dam, I always thought we were in the matrix, lol

indeed we all have to start somewhere , when I bought my D3 some 6 x years ago I knew nothing about them , so was just the case of getting help from some amazing forum members

think it was like a trial by fire when I was looking for air leaks and why the suspension wouldn’t work , wow , I seriously opened a huge can of worms but things like that I enjoyed resolving and finding the errors , but most of all learning how it all worked , starting with the front valve block / struts and working my way back

often wondered if my 25 plus years fault finding heating systems / wiring etc helped due to the fault finding methods

know these motors need a bit more attention that some other landies but seeing they drive so nice and comfortable u always get that smile on ur face whilst on the motorway as the miles go by

as always great pleasure to help and don’t hesitate to ask if u get stuck as there’s always someone around that can assist

View attachment 292482View attachment 292483
Click to expand...
Cheers. So much to learn.
Thanks again
lynall said:
Remove front shields and bin them, if noise continues investigate more, ignore rears as to much ag.
Click to expand...
hi @lynall
Cheers. Why too much agro on the rears?
 
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