pussyeater

pussyeater

New Member
It's easy to underestimate the importance of using the right oil and easy to buy the wrong oil so i thought these different lube advisor tools would help us, a lot of you already use them but some might not know about them.

Welcome to the Comma Oil & Chemicals Ltd. Website go to application guide

LubeMatch - United Kingdom

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/iframe.do?categoryId=9024084&contentId=7044829

Be sure to read the footnotes ( if you see any letter like a,b,c etc find out what they mean at the bottom of the page)
 
pussyeater said:
It's easy to underestimate the importance of using the right oil and easy to buy the wrong oil so i thought these different lube advisor tools would help us, a lot of you already use them but some might not know about them.

Welcome to the Comma Oil & Chemicals Ltd. Website go to application guide

LubeMatch - United Kingdom

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/iframe.do?categoryId=9024084&contentId=7044829

Be sure to read the footnotes ( if you see any letter like a,b,c etc find out what they mean at the bottom of the page)
Click to expand...
hi so for the td4 02 plate it says on castro site to use 5w-40 oil but surely this is ok to use when the engine is new but as it gets old should you no use a more thicker oil i use 15w-40 in my L series which as done123000 and td4 which as done 85000
 
cremator said:
hi so for the td4 02 plate it says on castro site to use 5w-40 oil but surely this is ok to use when the engine is new but as it gets old should you no use a more thicker oil i use 15w-40 in my L series which as done123000 and td4 which as done 85000
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Definatley not cremator

85000 miles is nothing for a modern BMW engine bud, they'll do three times that mileage without any dramas or noticeable amounts of wear if you use the correct oil and change it at the right intervals

the performance level of pretty much all 15w-40's (which will be a bog standard mineral oil) will not be anywhere near as high as the fully synth 5w-40 recommended, in regards to viscosity, the 15w-40 is only thicker when the oil is cold as they are both a 40 when it's hot

the "15w" is the cold viscosity and the 40 is the hot viscosity

you would just be switching to an oil that
A doesn't get round the engine quick enough at start up to protect the engine properly and more importantly
B doesn't have anywhere near good enough performance to protect the TD4 engine properly thus greatly increasing the wear in your engine

definately switch back to the fully synth oil for your TD4

15w-40 is fine for a lot of older engines but modern engines are a lot more highly stressed as they squeeze more power out of smaller engines so require a much higher performing lubricant

best regards
 
Well i don't personally go with this theory. . . .Ive been using halfreds half synthetic doozel since i had the td4 change filter un oil every year and not every 6 months [don't do high mileage] and its as sweet as a nut, ran a 1.9 tdi for 12 years on the same stuff and when i Finally sold it as scrap engine was still perfect . . . .just my thought:) :) :)
 
ming said:
Well i don't personally go with this theory. . . .Ive been using halfreds half synthetic doozel since i had the td4 change filter un oil every year and not every 6 months [don't do high mileage] and its as sweet as a nut, ran a 1.9 tdi for 12 years on the same stuff and when i Finally sold it as scrap engine was still perfect . . . .just my thought:) :) :)
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hi guys thanks for that somethink i did nt no pussey eater mine due for a oil change so will go for the 5w-40 many thanks
 
ming said:
Well i don't personally go with this theory. . . .Ive been using halfreds half synthetic doozel since i had the td4 change filter un oil every year and not every 6 months [don't do high mileage] and its as sweet as a nut, ran a 1.9 tdi for 12 years on the same stuff and when i Finally sold it as scrap engine was still perfect . . . .just my thought:) :) :)
Click to expand...

Hi Ming

with regards to the TD4 engine

The best oil to use is an oil approved to BMW LL-01 which comes as a 5w / 0w-30 or 5w-40 usually. This is the requirement of the engine designer and builder to provide the best protection for the TD4 engine and for the sake of the extra money it's worth using an oil thats of this spec.

Lower performance oils can be used without seizing the engine as they obviously offer a certain amount of protection but they cannot offer as much protection from wear and oil degradation as the approved spec by the simple fact that they are lower in performance.

Your older 1.9TDi was the perfect match for the semi synthetic 10w-40 because whether you knew or not the 10w-40 semi synthetic was the premium specified oil for that engine. You were just using the perfect oil for your engine and changing it when it needed changing, it was loving it, and by the sounds of things probably would have done the same mileage again.

Obviously it's your engine but why not use the oil that best protects your engine for the sake of an extra £20 (in oil cost) per year.

best regards
 
cremator said:
hi guys thanks for that somethink i did nt no pussey eater mine due for a oil change so will go for the 5w-40 many thanks
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ok so just checked haynes manual and handbook and it says to use 10w-40 or 15w-40 nothing about that i could see about 5w-40
 
cremator said:
ok so just checked haynes manual and handbook and it says to use 10w-40 or 15w-40 nothing about that i could see about 5w-40
Click to expand...

I think this is a case of the handbook and haynes manual being out of date when it comes to oil recommendations. Land Rover must have listed those oils at first which Haynes then printed in their book which has since been revised to a higher spec oil. The lube advisors are always up to date as they get their info from OATS Technical & Marketing Solutions who get their info from Land Rover or in your case BMW.

I've double checked all the lube advisor sites i could think of Shell, Castrol, Comma, Valvoline and my Mobil handbook and although the product names and viscosities vary with the different oil companies they are all fully synthetic and BMW longlife approved. There is no longer any listing for 15w-40 or 10w-40 as far as i can see.

