Ryder

Ryder

Having a senior moment
Hi Guys...

Ok so I took out the gearbox. Sure enough much **** and oil splattered everywhere. thrust bearing about to give up the ghost comletely and clutch showing signs of wear so those have to be replaces also.

Removed the fly wheel (Kai thought the rear was supposed to be black instead of silver!

Now having got to the rear crank oil seal... my question is this... How do I get the damn thing out? Can i get to it from inside if I remove the sump?

Any clues/ideas or experience would be welcome.

Cheers R
 
hi have just rebuilt my v8.
to get at the seal you will have to remove the sump.
drop the mail bearing top shell.
the seal will slide on the crank shaft ,but you have to be carefull not to push the lip backwords.
then refit the the bearing cap and retorqe, dont get oil on the outside of the seal or it wont grip when the cap is tightened..

bit fiddley but this was my first time
 
Also try screwing a self tapping screw into old seal and pull or prise out. You should be able to gently tap the new one in.
 
guinness said:
hi have just rebuilt my v8.
to get at the seal you will have to remove the sump.
drop the mail bearing top shell.
the seal will slide on the crank shaft ,but you have to be carefull not to push the lip backwords.
then refit the the bearing cap and retorqe, dont get oil on the outside of the seal or it wont grip when the cap is tightened..

bit fiddley but this was my first time
Click to expand...

OK two questions,..

The book says to refit the cap but not torque it down... then refit the seal. I can't see why the seal should not be fitted prior to the cap being replaced... any thoughts?

Also

There are two seal, one on each side of the cap... the seals that I have replaced (the ones in the shape of a cross) protruded from the blockj by a couple of mm as per the book. The replacement ones did not protrude, in fact, although they fit nice and snug... the cross arms of the cross do not completely fill the cross shaped groove set out for them... ( I hope this makes some sense)

Have the original been superceded or have I been supplied the wrong part?

Thanks for the input guys!
 
Ryder Don't touch the seals either because I have it on good authority that contact with sweaty hand can damage it
 
jai_landrover said:
Ryder Don't touch the seals either because I have it on good authority that contact with sweaty hand can damage it
Click to expand...


Luckily I wasn't sweaty but I did handle them.... Hang on .... I was wearing gloves so not too much to worry about... thanks for the heads up thoguh!
 
iv just rebuilt my range rover 4.6v8 and now having problems with oil pressure squerting out both crank shaft seals. iv take the pump to bits anfd the relief valve to find. one piston/o ne spring/ what looks to be a valve guide???/ and end cap. have cheaked the rave manual and no sign of this valve guid tube thing can any one help please?????
 
seems you are all doing it the hard way if you drop the rear main cap replace the "T" seals as well not easy to refit use as already said a self tapper to remove the seal use a good rtv sealer for the sump not the cork gasket.
 
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