T

Thilder via CarKB.com

Guest
Folks, I have recently purchased my first Wrangler. It is a 92 4cyl 4wd -
stock. I was able to get it cheap because of a slight issue - it does not go
into gear. My understanding is that it started out not going into 5th gear.
Then, all at once, it would not go into any gear and is currently stuck in
neutral. This is a toy for my first, and do not plan on off roading. What I
would like to do is to repair this as cheaply as possible and move on to some
body work. These are my questions: I have heard that the syncros would
cause it to not go into gear. What other problems could it be. I can "feel"
the clutch engage and disengage when running. I have done many engine
rebuilds in the past amoung other repairs but have always avoided trannys.
Are there other things that I can check prior to dropping it? Can I rebuild
the tranny myself if patient? Once I drop the tranny, how do I tell what the
problem may be or if the syncros are bad? Any input is helpful. Thanks
 
If by stuck you mean literally jammed in neutral, that's a fairly
common problem. The shift arm jumps out of the track/indents inside
on the shift rails. Pull the shift tower and look inside where the
shifter goes. You'll see notches on the shift rails where the shifter
is supposed to sit. Chances are, one or more has shifted and is
jamming the works. I had a rebuilder tell me that the reverse/fifth
is the worst for jumping the track - he was insistent that I use some
sort of synthetic oil that did not stiffen up in cold weather to avoid
the situation of backing out of the parking spot and not being able to
shift. He walked me thru places to pry on it with a big screwdriver
to pop it back, but I can't describe it any more. It should be
obvious what's out of alignment and not letting the shifter select one
of the side rails.

On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 05:47:42 UTC "Thilder via CarKB.com" <u14359@uwe>
wrote:

> Folks, I have recently purchased my first Wrangler. It is a 92 4cyl 4wd -
> stock. I was able to get it cheap because of a slight issue - it does not go
> into gear. My understanding is that it started out not going into 5th gear.
> Then, all at once, it would not go into any gear and is currently stuck in
> neutral. This is a toy for my first, and do not plan on off roading. What I
> would like to do is to repair this as cheaply as possible and move on to some
> body work. These are my questions: I have heard that the syncros would
> cause it to not go into gear. What other problems could it be. I can "feel"
> the clutch engage and disengage when running. I have done many engine
> rebuilds in the past amoung other repairs but have always avoided trannys.
> Are there other things that I can check prior to dropping it? Can I rebuild
> the tranny myself if patient? Once I drop the tranny, how do I tell what the
> problem may be or if the syncros are bad? Any input is helpful. Thanks


--
Will Honea
 
Will Honea wrote:
> If by stuck you mean literally jammed in neutral, that's a fairly
> common problem. The shift arm jumps out of the track/indents inside
> on the shift rails. Pull the shift tower and look inside where the
> shifter goes. You'll see notches on the shift rails where the shifter
> is supposed to sit. Chances are, one or more has shifted and is
> jamming the works. I had a rebuilder tell me that the reverse/fifth
> is the worst for jumping the track - he was insistent that I use some
> sort of synthetic oil that did not stiffen up in cold weather to avoid
> the situation of backing out of the parking spot and not being able to
> shift. He walked me thru places to pry on it with a big screwdriver
> to pop it back, but I can't describe it any more. It should be
> obvious what's out of alignment and not letting the shifter select one
> of the side rails.
>
> On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 05:47:42 UTC "Thilder via CarKB.com" <u14359@uwe>
> wrote:
>
>
>>Folks, I have recently purchased my first Wrangler. It is a 92 4cyl 4wd -
>>stock. I was able to get it cheap because of a slight issue - it does not go
>>into gear. My understanding is that it started out not going into 5th gear.
>>Then, all at once, it would not go into any gear and is currently stuck in
>>neutral. This is a toy for my first, and do not plan on off roading. What I
>>would like to do is to repair this as cheaply as possible and move on to some
>>body work. These are my questions: I have heard that the syncros would
>>cause it to not go into gear. What other problems could it be. I can "feel"
>>the clutch engage and disengage when running. I have done many engine
>>rebuilds in the past amoung other repairs but have always avoided trannys.
>>Are there other things that I can check prior to dropping it? Can I rebuild
>>the tranny myself if patient? Once I drop the tranny, how do I tell what the
>>problem may be or if the syncros are bad? Any input is helpful. Thanks
>
>
>

As long as you use 75w90, Dino or SYN, you should not have any problem.
The AX5 s cinsiders a LD unit though it holds up okay behind the 4cyl.
IF you evet replace it, the heavier duty AX15 used behind bigger engine
will go in without too much fuss and give you a taller OD too.

