WLJayne

Well-Known Member

• Oct 22, 2012

• #1

Hi guys,

So it looks like the next chapter in my EWP saga is to fit a basic thermostat on the upper rad hose to help regulate the flow from the EWP. The EWP controller is supposed to do this but from reading about the problems that Ozzy classic restorers have had with theirs it seems they're all as **** at doing that as mine is.

So does any one an old non PRT stat they'd be willing to sell me? Or exchange for hobby stuff, I have tons of unbuilt Flames of War models going spare. It needs to go anyway.

Can anyone help ?

Will.

 

Nodge68

Well-Known Member

• Oct 22, 2012

• #2

I fitted an EWP on a TR6 engined Stitfire and had a problem with the heater output and general cooling issues. I found the EWP sensor needed to be in the hottest part of the engine or it came in to late. The heater did'nt work untill the water pump came on as unlike the engine driven pump there is no constant water circlation through the engine or heater circuit. The best place i found to fit the EWP was in line before the inlet to the engine pump. If it's in a different place you could find that the heater and IRD cooler could be in a dead circuit where little water will flow! If this is the case then you may have to fit a small constant running pump in the heater circuit!!

 

Last edited: Oct 22, 2012

The Mad Hat Man

Well-Known Member

LZIR Despatch Agent

• Oct 22, 2012

• #3

Meziere WN0072 Inline Thermostat Housing

not cheap - but one answer?

I still reckon you need to map out the coolant system and take temp measurements (&flow ones too, if you can) prior to doing too much cutting about. The problem is not temperature, but pressure points within the system, causing lack of flow.

http://www.landroversonly.com/forums/346626-post1.html

 

Last edited: Oct 22, 2012

WLJayne

Well-Known Member

• Oct 22, 2012

• #4

Thanks guys, not looking for anything fancy though here I've already spent enough cash on this!

Nodge, a small merc booster pump was what we are thinking for the heater matrix as you said we think they are dead circuits. DC have told many ozzy EWP customers to install a thermo with a 6mm drilled hole in it. Their controller obviosuly needs looking at but oh well it ain't a perfect system, as long as it works properly I really don't care at this point.

 

The Mad Hat Man

Well-Known Member

LZIR Despatch Agent

• Oct 22, 2012

• #5

Of course you can run the EWP without their controller............ just from a simple thermo switch, if yu wish????

 

The Mad Hat Man

Well-Known Member

LZIR Despatch Agent

• Oct 22, 2012

• #6

have yu read this ...... Coolant modifications EWP

 

WLJayne

Well-Known Member

• Oct 22, 2012

• #7

The Mad Hat Man said:

have yu read this ...... Coolant modifications EWP

Click to expand...

Yep read that before , also almost all failed pumps reported have been ones used without a controller. So I'd rather keep it. I think it just needs some help balancing out the temperature and a simple in line stat is what alot of people say solves the problem entirely. Might still need a booster on the HMC but hotter water is a good place to start with addressing that anyway.

 

The Mad Hat Man

Well-Known Member

LZIR Despatch Agent

• Oct 22, 2012

• #8

Also this - Radiator Fan Manual Switch S2 - TechWiki

and - this - A117M0038F | eBay

 

WLJayne

Well-Known Member

• Oct 22, 2012

• #9

The fans system works fine trouble is the EWP never lets it get that hot, or even near a proper operating temp - it's still overcooling the system which is causing both instability and the heater problem. Need to warm it up!

 

The Mad Hat Man

Well-Known Member

LZIR Despatch Agent

• Oct 22, 2012

• #10

WLJayne said:

The fans system works fine trouble is the EWP never lets it get that hot, or even near a proper operating temp - it's still overcooling the system which is causing both instability and the heater problem. Need to warm it up!

Click to expand...

NOOO! you dont! - you want to ascertain what the temperature is around the cooling system.

EG what if the main cooling system runs very cold, but hidden in the depths of the heads (due to poor flow) is a gigantic hot spot?

May I suggest that what you REALLY want to do is to ensure that the whole cooling system is uniform and running at its most efficient without any hotspots or cavitation, particularly after switch off.

ALWAYS REMEMBER THE PRIMARY FUNCTION!
Elementary Engineering.
What are you trying to achieve? Everything else should be trying to achieve that aim.

 

WLJayne

Well-Known Member

• Oct 22, 2012

• #11

The Mad Hat Man said:

NOOO! you dont! - you want to ascertain what the temperature is around the cooling system.

EG what if the main cooling system runs very cold, but hidden in the depths of the heads (due to poor flow) is a gigantic hot spot?

May I suggest that what you REALLY want to do is to ensure that the whole cooling system is uniform and running at its most efficient without any hotspots or cavitation, particularly after switch off.

ALWAYS REMEMBER THE PRIMARY FUNCTION!
Elementary Engineering.
What are you trying to achieve? Everything else should be trying to achieve that aim.

Click to expand...

Absolutely, we've been trying hard to make sure that the primary function is actually happening and we're pretty confident it is. Granted, it would be nice to go over the whole system with a thermometer and perhaps we'll try doing that. But just from feeling the top hose before the engine has shut down and then again after the EWP has finished it's post shutdown run on cycle we know that it is cooling it nice and quick. It would be nice to know wat the true temperature of the coolant at the outlet is, as I know that the displayed temp on the controller is waaaaay off. Perhaps I better invest in an infra red thermo before I do anything else.

But the fact the pump pulses almost all the time says it's overcooling the system to me. But at this point I just can't be certain. Jeesus what a massive ballache this is :deadhorse:.