sierrafery
Well-Known Member
I recommend Dinitrol, rust converter first then the coating
Thanks! sierrafery. Dinitrol has a series of anti-rust products, Does this one meet the requirement? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144458718139? It seems it doesn't need coating for its primer
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Yes, this one is for the basic treatment when you've got rid of the vaxoil, it will convert the surface rust in a black layer which will act as primer then for the best result use a Dinitrol 4941 coating on it... then the MOT man can scratch the sh*t out of it cos it will find only metal
meego
Well-Known Member
If you do put new pipe on, and as advised above you should, use Kunifer pipe, not copper.
Appreciate your recommendations, I have considered new pipes, but rarely see new brake lines for sale. Instead I see some pipes to be used for brake lines on ebay, some includes tools, but the safety and reliability are my concerns. I see some info recommends copper-nickel pipe for flexibility. What should be considered to make brake pipes for the safety? How about this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285110928402?
Do all cars use same size of connectors?
Do all cars use same size of connectors?
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
I know nothing about how good they are but i like them so if i'll ever decide to replace my brake lines i'll go on my own risk for these https://www.prolinebraidedlines.com...aign&utm_source=google&variant=32696497111121
Palagius
Well-Known Member
My mot garage will make up a replacement line for self fitting for Β£10
meego
Well-Known Member
Iβm not sure that those are brake lines. They are more like the flexi pipes that are at the end of the pipe run to the callipers ?? The steel brake lines on D2βs corrode on the front just before they connect to the flex pipe, and along the chassis going to the rear brakes.
meego
Well-Known Member
That set is crap. As I said earlier, use Kunifer pipe. Pipe and fittings are 3/16β. And if your are going to do it yourself, get one of these.
Professional Brake Pipe Flaring Tool SAE Hand Held On Car Double Flare Kit 3/16" | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Professional Brake Pipe Flaring Tool SAE Hand Held On Car Double Flare Kit 3/16" at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.
www.ebay.co.uk
Not just tool, suitable connectors too, this one says fitting discovery td5 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274651530003? I have looked at some info, it seems to me the hard jobs are making good flares, then routing pipes to rear brakes. What flares are required to fit?That set is crap. As I said earlier, use Kunifer pipe. Pipe and fittings are 3/16β. And if your are going to do it yourself, get one of these.
Professional Brake Pipe Flaring Tool SAE Hand Held On Car Double Flare Kit 3/16" | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Professional Brake Pipe Flaring Tool SAE Hand Held On Car Double Flare Kit 3/16" at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.www.ebay.co.uk
Redone my Freelander 1 with that kit? Easy to do, took a weekendThat set is crap. As I said earlier, use Kunifer pipe. Pipe and fittings are 3/16β. And if your are going to do it yourself, get one of these.
Professional Brake Pipe Flaring Tool SAE Hand Held On Car Double Flare Kit 3/16" | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Professional Brake Pipe Flaring Tool SAE Hand Held On Car Double Flare Kit 3/16" at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.www.ebay.co.uk
Kev
Ps: 2 months later! Engine 'Said No!
' but the brake lines were still good 
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
The picture is generic but they are definitely brake lines as it's the 6 pack, the two short ones from modulator to master cylinder and the 4 different lenghts from modulator to each caliper's flex pipe... the flex pipe set has only 4 bits with banjo one side, like this https://www.lrdirect.com/da2414s-stainless-brake-hose-kit
meego
Well-Known Member
In that case I would consider those as well. I'll let you be the Guinea Pig though
meego
Well-Known Member
Itβs still copper pipe though. The copper binds to the steel fittings, and when you try and remove one to renew a caliper for example, it twists the pipe and you need to make another new one. Brass fittings are good, but expensive.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
In that case I would consider those as well. I'll let you be the Guinea Pig though
I'll definitely make a review if i fit them just that might not be very soon as my brake lines are in a quite good condition as i kept rust proofing the underside of my D2 since i bought it
meego
Well-Known Member
Might be me whoβs the Guinea Pig then
+1 to replacing the pipes. I bit the bullet and bought a hydraulic flare tool for about Β£100. Best bit of kit ever. Bought it so I could join onto a steel brake line, to save some time for an mot on the daughters car... Flares now a doddle. Also, if your going to start replacing lines, buy a selection of ends, joiners and a bending tool, plus a decent pipe cutting tool. Cunifer pipe on most runs, but a bit of copper for tight intricate bends, such as on callipers. Once you get your kit together, you will wonder why you never replaced them before.
NPG
Well-Known Member
My experience is not so good with any of these products - they only work great if you don't have rust to begin with. Then one day I think I was at Lidl and seen this zinc galvanising spray, so I said I'd try it. And I'm amazed at the results - I applied it on the exhaust pipes, silencers and the intercooler + power steering metal pipes which were all rusting and haven't seen any signs of corrosion for more than 3 years now. I plan to do the same on the rear chassis and the tow bar when I have a chance and then apply rust proofing compound on top of it.