-----------------
www.thesnoman.com
 
I didn't think the AX15 bolted up to the 2.5 L?


"TheSnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
news:iAv_e.4974$vw6.1887@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net...
> Will Honea wrote:
>> If by stuck you mean literally jammed in neutral, that's a fairly common
>> problem. The shift arm jumps out of the track/indents inside on the
>> shift rails. Pull the shift tower and look inside where the shifter
>> goes. You'll see notches on the shift rails where the shifter
>> is supposed to sit. Chances are, one or more has shifted and is jamming
>> the works. I had a rebuilder tell me that the reverse/fifth is the worst
>> for jumping the track - he was insistent that I use some sort of
>> synthetic oil that did not stiffen up in cold weather to avoid
>> the situation of backing out of the parking spot and not being able to
>> shift. He walked me thru places to pry on it with a big screwdriver to
>> pop it back, but I can't describe it any more. It should be obvious
>> what's out of alignment and not letting the shifter select one
>> of the side rails.
>>
>> On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 05:47:42 UTC "Thilder via CarKB.com" <u14359@uwe>
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Folks, I have recently purchased my first Wrangler. It is a 92 4cyl
>>>4wd -
>>>stock. I was able to get it cheap because of a slight issue - it does
>>>not go
>>>into gear. My understanding is that it started out not going into 5th
>>>gear.
>>>Then, all at once, it would not go into any gear and is currently stuck
>>>in
>>>neutral. This is a toy for my first, and do not plan on off roading.
>>>What I
>>>would like to do is to repair this as cheaply as possible and move on to
>>>some
>>>body work. These are my questions: I have heard that the syncros would
>>>cause it to not go into gear. What other problems could it be. I can
>>>"feel"
>>>the clutch engage and disengage when running. I have done many engine
>>>rebuilds in the past amoung other repairs but have always avoided
>>>trannys.
>>>Are there other things that I can check prior to dropping it? Can I
>>>rebuild
>>>the tranny myself if patient? Once I drop the tranny, how do I tell what
>>>the
>>>problem may be or if the syncros are bad? Any input is helpful. Thanks
>>
>>
>>
>
> As long as you use 75w90, Dino or SYN, you should not have any problem.
> The AX5 s cinsiders a LD unit though it holds up okay behind the 4cyl. IF
> you evet replace it, the heavier duty AX15 used behind bigger engine will
> go in without too much fuss and give you a taller OD too.
>
> -----------------
> www.thesnoman.com


 
I looked at some of that when I was swapping out a BA 10/5. Bolts up
OK, but the clutch and output spline counts are different. The AX5 is
also considerably shorter than the AX15, so there will be mount and
driveshaft length issues as well. More work than it looks like at
first glance.

On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 14:37:02 UTC "Greg" <greglc84@hotmail.com> wrote:

