OneTwo

New Member
Evening all,

Recently bought a D2 which had the rear ACE pipes replaced with hydraulic hoses for the MOT, with about a foot of the old pipe remaining at the valve block end. These remnants of old pipe are now leaking, so the plan is to switch to conventional ARBs. I saw a thread on here where a member spoke of blocking off the rear pipes at the valve block as a temporary measure, but didn't say how.

Would winding a couple of bolts into the seals work, the same way you do to remove the seals? Maybe with a bit of PTFE tape? The seals are new, replaced them today because we thought that was what was leaking, but typically, it wasn't.

If not, any suggestions as to what else I can use to tide me over until the weekend?

Thanks in advance!
 
If that's your plan to spend more than 300 GBP to downgrade the vehicle rather than max 50 to fix the pipes it's your choice... remove the relay and then the fluid will be recirculated between the block and tank as to loose only what's in the ram otherwise blank them as you wish just be aware that there can be up to 140 bar pressure with relay in situ.
 
Evening all,

Recently bought a D2 which had the rear ACE pipes replaced with hydraulic hoses for the MOT, with about a foot of the old pipe remaining at the valve block end. These remnants of old pipe are now leaking, so the plan is to switch to conventional ARBs. I saw a thread on here where a member spoke of blocking off the rear pipes at the valve block as a temporary measure, but didn't say how.

Would winding a couple of bolts into the seals work, the same way you do to remove the seals? Maybe with a bit of PTFE tape? The seals are new, replaced them today because we thought that was what was leaking, but typically, it wasn't.

If not, any suggestions as to what else I can use to tide me over until the weekend?

Thanks in advance!
If you've only got a foot of pipe left and the rest is hose, why not do what many have done and get the valve block drilled and tapped to take hydraulic fittings and then get short lengths of hydraulic hose made up to join up to the existing hoses? Many are doing it. There are detailed instructions on the d2bc forum. Much cheaper and retains the ACE system which is good when it works properly. Otherwise short term as Fery says. I have a spare valve block I am about to get drilled and tapped for my use.

Tony
 
Sorry, I wasn't clear - I've got a non-ACE donor car available so the swap would barely cost anything.

To clarify, removing the ACE relay would be a viable temporary solution until I can sort it out properly, or would I still need to plug the valve block? (I'd like to know more about the £50 fix, is this what Hellastony referred to with having the valve block tapped etc.?)

Thanks
 
Not sure where Fery got his figure of £50 from, best to ask him, but to drill the valve block I believe is about £80, I am told by others, although this does seem a lot of money for a bit of milling and drilling....I will be finding out myself when I get it done.........

In the meantime you might be better, in view of where you say it is leaking, to get a spare length of hose and feed the outlet from the ACE pump back into the return port on the reservoir. This way although the pump is working, the pressure is going back to the reservoir not to the block which is leaking.
 
Not sure where Fery got his figure of £50 from, best to ask him, but to drill the valve block I believe is about £80, I am told by others, although this does seem a lot of money for a bit of milling and drilling....I will be finding out myself when I get it done.........

In the meantime you might be better, in view of where you say it is leaking, to get a spare length of hose and feed the outlet from the ACE pump back into the return port on the reservoir. This way although the pump is working, the pressure is going back to the reservoir not to the block which is leaking.

I paid £10 per hole but was a pain as it was not their usual business.
 

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