Cavey_P38

Cavey_P38

Well-Known Member
Full Member
Hi Guys my 110 project limps ever nearer to MOT

Having driven it up to Barn and back a few times i can feel on the steering that it is scuffing and scrubbing

I had to change both the drag link and track rod a both were bent so counting the thread turns wasn't ideal.

I had got it set fairly square, but then got interfered with the suggest of needs toe'in, farmer grab bar twiddle it about a few turns and now i have no idea how to get it back.

How many turns should i have lock to lock of steering wheel as well please.

Have undone the front arm but can get enough on that, guessing i will have to undo clamps on track rod and turn that to pull the rear of front wheels in.?

Any top tips greatly received , only want it roughly straight so i can MOT it then get it done at a garage..
 
On mine the length of the trackrod measured between the centers of the rod ends is 48.5".
This might be a good starting point but I would get it checked by a garage with a tracking guage.
Can't your MOT garage do it?
 
TR3a said:
On mine the length of the trackrod measured between the centers of the rod ends is 48.5".
This might be a good starting point but I would get it checked by a garage with a tracking guage.
Can't your MOT garage do it?
Click to expand...


Thanks will measure mine tomorrow

Yes he can but got to drive it there 20 miles and he will drive it for brake test so it wants to drive better than it does currently
 
Cheers @tottot

That was what i did last time it was more which bar should i undo and adjust the one at front or back

and should i set the steering wheel straight and work from their ?
 
Cavey_P38 said:
Cheers @tottot

That was what i did last time it was more which bar should i undo and adjust the one at front or back

and should i set the steering wheel straight and work from their ?
Click to expand...
Get the lock to lock count right then place steering in middle.
Move the front tube in/out til you have wheel in the correct place (or remove wheel if well out)
Rear bar does the toe in & out

Think it was 2 1/2 turns lock to lock
 
Hicap phill said:
Get the lock to lock count right then place steering in middle.
Move the front tube in/out til you have wheel in the correct place (or remove wheel if well out)
Rear bar does the toe in & out

Think it was 2 1/2 turns lock to lock
Click to expand...
I have 3.25 currently my mate has 3.5

will have a go this eve hopefully having to do a bit of work today..
 
It is not the steering wheel that needs to be straight but the steering arm from the box that needs to be set straight head. On some there is a slot in the arm into which a pin can be placed to match with slot in the box to keep it in position. Adjust drag link to get n/s wheel straight ahead then adjust track rod at the rear to get tracking right. If steering wheel is not where you like it remove and reposition. If you have pin at box remember to remove before driving.
 
tottot said:
It is not the steering wheel that needs to be straight but the steering arm from the box that needs to be set straight head. On some there is a slot in the arm into which a pin can be placed to match with slot in the box to keep it in position. Adjust drag link to get n/s wheel straight ahead then adjust track rod at the rear to get tracking right. If steering wheel is not where you like it remove and reposition. If you have pin at box remember to remove before driving.
Click to expand...
This one ^^
Look at the arm on the steering box and get that centered. if the wheel is out you can always remove and rotate on the column to straighten it. I had a garage use the wheel and after tracking the steering drop arm fouled on the steering guard becasye they had centered the wheel not the box.
 
I used 10mm studding and an M10 long nut, I made sure the wheel rims on the front wheels were the same length of the 10mm studding between the two wheels at the front and rear of the wheel.
I used this method on both the 90 and D2.

Cheers
 
Thanks all

used some string from the rear towbar down each side.to the front.

Got it set fairly straight and parallel.

Took it for a drive up the barn and back, loads better, removed the wheel and bolted it back on.

Only problem is that the wheel catches the radius arm on full lock left and not full lock right

So back on the ramp and tweaked the front bar a few turns now they both catch so fairly central..
Going to recheck tomorrow.

only want it somewhere near as going to get it tracked once MOT'd
 
Cavey_P38 said:
Thanks all

used some string from the rear towbar down each side.to the front.

Got it set fairly straight and parallel.

Took it for a drive up the barn and back, loads better, removed the wheel and bolted it back on.

Only problem is that the wheel catches the radius arm on full lock left and not full lock right

So back on the ramp and tweaked the front bar a few turns now they both catch so fairly central..
Going to recheck tomorrow.

only want it somewhere near as going to get it tracked once MOT'd
Click to expand...

My LHS wheel only just catches the radius arm, but the right hand doesn’t. It’s not the steering bars you should have adjusted, it should have been the lock stops.
 
Did consider that but it wasn't just touching it was well in contact and the o/s had loads of clearance.

It looked different to when i first fitted them and meddled with the tracking.

Sure my mate will sort them out when it's MOT'd
 
Tracking won’t affect that, unless it’s so far out the steering box runs out of travel. Lock stops as above. Tyres hitting the radius arm is also an MOT failure in theory.

To set the tracking properly from an unknown position I do this:
  1. Remove front steering bar (drag link)
  2. Center the steering box using alignment hole at rear of arm (note the arm will point slightly to driver’s side when centred)
  3. Place a tight string line around the centre of all four wheels
  4. Adjust rear steering bar (track rod) to set the front wheels dead parallel with one another. If your chassis and axles are straight and bushes are in good order you should have a straight line down both sides of the vehicle from the rear to the front tyres. Zero toe in/out.
  5. Re-fit the drag link, adjusting its length as necessary to fit between the fixed positions of the steering box arm and the nearside swivel arm.
  6. Finally, adjust the steering wheel position on the column if necessary.
All this assumes good condition tyres and chassis/axles straight as above. You could replace the string with a measured distance between front wheel rim leading and trailing edges, if you prefer. The key point is that you set the wheels dead ahead and parallel, and then link it up to the centered steering box.
 
Thanks @Retroanaconda

That is very helpful and comprehensive step by step instructions.
Did most of that at some point or other fitting the new drag link and track rod.

Will double check it though as it is on the ramp at the moment,
 
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