> I didn't think the AX15 bolted up to the 2.5 L?
>
>
> "TheSnoMan" <admin@snoman.com> wrote in message
> news:iAv_e.4974$vw6.1887@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net...
> > Will Honea wrote:
> >> If by stuck you mean literally jammed in neutral, that's a fairly common
> >> problem. The shift arm jumps out of the track/indents inside on the
> >> shift rails. Pull the shift tower and look inside where the shifter
> >> goes. You'll see notches on the shift rails where the shifter
> >> is supposed to sit. Chances are, one or more has shifted and is jamming
> >> the works. I had a rebuilder tell me that the reverse/fifth is the worst
> >> for jumping the track - he was insistent that I use some sort of
> >> synthetic oil that did not stiffen up in cold weather to avoid
> >> the situation of backing out of the parking spot and not being able to
> >> shift. He walked me thru places to pry on it with a big screwdriver to
> >> pop it back, but I can't describe it any more. It should be obvious
> >> what's out of alignment and not letting the shifter select one
> >> of the side rails.
> >>
> >> On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 05:47:42 UTC "Thilder via CarKB.com" <u14359@uwe>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>Folks, I have recently purchased my first Wrangler. It is a 92 4cyl
> >>>4wd -
> >>>stock. I was able to get it cheap because of a slight issue - it does
> >>>not go
> >>>into gear. My understanding is that it started out not going into 5th
> >>>gear.
> >>>Then, all at once, it would not go into any gear and is currently stuck
> >>>in
> >>>neutral. This is a toy for my first, and do not plan on off roading.
> >>>What I
> >>>would like to do is to repair this as cheaply as possible and move on to
> >>>some
> >>>body work. These are my questions: I have heard that the syncros would
> >>>cause it to not go into gear. What other problems could it be. I can
> >>>"feel"
> >>>the clutch engage and disengage when running. I have done many engine
> >>>rebuilds in the past amoung other repairs but have always avoided
> >>>trannys.
> >>>Are there other things that I can check prior to dropping it? Can I
> >>>rebuild
> >>>the tranny myself if patient? Once I drop the tranny, how do I tell what
> >>>the
> >>>problem may be or if the syncros are bad? Any input is helpful. Thanks
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> > As long as you use 75w90, Dino or SYN, you should not have any problem.
> > The AX5 s cinsiders a LD unit though it holds up okay behind the 4cyl. IF
> > you evet replace it, the heavier duty AX15 used behind bigger engine will
> > go in without too much fuss and give you a taller OD too.
> >
> > -----------------
> > www.thesnoman.com
>
>


--
Will Honea
 
Greg wrote:
> I didn't think the AX15 bolted up to the 2.5 L?


They used to used them behind 6's too (AX5's) until they switched over
to AX15 on 6's in the early 90's or so. You may have to tweak the clutch
linkage/slave cylinder and you may have to replace clutch disc because
of different spline count but bellhousing engine bolt partern is the
same between 2.5 and 4.0 because they are both AMC engines and the 2.5
is based on a 6 cyl block

-----------------
www.thesnoman.com
 
Will Honea wrote:
> I looked at some of that when I was swapping out a BA 10/5. Bolts up
> OK, but the clutch and output spline counts are different. The AX5 is
> also considerably shorter than the AX15, so there will be mount and
> driveshaft length issues as well. More work than it looks like at
> first glance.
>


Given though that these extra needed parts are availble in a bone yard
because it is a production item, it is not that hard to do. I am
actually debating doing it to my wifes 2000 Cherokee (last year they
made one with a 4cyl) for the taller OD gear (.78 vs .86) Also there is
2 or 3 versions of the AX5

-----------------
www.thesnoman.com
 
The shifter isnt jammed rigid in its slot. It does move from side to side in
its "normal" range. While running, I even tried to move the shifter to see
if I could feel or hear a grind and it doesnt go that far into any gear. I
pulled the shifter and the bushing at the end seems fine. I also pulled the
cap plate and took a look inside. The first thing I noticed when pulling the
shifter was small chunks that I thought at first was metal. But they break
apart easily with a fingernail. It appeared to be buildup or "gunk" but
might be a seal or rubber piece? They were caked around the shifter ball.
The inside under the cap looks good and clean. I did notice one thing though
while looking. The shaft immediately under what looks to be a "rocker arm"
with a bolt in it - the very first set of teeth that is apart of the shaft
before the c-ring looks to be missing teeth on the very top. Is that correct?
It is not smooth as if it were cast without the teeth. It looks almost
chipped or broken. The gear immediately behind that appears to be in good
shape. Does any of this make sense?


--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/4x4-cars/200509/1
 
it sounds more like you might need a clutch.the pieces on shifter pivot are
worn down bushings. keep it from rattling.if clutch pedal is good see if
access hole in trans housing allows view of slave cylinder operation as
pedal is pumped.

 
clemdog wrote:
>it sounds more like you might need a clutch.the pieces on shifter pivot are
>worn down bushings. keep it from rattling.if clutch pedal is good see if
>access hole in trans housing allows view of slave cylinder operation as
>pedal is pumped.

While I have the shifter out and the cap plate off, I started it with the
clutch in and then slowly let it out and was able to see the gear oil
whirring around inside. Everything would settle each time I pushed the
clutch in so it seems to be engaging ok. No guarantee that it is perfect,
but it is at least turning the insides of the trans.


