I have seen a few Landies fitted with a power steering system, would like to do it myself. But as I understand from what I have seen you have to take out the whole steering box, add a new shaft to your power steering system and some more work....but hey, what do one expect of series work...Its possible and really worth the effort, good luck!
Sri lankan
New Member
These may help:
http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/PowerSteering.htm
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/mitsubishi-l200-warrior-power-steering-box_W0QQitemZ4606143513QQcategoryZ10400QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
A friend is doing a conversion. he is hunting for parts. shall revert with more info.
I had a look and to me there are two approaches:
1. Remove the existing box and relay, locate a suitable powered box near the relay (bolted or welded/bracketed to the chassis), connect the drop arm to the drag link. connect the column to the box via U jointed shafts to clear the wheel arch. You will have to relocate the battery tray and the air cleaner.
2. Remove the existing box and replace with the powered box, modify and/or fabricate link to the relay. You can leave the battery tray and air cleaner where they are.
Either way there is a fair amount of cutting/chopping and customised parts.
A word of caution, check box for the correct rotation ie. when you turn the box input shaft clockwise, the drop arm should turn left to right. Else you will end up with a setup where to turn right the wheel has to be turned left !!!
Good luck
http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/PowerSteering.htm
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/mitsubishi-l200-warrior-power-steering-box_W0QQitemZ4606143513QQcategoryZ10400QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
A friend is doing a conversion. he is hunting for parts. shall revert with more info.
I had a look and to me there are two approaches:
1. Remove the existing box and relay, locate a suitable powered box near the relay (bolted or welded/bracketed to the chassis), connect the drop arm to the drag link. connect the column to the box via U jointed shafts to clear the wheel arch. You will have to relocate the battery tray and the air cleaner.
2. Remove the existing box and replace with the powered box, modify and/or fabricate link to the relay. You can leave the battery tray and air cleaner where they are.
Either way there is a fair amount of cutting/chopping and customised parts.
A word of caution, check box for the correct rotation ie. when you turn the box input shaft clockwise, the drop arm should turn left to right. Else you will end up with a setup where to turn right the wheel has to be turned left !!!
Good luck
I did this a few months ago here in Australia using a Nissan MQ Patrol box and column. The pump and other bits were fabricated to suit my engine etc. and don't necessarily have to be the same make.
I obtained a Ford F100 tie rod end and got a left hand thread turned on it to replace the LR tie rod end giving the reqired 85mm extra length and a little judicial heating and bending this item gives the correct angle to match the new box pitman arm.
I found it astonishing that I ccould use everything from the steering wheel to the box from the Nissan after removing all the LR bits and it just bolted straight in, turns the right way and makes life easy.
Of course you will need to fabricate a couple of brackets and mounting plates and drill appropriate holes through the chassis as well as reinforcing the same. I'm no welder or machinist but didn't find it too difficult, it is just a matter of applying thought to the whole process.
Pity it doesn't tighten the turning circle but at least I can easily make a couple of attempts now.
If anyone wants some pics let me know but it might take a few days to organise.
I obtained a Ford F100 tie rod end and got a left hand thread turned on it to replace the LR tie rod end giving the reqired 85mm extra length and a little judicial heating and bending this item gives the correct angle to match the new box pitman arm.
I found it astonishing that I ccould use everything from the steering wheel to the box from the Nissan after removing all the LR bits and it just bolted straight in, turns the right way and makes life easy.
Of course you will need to fabricate a couple of brackets and mounting plates and drill appropriate holes through the chassis as well as reinforcing the same. I'm no welder or machinist but didn't find it too difficult, it is just a matter of applying thought to the whole process.
Pity it doesn't tighten the turning circle but at least I can easily make a couple of attempts now.
If anyone wants some pics let me know but it might take a few days to organise.
Sri lankan
New Member
John
Is yours a LHD or RHD ?
Pics will certainly help. can you forward a few ?
Is yours a LHD or RHD ?
Pics will certainly help. can you forward a few ?
Manamendra
New Member
John,
I'd be interested in seeing those pics too. I was planning to use the PS box from a Toyota to do the mod but it sounds like the Nissan bits that you used are a straighter fit.
Thanks,
Simon
I'd be interested in seeing those pics too. I was planning to use the PS box from a Toyota to do the mod but it sounds like the Nissan bits that you used are a straighter fit.
Thanks,
Simon
Sri lankan
New Member
John
Is the Nissan the 3.3 litre six cylinder or the later 4.2 l ?
Is the Nissan the 3.3 litre six cylinder or the later 4.2 l ?
