JamesBB

Active Member
My job for tomorrow morning (weather permitting) is change the oil and filter in the gearbox.

Mine is a 96 4.6 so I have a dipstick so the plan is once I have drained it and installed the new filter/O rings and gasket, to refill via the dipstick tube in 1 litre steps letting it settle each time before checking the level after 4 litres.

The only other way I have heard of refilling is to remove the dipstick tube and fill from there. Is it any easier? I would guess not.

I am using Comma Semi Synthetic ATF that meets Dex II and III standards.

I am not experiencing any major problems, although it is a little sluggish to change up. I had a couple of bogus ( I suspect/hope) messages saying "gearbox" fault followed by a "gearbox overheat" the other day, but as it was stone cold and had driven for 100 yards I ignored it.
Cleaned up the temp sensor connections at the front near the oil cooler, seems ok now.

Fingers crossed all will be ok.

Any tips appreciated.
Cheers
 
Dip stick is only way to fill it. Put in 4 litres then run engine, move through gears put in park, top up until level is correct. You will need more than 4 litres but less than 5. So slowly slowly catchy monkey.
 
Dip stick is only way to fill it. Put in 4 litres then run engine, move through gears put in park, top up until level is correct with engine still running. You will need more than 4 litres but less than 5. So slowly slowly catchy monkey.
Just to clarify:)
 
Next time I do my filter in the box I'm getting three new bolts that hold it in make sure you got a good torx bit
 
Thanks for the input guys.

I will check my torx bits and get a new one if needed.

Just to double check, what size is it? I can probably find it in Rave, but it maybe quicker here ;)

Cheers
 
Thanks for the input guys.

I will check my torx bits and get a new one if needed.

Just to double check, what size is it? I can probably find it in Rave, but it maybe quicker here ;)

Cheers

Sorry I can't remember I know they are small think its the 2nd or 3rd one in set mine was really tight and somebody had almost chewed it.

It was the corner one so lucky I undid the one to the scoop and the other one and pulled down the filter slightly its very thin . And with the help of the filter turning it in the right direction it helped loosen the bolt ;)

Migh be worth getting some I'm going to swap mine to Allen key heads next time
 
Just to check, mine is a 1996, I do not need to "Loosen forward bolt securing
snubber bar to cross member" but I do need to "Release fluid filler tube from pan."

When refitting the filler tube, how do I get it torqued up to 70Nm?
There must be a trick to this when you just have a standard torque wrench.

Any tips on that?

Cheers in advance
 
Just to check, mine is a 1996, I do not need to "Loosen forward bolt securing
snubber bar to cross member" but I do need to "Release fluid filler tube from pan."

When refitting the filler tube, how do I get it torqued up to 70Nm?
There must be a trick to this when you just have a standard torque wrench.

Any tips on that?

Cheers in advance

leaking = Too loose
Cracked nut = Too tight
 
Just to check, mine is a 1996, I do not need to "Loosen forward bolt securing
snubber bar to cross member" but I do need to "Release fluid filler tube from pan."

When refitting the filler tube, how do I get it torqued up to 70Nm?
There must be a trick to this when you just have a standard torque wrench.

Any tips on that?

Cheers in advance

You can't without a special adaptor for the torque wrench. Just clean it up, a smear of Hylomar on both faces and a good nip up. It will never leak.
 
Thanks guys.

I have hit a blocker anyway for now, I do not have a spanner the correct size for the filler tube nut.

I have searched on here for the size and cannot find it and I am not even remotely tempted to use an adjustable or mole grips (been there), so I better get a vernier caliper and spanner after that. Bugger. Running out of time, may have to do it during the week.

Ta
 

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