Bagshot · Jan 31, 2019

Hi, looking to do some minor bodywork paint repairs. After rubbing down and prepping, has anyone come across a decent corrosion treatment for the white oxidation that occurs on the P38 body skin.
Used Jenolite on steel in the past, but this might not work the same on here..

Henry_b · Jan 31, 2019

Rub it back to solid/shiny material and use a good etch primer, that should stop the corrosion dead in its tracks.

"edit"

Datatek · Feb 1, 2019

Henry_b said:
Rub it back to solid/shiny material and use a good Zinc and/or etch primer, that should stop the corrosion dead in its tracks.

Zinc on alloy? I think not.

wammers · Feb 1, 2019

Rub down to bright metal, wash with solvent, coat with etch primer immediately or within half an hour at the most.

Grrrrrr · Feb 1, 2019

Bagshot said:
Hi, looking to do some minor bodywork paint repairs. After rubbing down and prepping, has anyone come across a decent corrosion treatment for the white oxidation that occurs on the P38 body skin.
Used Jenolite on steel in the past, but this might not work the same on here..

You need to find where the attached steel is oxidising. Insulate the ally from the steel and protect the steel. I have wondered about that aquasteel and whether I could get it down the chassis legs. My chassis is just starting to show surface rust on the outside and ideally I'd like to stop it in its tracks.

Bagshot · Feb 1, 2019

Datatek said:
Zinc on alloy? I think not.

This is the problem. I haven't found anything that directly relates to chemically treating these "Ally" skins. Sounds like down to shiny metal and etch primer as suggested here and 'Wammers'..

wammers · Feb 1, 2019

Bagshot said:
This is the problem. I haven't found anything that directly relates to chemically treating these "Ally" skins. Sounds like down to shiny metal and etch primer as suggested here and 'Wammers'..

Look up Alodine but it's nasty stuff. Used in the aircraft industry amongst others. A good etch primer should do the job. As long as it is applied before an oxidised layer reforms after cleaning.

Old diver · Feb 1, 2019

We used to use a thing called yellow chromate in the navy. Very easy to apply to clean aluminium, used to etch and protect. Stood up to lots of seawater.

Bagshot · Feb 1, 2019

wammers said:
Look up Alodine but it's nasty stuff. Used in the aircraft industry amongst others. A good etch primer should do the job. As long as it is applied before an oxidised layer reforms after cleaning.

Hi,
Looks like Alodine is only available across the pond. Some in US some, in Canada. Keeping on looking but may just have to go for a good prep and etch primer as you suggested.

frog hopper · Feb 1, 2019

+ 1 on the oxidation, top notch pointy head I worked for showed me aluminium starting to form oxides within a couple of minutes of being cut, can't see it with the naked eye until about half an hour or so.
Cure the cause of it and then clean back to fresh and etch prime ASAP.

norseman · May 16, 2022

Sorry, just realised the age of this post

Will post current.

Mark Piercy · May 17, 2022

norseman said:
Silly question no doubt, but when you say etch asap after wash-down I assume the surface needs to be dry though ?

Bagshot

Well-Known Member

Henry_b

Think outside, no box required.

Datatek

Well-Known Member

wammers

No longer with us, RIP

Grrrrrr

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd

Bagshot

Well-Known Member

wammers

No longer with us, RIP

Old diver

Well-Known Member

Bagshot

Well-Known Member

frog hopper

Well-Known Member

norseman

Well-Known Member

Mark Piercy

Well fumbled member....

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