Peter A Arnolod

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  1. Peter A Arnolod New Member
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  7. Bromsgrove B60
  8. Ok, let's try. Many years ago I rebuilt and uprated a 1972 Series 111 Safari. I fitted dual line brakes and to do so I fitted complete master cylinder, housing and pedal. The whole unit is in your hand after a few bolts on the bulkhead. I had the unit of a long wheelbase series but that had been considerably modified by others before it was smashed so I am not sure of the unit's origin. The result was that the brake pedal was a little lower than the clutch pedal. Not noticeable when driving and it has been fine for years. If I can I will try and put a photo to this.
    But my problem has appeared many years later. I am now probably older than most of your Dads and in getting to this age I have got bigger and stiffer and my problem is that I have difficulty in raising my foot to the clutch pedal. I have no problem with the brake pedal I fitted, it is the original clutch that is the problem. The difference between them is very small and a new driver never notices it but it is becoming a very serious to me.
    I am convinced that if I could get hold of a clutch pedal unit to match the brake pedal unit I wouldn't have a problem. The original pedal dropped 8.5 inches from the bulkhead, was on a "u" section shaft with a single return spring. The pedal was 3"x3.5" inches with horizontal grip in the pad. To match the existing brake pedal I need a clutch pedal that drops 9.5 inches and is mounted on a flat piece of steel mounted on edge and fitted with a return spring each side. The pedal is about 3inches square with vertical grip in the pad.
    I will try the photo with this but if anyone can identify exactly what I need I will be very much obliged and even better if anyone has one consider it sold.
    If you have got this far thanks for staying with me. I've got the photos on and am feeling very pleased with myself.
    Cheers Peter
    wp_20170415_13_15_38_pro-jpg.121462

    wp_20170415_13_15_09_pro-jpg.121463


  9. Peter A Arnolod, 17 minutes ago Edit Report
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  11. neilly Well-Known Member
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    Hi Peter,

    Now we know what vehicle you are asking about. A nice sounding old girl, Got any pics of the outside? we like piccies....

    You may be better served posting in the Series section. As there may be someone who has the answer you need in there.
    https://www.landyzone.co.uk/forum/series-land-rovers.6/
    Copy your post above and post a new thread in the section that the link above will take you to.
 
Right then, so I read your post in the introduce yourself thread, and I thought - the master cylinder pushrods are adjustable.... and then I drag myself over here to see that our inimitable Mr Martin has already mentioned this....:rolleyes:... :D

Is the problem just the difference in levels of the pedal pads - or do you want to change the type/structure of the clutch pedal too?

If reducing the effort of the clutch would help, then a search through my drivel will find you this post about servo assisting the clutch.....

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/servo-assisting-the-clutch-300tdi-r380.301335/

:)
 
I think your problem would be solved by fitting a Defender clutch pedal box as I did to my last series, the pedal is angled in a more closer position and is a straight swap as the fitments 6x bolts holding the pedal box in and that's it and the clutch master cylinder fits egzackly the same as it does on a series pedal box, hope this helps
 
Before you go leaping in changing things, have you checked the clutch peddle height which is adjustable ? From my memory of when I had a series three it is 5.5" or 140mm in new money from the floor. Locknut and screw a bit like a tappet and you may get away with pinching a bit out of spec to help you.
 
Brake pedal looks like a 90/110 unit.The clutch unit on a series and later 90/110 is much the same. As well as adjusting on the master cylinder rod you could remove the hard rubber grip block [they were not much good anyway] and make the pedal half an inch lower to start.
 

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