--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/4x4-cars/200509/1
 
On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 22:04:52 GMT, "Thilder via CarKB.com" <u14359@uwe>
wrote:

> I did notice one thing though
>while looking. The shaft immediately under what looks to be a "rocker arm"
>with a bolt in it - the very first set of teeth that is apart of the shaft
>before the c-ring looks to be missing teeth on the very top. Is that correct?
>It is not smooth as if it were cast without the teeth. It looks almost
>chipped or broken. The gear immediately behind that appears to be in good
>shape. Does any of this make sense?

I've seen situations wherer one gear was destroyed and the mating gear
was without any damage. (Once had a diff where the pinion gear had
*no* teeth left, while the ring gear was still in excellent
condition!) But that is very unusualy.

I'd say, (and this is just a WAG) that there is a serious internal
problem with the transmission. Might be easiest to pull it and tear it
down and see what is up (or down... <g>) with it.

Try draining the oil, see if it (the oil) is clean. Stick a magent
into the drain and see what pulls out, if anything.
 
I think you are confusing the AX5 with the Puegot BA 10/5 - which was
also to darned light for the 6. My XJ and MJ shop manuals all show
the BA10/5 used with the 4.0 from 84 through mid-90. I know the YJ
also used the Puegot with the 6, not the AX5.

On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 19:01:37 UTC TheSnoMan <admin@snoman.com> wrote:

> Greg wrote:
> > I didn't think the AX15 bolted up to the 2.5 L?
>
>
> They used to used them behind 6's too (AX5's) until they switched over
> to AX15 on 6's in the early 90's or so. You may have to tweak the clutch
> linkage/slave cylinder and you may have to replace clutch disc because
> of different spline count but bellhousing engine bolt partern is the
> same between 2.5 and 4.0 because they are both AMC engines and the 2.5
> is based on a 6 cyl block
>
> -----------------
> www.thesnoman.com


--
Will Honea
 
"Will Honea" wrote:
>I think you are confusing the AX5 with the Puegot BA 10/5 - which was

>also to darned light for the 6. My XJ and MJ shop manuals all show
>the BA10/5 used with the 4.0 from 84 through mid-90. I know the YJ
>also used the Puegot with the 6, not the AX5.
>
>
>
>

I knew about the BA 10/5 but my source also tells me that the AX 5 was
used some too though early 90’s behind some 6’s before the AX15 came
out. Both AX5 and AX15 are built in Japan and the BA 10/5 in france.
The BA 10/5 have the same output splines (21) but different input
splines (AX5 is 1" 14 spline and BA 10/5 is 1 1/8" 10 spline)
Also the AX5 has a 3.93 first gear and a .85 OD while the BA 10/5 has
a 3.39 first gear and a .79 OD, the middle gears are the same. The
AX15 has the same input splines as the BA 10/5 (1 1/8" 10 spline)
but a different output splines (the AX15 has 23 vs 21 on BA 10/5 and
AX5) and first gear is 3.83 and OD is .79. The T5 made by Borg Warner
was also used fore bit in the early to mid 80’s and it has the same
input and output splines as the AX15 with a 4.04 first gear and a .8
OD. (I have data on all of the trannies that Jeep used from about day
one)

--
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Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards
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if trans is internally operating then your lack of engagement exists in the
transfer case portion of the drivetrain.be certain lever is in proper
position view operation of lever from under vehicle.worse case is
something broken internally.

 
On Thu, 29 Sep 2005 19:36:50 UTC SnoMan
<UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote:

> "Will Honea" wrote:
> >I think you are confusing the AX5 with the Puegot BA 10/5 - which was
>
> >also to darned light for the 6. My XJ and MJ shop manuals all show
> >the BA10/5 used with the 4.0 from 84 through mid-90. I know the YJ
> >also used the Puegot with the 6, not the AX5.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> I knew about the BA 10/5 but my source also tells me that the AX 5 was
> used some too though early 90Æs behind some 6Æs before the AX15 came
> out. Both AX5 and AX15 are built in Japan and the BA 10/5 in france.
> The BA 10/5 have the same output splines (21) but different input
> splines (AX5 is 1" 14 spline and BA 10/5 is 1 1/8" 10 spline)
> Also the AX5 has a 3.93 first gear and a .85 OD while the BA 10/5 has
> a 3.39 first gear and a .79 OD, the middle gears are the same. The
> AX15 has the same input splines as the BA 10/5 (1 1/8" 10 spline)
> but a different output splines (the AX15 has 23 vs 21 on BA 10/5 and
> AX5) and first gear is 3.83 and OD is .79. The T5 made by Borg Warner
> was also used fore bit in the early to mid 80Æs and it has the same
> input and output splines as the AX15 with a 4.04 first gear and a .8
> OD. (I have data on all of the trannies that Jeep used from about day
> one)