Pick an oil company you like then just buy the product they are recommending. My preference is Shell over Castrol as the synthetic base oil they use is better. They recommend Shell Helix Ultra VX or Castrol as you know is Edge Turbo Diesel 5w-40 or Edge Turbo Diesel 0w-30, any of these will be perfect.



Cheers
 
JonFre said:
pussyeater said:
definately switch back to the fully synth oil for your TD4
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pussyeater said:
The weakest part of the BMW engine is the turbo. Without doubt the best oil to withstand turbo temperatures is fully synthetic.
Fully synthetic is low cost insurance against turbo failure. All above IMHO.
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well what can i ay i thought oil was oil but thanks guys a very good eye opener that we should all be looking at when its time for a oil change what sort of prices are these type of oils as you no the td4 takes 6.8 litres
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cremator said:
JonFre said:
well what can i ay i thought oil was oil but thanks guys a very good eye opener that we should all be looking at when its time for a oil change what sort of prices are these type of oils as you no the td4 takes 6.8 litres
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You will only need 6 litres if you change the filter as well. I buy mine from Tesco Direct. My last purchase of 6 litres some two months ago cost £25.85 delivered ! I think it's dearer now.
Don't forget a 36mm socket, it makes things easier.
Click to expand...
 
JonFre said:
cremator said:
You will only need 6 litres if you change the filter as well. I buy mine from Tesco Direct. My last purchase of 6 litres some two months ago cost £25.85 delivered ! I think it's dearer now.
Don't forget a 36mm socket, it makes things easier.
Click to expand...
a thats where i been going wrong been putting 6.8 litres in after a oil and filter change just priced som 5w-40 shell oil up £40 for 5litres what you think
Click to expand...
 
cremator said:
JonFre said:
a thats where i been going wrong been putting 6.8 litres in after a oil and filter change just priced som 5w-40 shell oil up £40 for 5litres what you think
Click to expand...

Thats good mate and worth the extra money even compared with other cheaper fully synthetics. Shell is 100% first fill supplier to VW's most important engine plant in Salzgitter so the quality is guaranteed excellent https://www.volkswagen-media-servic..._salzgitter.standard.gid-oeffentlichkeit.html

Skoda retail that oil at about £11 plus vat per litre so you are getting a fair deal

Cheaper synthetics and some expensive ones (Castrol) tend to be hydrotreated mineral oil which is basically just highly refined but the Shell base oil is severly hydrotreated slack wax which is a by product of crude oil, it's a true synthetic oil and comparable to PAO in performance.

A good thing to do is use an engine flush like Forte or Wynns to de carbonize the oil system before you drain the oil out, it will do it the world of good and make your new oil last longer as it wont be using it's additive package up trying to clean up what was left behind by the previous oil.

Cheers
Click to expand...
 
pussyeater said:
cremator said:
Thats good mate and worth the extra money even compared with other cheaper fully synthetics. Shell is 100% first fill supplier to VW's most important engine plant in Salzgitter so the quality is guaranteed excellent https://www.volkswagen-media-servic..._salzgitter.standard.gid-oeffentlichkeit.html

Skoda retail that oil at about £11 plus vat per litre so you are getting a fair deal

Cheaper synthetics and some expensive ones (Castrol) tend to be hydrotreated mineral oil which is basically just highly refined but the Shell base oil is severly hydrotreated slack wax which is a by product of crude oil, it's a true synthetic oil and comparable to PAO in performance.

A good thing to do is use an engine flush like Forte or Wynns to de carbonize the oil system before you drain the oil out, it will do it the world of good and make your new oil last longer as it wont be using it's additive package up trying to clean up what was left behind by the previous oil.

Cheers
Click to expand...
so do i only need 6litres to do a oil andfilter change on a td4
Click to expand...
 
pussyeater said:
cremator said:
Thats good mate and worth the extra money even compared with other cheaper fully synthetics. Shell is 100% first fill supplier to VW's most important engine plant in Salzgitter so the quality is guaranteed excellent https://www.volkswagen-media-servic..._salzgitter.standard.gid-oeffentlichkeit.html

Skoda retail that oil at about £11 plus vat per litre so you are getting a fair deal

Cheaper synthetics and some expensive ones (Castrol) tend to be hydrotreated mineral oil which is basically just highly refined but the Shell base oil is severly hydrotreated slack wax which is a by product of crude oil, it's a true synthetic oil and comparable to PAO in performance.

A good thing to do is use an engine flush like Forte or Wynns to de carbonize the oil system before you drain the oil out, it will do it the world of good and make your new oil last longer as it wont be using it's additive package up trying to clean up what was left behind by the previous oil.

Cheers
Click to expand...

What a load of complete and utter bollox. :eek:
Click to expand...
 
cremator said:
pussyeater said:
in the manual it says 6.8 litres lets hope it is worth the money just seems alot to spend when i change the oil every 6months sorry to keep on about :blah: this
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Is that £40 inc vat and delivery?

If you are gonna get through a fair bit of it it might be worth you buying it in 20 ltr barrels as you will get a much better price

give these guys a ring or email and get a price off of them, i'm waiting for Shell to get back to me with a price of exactly the same thing so if i hear form them soon i'll let you know
Click to expand...
 
all of it.

but if you want to believe the marketing hype and waste loadsamunny, that's up to you.
I'll stick to me Tractor Universal at a quarter the price (and actually better oil for a Landy injun).

Oh and engine flushes are a seriously bad idea - especially for a higher mileage engine.
 
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