Big Phil

Active Member
We have had our 2004 Td5 auto a couple of months and thought I had it all sorted after throwing loads of money at it.
How wrong can you be?. Been out this morning for the Paper and I suspect a major fault may be about to occur. (Just to add, the disco auto box has been stunning in operation, a nice creep forward when in drive without use of the throttle, and really lovely hardly noticeable gear changes). But this morning when selecting drive it sort of clunked into D and the Disco sort of shook but no drive without having to rev the engine, gone was the creep forward so popped it back into N and tried again, same result. So off we went, drives lovely off the drive, but when it changed up it sort of clunked into 2. Out on the road and it reluctantly changes up sort of clunking into every gear. When in top gear it drives ok. But the fault appears when the box changes down also clunking at every change of gear.

Just read on the Ashcroft transmissions webby page they advise a heavy duty Torque Converter with a remapped Td5 engine like mine. Could the standard TC be at fault with my problem do you think.

Any ideas most appreciated Guys.
 
I had this and then a day later lost all drive.

Drop some Gearbox oil and have a look at it, should be red in colour. Mine came out black as night
 
Disaster has occurred. All drive gone and more dash lights on than Blackpool has on its illuminations.

It goes in on Monday for a suspected major fault in the auto box, and a faulty Torque converter. Price unknown until strip down is complete and faults assessed. I imagine it will be £ frightening. My quest now is finding a buddy with a trailer who can convey me and the Disco to the Auto Transmission specialist. At least I have 6 days to arrange it. What a pain in the butt. The only tiny bit of good news, it should make the Disco more saleable if I decide to move it on.
 
I expect the clutch packs have burned out.

I paid £900 for supply and fit of a used box from a local LR indie.

A local gearbox specialist quoted £1800 plus VAT for box removal, recondition, new TC and re fit etc
 
Expensive lessons. I always have autobx oil and filter changed every 25k miles.
I do miss the dipstick from ny old Disco 1 auto.
Haynes manual recommends every 25 k change.
 
Expensive lessons. I always have autobx oil and filter changed every 25k miles.
I do miss the dipstick from ny old Disco 1 auto.
Haynes
 
Expensive lessons. I always have autobx oil and filter changed every 25k miles.
I do miss the dipstick from ny old Disco 1 auto.
Haynes

Aye, but I have only had it a couple of months. I did look on this forum as to changing the auto box oil and filter. Some say change them regularly, some say don't. It's a pain as I had the diff oils, engine oil and both oil filters and the diesel filter changed. It wouldn't have taken much more cost to have changed the auto box oil and filter at the same time.
Regarding the lack of an auto box dipstick, I have to agree with you. Why would you not have a gear box dipstick on any car I wonder.
 
I had my disco 6 weeks before the auto box **** itself.

Mind you it had spend 200k towing a caravan from the south coast, to Scotland, and a mini digger every day when they weren’t on holiday.
 
changing the auto box oil and filter. Some say change them regularly, some say don't.
Dave Ashcroft discusses this (my underlining) on the Ashcroft website on a Q about 'sticks in first gear in the morning or when cold and is reluctant to change':

We have noticed many customers reporting this fault starting a few days after an oil and filter change and after researching this using our experience and the expertise of others in the trade we have come to the conclusion that as ATF oil is a detergent type oil, when the oil is changed this will dislodge and stir up settled debris in the autobox which in turn jams the governor valve. In light of this although it sounds controversial it is debateable if changing the oil and filter is a good idea, some say if the box it going to fail it will fail if the oil is good or bad and their advice is leave it alone. I am still undecided but the truth is I get a lot of calls from customers thinking they are looking after the autobox by servicing it and a few days later this fault occurs.


https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/frequently-asked-questions/4hp22-faq-s.html

Not the same as your problem but the oil/filter change issue is worth noting.
Having just had my 90 converted to auto (2nd hand RRC, Dr Tranny flush, oil and filter change, and new oil cooler and pipes) I want to know what's best to maintain it.
 
Dave Ashcroft discusses this (my underlining) on the Ashcroft website on a Q about 'sticks in first gear in the morning or when cold and is reluctant to change':

We have noticed many customers reporting this fault starting a few days after an oil and filter change and after researching this using our experience and the expertise of others in the trade we have come to the conclusion that as ATF oil is a detergent type oil, when the oil is changed this will dislodge and stir up settled debris in the autobox which in turn jams the governor valve. In light of this although it sounds controversial it is debateable if changing the oil and filter is a good idea, some say if the box it going to fail it will fail if the oil is good or bad and their advice is leave it alone. I am still undecided but the truth is I get a lot of calls from customers thinking they are looking after the autobox by servicing it and a few days later this fault occurs.

https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/frequently-asked-questions/4hp22-faq-s.html

Not the same as your problem but the oil/filter change issue is worth noting.
Having just had my 90 converted to auto (2nd hand RRC, Dr Tranny flush, oil and filter change, and new oil cooler and pipes) I want to know what's best to maintain it.
that was an issue with d1 and rrc boxes ,if oil had not been changed in years ,when it was the mechanical govenor in rear of box that created the gear changes would stick,d2 boxes dont have a mechanical govenor and do like regular oil changes
 
Thanks James for clearing that up.
So now my autobox is clean and refreshed, when if ever, should I think of changing the oil/filter? I don't tow, and only off road - green landing - a few times year. Annual mileage less than 2500.

BTW re the hi-lo problem you responded to yesterday, with the engine off I rocked it to and fro in N and tried selecting Hi and it seemed to go in, then tied the lever to hold it in place. A short drive forwards and reverse was ok but not enough for it to change up - when it usually pops out -and I didn't up venture onto the road for fear of it clanking out! I did 150 odd miles in high with no issue, knocking it into neutral started this off.....?

A friend is popping by tomorrow to lend a hand, says it's straightforward but fiddly (assuming linkage adjustment is the problem).
 
Thanks James for clearing that up.
So now my autobox is clean and refreshed, when if ever, should I think of changing the oil/filter? I don't tow, and only off road - green landing - a few times year. Annual mileage less than 2500.

BTW re the hi-lo problem you responded to yesterday, with the engine off I rocked it to and fro in N and tried selecting Hi and it seemed to go in, then tied the lever to hold it in place. A short drive forwards and reverse was ok but not enough for it to change up - when it usually pops out -and I didn't up venture onto the road for fear of it clanking out! I did 150 odd miles in high with no issue, knocking it into neutral started this off.....?

A friend is popping by tomorrow to lend a hand, says it's straightforward but fiddly (assuming linkage adjustment is the problem).
a normal 4.5 litre change every couple of years if it were me i change mine once a year but it does more miles, the hi/lo linkage has a weak point that bends were you adjust the 2 nuts,if it was just barely fully going in to hi it doesnt take much for that then to become not possible fully
 

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