I forgot all the exact numbers but those sounds like what I found.
When I went to replace the BA 10/5 in my '88 MJ I looked at the AX5 a
guy had behind one of the puny diesels and found the number changes to
be more than I wanted to handle. Then I learned that there are at
least 2 different gear cuts and 2 bearing styles on the NP231 input
gear in addition to the spline count. Put the wrong gear cut in and
that sucker howls like a banshee but it's really hard to tell the two
apart.

--
Will Honea
 
Will Honea wrote:
> On Thu, 29 Sep 2005 19:36:50 UTC SnoMan
> <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote:
>
>
>>"Will Honea" wrote:
>>
>>>I think you are confusing the AX5 with the Puegot BA 10/5 - which was
>>
>>>also to darned light for the 6. My XJ and MJ shop manuals all show
>>>the BA10/5 used with the 4.0 from 84 through mid-90. I know the YJ
>>>also used the Puegot with the 6, not the AX5.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>I knew about the BA 10/5 but my source also tells me that the AX 5 was
>>used some too though early 90Æs behind some 6Æs before the AX15 came
>>out. Both AX5 and AX15 are built in Japan and the BA 10/5 in france.
>>The BA 10/5 have the same output splines (21) but different input
>>splines (AX5 is 1" 14 spline and BA 10/5 is 1 1/8" 10 spline)
>>Also the AX5 has a 3.93 first gear and a .85 OD while the BA 10/5 has
>>a 3.39 first gear and a .79 OD, the middle gears are the same. The
>>AX15 has the same input splines as the BA 10/5 (1 1/8" 10 spline)
>>but a different output splines (the AX15 has 23 vs 21 on BA 10/5 and
>>AX5) and first gear is 3.83 and OD is .79. The T5 made by Borg Warner
>>was also used fore bit in the early to mid 80Æs and it has the same
>>input and output splines as the AX15 with a 4.04 first gear and a .8
>>OD. (I have data on all of the trannies that Jeep used from about day
>>one)
>
>
> I forgot all the exact numbers but those sounds like what I found.
> When I went to replace the BA 10/5 in my '88 MJ I looked at the AX5 a
> guy had behind one of the puny diesels and found the number changes to
> be more than I wanted to handle. Then I learned that there are at
> least 2 different gear cuts and 2 bearing styles on the NP231 input
> gear in addition to the spline count. Put the wrong gear cut in and
> that sucker howls like a banshee but it's really hard to tell the two
> apart.
>


Are you talking maybe about the 231 and the 231 HD? The 231 HD has
different bearings and chain too.

-----------------
www.thesnoman.com
 
On Fri, 30 Sep 2005 22:57:33 UTC TheSnoMan <admin@snoman.com> wrote:

