Mr Noisy

Coming in your ears.
Hi guys, i'm back :D

Started to devote a small portion of brain back to my land rover after a 3 month AWOL period!

Nothing is strictly speaking wrong with it AFAIK but i just feel that seeing as i've never comp tested it and the engine is the only thing i haven't done any serious work on i think i better get a better idea of it's health.

It runs well but was recently MOT'd and gave a CO reading of 1600ppm whereas the limit is 300ppm i think, so yes it's bloody rich.

AFM is checked and trim/output voltages all read nicely. Drove last saturday for around 50 miles and seemed to run very well and economically too, started on a quarter tank and needle barely moved.

So yeah i'm going to check the comp, service and re-seal the dizzy, fit new plugs again and check the ignition system over, fit another oil pressure switch to check out the 'oil pressure light at hot tickover' problem which is probably related to the pressure relief valve cos it jammed badly last time we went off roading and recondition the starter motor which has gone noisy.

any advice on the comp test appreciated, i will post up the results when ive completed the test.

cheers :)
 
Not the results I was hoping for chaps :(

I have drawn up a little diagram, hope you can see it clearly:

32114647.jpg


Worst result dry was 30 PSI, should be 170 minimum!!!

I'm guessing it's badly worn then because with oil the pressures increased significantly, but even with oil some were below spec.

If anyone can have a look at the results and help me out with advice it would be great.

Thanks, Sam.
 
That doesn't look to healthy I'm afraid. I would say it may need new rings and possibly a rebore. The difference between wet and dry is huge, it certainly doesn't say it is just head gasket and/or dodgy valve stem seals. Obviously a gasket problem wouldn't help but the difference is a bit too much. Don't know for the 3.5 but a 3.9 should get between 170 -180psi (9.35:1 CR) so your dry readings say there is a problem.
 
presumably you did it correctly as such a wide range of readings is surprising and how much oil did you put in but the beauty of a 3.5 is it can be rebored ,as yours will be worn
 
Hi guys

Yeah it's supposed to be 170.

I'm guessing I did it correctly, followed the instructions!

As for the oil, used a squirt of gear oil, probably about 25ml per cylinder. I think the super high wet readings may have got a little too much oil :(

Problems now though after another dizzy rebuild last night it runs lumpy as **** but doesn't seem to suggest an ignition misfire (have tested all sparks are good) and I have tried a wide range of ignition timings. It starts and runs no problem but it is lumpy and kinda vibrates the car. Going to triple check the ignition timing, but I can't help thinking it has suddenly lost compression in a big way.

I ran it after compression test and it was sweet, then after dizzy rebuild it is very unhappy. Seems clean cut ignition problem, but I can't find the issue.

Usually after dizzy work it won't start at all until I et the timing just right but this time its very odd.

Annoyed :(

As for the block, I'd just like to get it back to where it was yesterday and then think about reconditioning!
 
before and after dizzy rebuild might be a clue ,sometimes as stuff ages you compensate and keep it going but sooner or later you need a fresh start ,bores rings ,cam ,etc
 
Going to do the basics this afternoon, dizzy out again and reinstall, clean up plugs etc but failing that I'm fearing the worst.

Not the first time ie had the dizzy out though, but then again this June was the first time it has been 4 times over the emission limit for its mot, so obviously something has gone beserk.

Oh and one sniff of the exhaust gas and you're rolling around on the floor with burning nose and eyes :/
 
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let's face it chaps, the engine needs a strip down, it's just that i hardly use the car so i'd rather it just kept going! obviously not always possible but i reckon a rebuild will cost me £500 if i do most or all of the work myself.

only thing i cant do is the block work. do i just glazebust it and fit new rings or is the only sensible option to rebore it and fit oversize rings? can i keep the original pistons??
 
OK so back to square one, problem was misfire on 5 and 7.

New set of plugs (seems to like them every 6 months) and scraped out the dizzy cap to remove any residue, although i cleaned it out last night i had not brightened up the contacts.

so it runs again.

now i need to decide if and when to take on the major engine work...
 
you need to measure bores with a comparitor bore guage ,as they wear in a triangle shape on thrust side the greatest ,and if worn to a certain degree new rings wont sweep that area ,leaving just as poor as outcome as before ,ive seen it when ive bored blocks if you take out not quite enough to clear wear
 
Hi guys

thanks for the help.

JM i see where you're coming from, chances are its worn out of round because of it's age.

Dr Evil, yeah i was just thinking about getting a book today, good to read up before i get into it. Im quite excited to start the job but truly loathed at the same time, because its time and space and to an extent money that i havent got!

do you want to exchange the book for some beer tokens? :D
 
Haha well I'll be in Manchester in August but I don't think a Golf GT TDI will make it round the lanes ;)

Anyway I've sent it over to your email addy, enjoy :p
 

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