> Will Honea wrote:
> > On Thu, 29 Sep 2005 19:36:50 UTC SnoMan
> > <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> >>"Will Honea" wrote:
> >>
> >>>I think you are confusing the AX5 with the Puegot BA 10/5 - which was
> >>
> >>>also to darned light for the 6. My XJ and MJ shop manuals all show
> >>>the BA10/5 used with the 4.0 from 84 through mid-90. I know the YJ
> >>>also used the Puegot with the 6, not the AX5.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>I knew about the BA 10/5 but my source also tells me that the AX 5 was
> >>used some too though early 90Æs behind some 6Æs before the AX15 came
> >>out. Both AX5 and AX15 are built in Japan and the BA 10/5 in france.
> >>The BA 10/5 have the same output splines (21) but different input
> >>splines (AX5 is 1" 14 spline and BA 10/5 is 1 1/8" 10 spline)
> >>Also the AX5 has a 3.93 first gear and a .85 OD while the BA 10/5 has
> >>a 3.39 first gear and a .79 OD, the middle gears are the same. The
> >>AX15 has the same input splines as the BA 10/5 (1 1/8" 10 spline)
> >>but a different output splines (the AX15 has 23 vs 21 on BA 10/5 and
> >>AX5) and first gear is 3.83 and OD is .79. The T5 made by Borg Warner
> >>was also used fore bit in the early to mid 80Æs and it has the same
> >>input and output splines as the AX15 with a 4.04 first gear and a .8
> >>OD. (I have data on all of the trannies that Jeep used from about day
> >>one)
> >
> >
> > I forgot all the exact numbers but those sounds like what I found.
> > When I went to replace the BA 10/5 in my '88 MJ I looked at the AX5 a
> > guy had behind one of the puny diesels and found the number changes to
> > be more than I wanted to handle. Then I learned that there are at
> > least 2 different gear cuts and 2 bearing styles on the NP231 input
> > gear in addition to the spline count. Put the wrong gear cut in and
> > that sucker howls like a banshee but it's really hard to tell the two
> > apart.
> >
>
>
> Are you talking maybe about the 231 and the 231 HD? The 231 HD has
> different bearings and chain too.

No, somewhere in time they made 2 changes to the input gear: modified
gear cut (still mates but not very well) and what the parts book
refers to as High Step and Low Step bearings where the thickness of
the input bearing was decreased. The junk yard I bought the stuff
from actually sent me 4 input shafts and gears to cover the four
possibilities. The bearing style was obvious, but (of course) I
picked the wrong gear cut the first time. Darned if I could tell the
difference but did it ever howl going down the road!

--
Will Honea
 
On Fri, 30 Sep 2005 22:57:33 UTC TheSnoMan <admin@snoman.com> wrote:

> Will Honea wrote:
> > On Thu, 29 Sep 2005 19:36:50 UTC SnoMan
> > <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> >>"Will Honea" wrote:
> >>
> >>>I think you are confusing the AX5 with the Puegot BA 10/5 - which was
> >>
> >>>also to darned light for the 6. My XJ and MJ shop manuals all show
> >>>the BA10/5 used with the 4.0 from 84 through mid-90. I know the YJ
> >>>also used the Puegot with the 6, not the AX5.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>I knew about the BA 10/5 but my source also tells me that the AX 5 was
> >>used some too though early 90Æs behind some 6Æs before the AX15 came
> >>out. Both AX5 and AX15 are built in Japan and the BA 10/5 in france.
> >>The BA 10/5 have the same output splines (21) but different input
> >>splines (AX5 is 1" 14 spline and BA 10/5 is 1 1/8" 10 spline)
> >>Also the AX5 has a 3.93 first gear and a .85 OD while the BA 10/5 has
> >>a 3.39 first gear and a .79 OD, the middle gears are the same. The
> >>AX15 has the same input splines as the BA 10/5 (1 1/8" 10 spline)
> >>but a different output splines (the AX15 has 23 vs 21 on BA 10/5 and
> >>AX5) and first gear is 3.83 and OD is .79. The T5 made by Borg Warner
> >>was also used fore bit in the early to mid 80Æs and it has the same
> >>input and output splines as the AX15 with a 4.04 first gear and a .8
> >>OD. (I have data on all of the trannies that Jeep used from about day
> >>one)
> >
> >
> > I forgot all the exact numbers but those sounds like what I found.
> > When I went to replace the BA 10/5 in my '88 MJ I looked at the AX5 a
> > guy had behind one of the puny diesels and found the number changes to
> > be more than I wanted to handle. Then I learned that there are at
> > least 2 different gear cuts and 2 bearing styles on the NP231 input
> > gear in addition to the spline count. Put the wrong gear cut in and
> > that sucker howls like a banshee but it's really hard to tell the two
> > apart.
> >
>
>
> Are you talking maybe about the 231 and the 231 HD? The 231 HD has
> different bearings and chain too.

No, somewhere in time they made 2 changes to the input gear: modified
gear cut (still mates but not very well) and what the parts book
refers to as High Step and Low Step bearings where the thickness of
the input bearing was decreased. The junk yard I bought the stuff
from actually sent me 4 input shafts and gears to cover the four
possibilities. The bearing style was obvious, but (of course) I
picked the wrong gear cut the first time. Darned if I could tell the
difference but did it ever howl going down the road!

--
Will Honea
 
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