More info on the Nissans:
Nissan Patrol MQ’s came out with 3 different engine combinations – SD33 which was a six cylinder diesel, next
was the P40 which was a four litre 6 cylinder petrol and finally the L28 with a six cylinder 2.8 litre petrol possibly
the most common of the three vehicles sold in Australia.
Pictures of power steering under way now.
Nissan Patrol MQ’s came out with 3 different engine combinations – SD33 which was a six cylinder diesel, next
was the P40 which was a four litre 6 cylinder petrol and finally the L28 with a six cylinder 2.8 litre petrol possibly
the most common of the three vehicles sold in Australia.
Pictures of power steering under way now.
Hope it works this time. If anyone has any further questions don't hesitate to ask and please feel free to pass this info on to everyone else who wants to stop the arm wrestle just to park the beast.
Image 1; Shows the original LR firewall bracket with the Nissan column through it.
Image 2: Shows the LR steering box bracket with the fabricated brackets bolted on to fit the suitably flattened bottom of the Nissan column.
Image 3: Shows the box with the rubber coupling between the shaft and the box. This could have been angled just a littl higher to allow a better self-centering action but it's no big deal at all. Also visible behind is the bottom radiator hose from the 202 Holden.
Image 4: Shows the shaft running outside the inner guard which has been butchered a bit and not finished with a rubber flap yet. You can also see an upright brace to the right which is a sutably bent brace for the battery box to take it up a bit to allow the radiator hose to fit properly.
Image 5: Shows, from the front, the box, tie rod end and shaft . You can see a couple of the 4 box mounting bolts which are tapped into the 1/2" mounting plate. This has then been welded on to the frame and a couple of extra safety bolts put right through the chassis with plates on the other side.
Image 6: From under the front shows the box pitman arm and the F100 tie rod end with the extra length required and also one of the through chassis safety bolts and plates. The hole for the old relay is visible, good thing gone.
Image 7: Is just to show the pump and belt tensioners I made up to suit the 202 Holden. This is off some Japanese unit but it doesn't really matter. You can also see the electric fans from an AU Falcon on the Rover V8 radiator which has been moved forward about 150mm. The whole support and breakfast was moved and a self moulded alloy checkerplate nose added to the existing bonnet to cover it all on the outside.
Image 8: Just the Nissan steering wheel inside, I'll change the logo to Land Rover when I can figure out how to make one in clear plastic to fit. Not visible near the heater controls between the dash and the door is a 4-way flasher switch from an XF Falcon which brings Old yella into line with modern signalling requirements.
Image 9: Shows the mods made to the LR turn signal self-cancelling doodah. A pretty drastic chop to it but it screwed on neatly and works like a bought one. You can also see the alloy checkerplate tops to the mudgaurds which incorporate a lockable toolbox in each side. The relay bank is also there and after a complete rewire they control all the electrics with as much current as required without risk of melting wires or switches. Must finish that one day.
Image 1; Shows the original LR firewall bracket with the Nissan column through it.
Image 2: Shows the LR steering box bracket with the fabricated brackets bolted on to fit the suitably flattened bottom of the Nissan column.
Image 3: Shows the box with the rubber coupling between the shaft and the box. This could have been angled just a littl higher to allow a better self-centering action but it's no big deal at all. Also visible behind is the bottom radiator hose from the 202 Holden.
Image 4: Shows the shaft running outside the inner guard which has been butchered a bit and not finished with a rubber flap yet. You can also see an upright brace to the right which is a sutably bent brace for the battery box to take it up a bit to allow the radiator hose to fit properly.
Image 5: Shows, from the front, the box, tie rod end and shaft . You can see a couple of the 4 box mounting bolts which are tapped into the 1/2" mounting plate. This has then been welded on to the frame and a couple of extra safety bolts put right through the chassis with plates on the other side.
Image 6: From under the front shows the box pitman arm and the F100 tie rod end with the extra length required and also one of the through chassis safety bolts and plates. The hole for the old relay is visible, good thing gone.
Image 7: Is just to show the pump and belt tensioners I made up to suit the 202 Holden. This is off some Japanese unit but it doesn't really matter. You can also see the electric fans from an AU Falcon on the Rover V8 radiator which has been moved forward about 150mm. The whole support and breakfast was moved and a self moulded alloy checkerplate nose added to the existing bonnet to cover it all on the outside.
Image 8: Just the Nissan steering wheel inside, I'll change the logo to Land Rover when I can figure out how to make one in clear plastic to fit. Not visible near the heater controls between the dash and the door is a 4-way flasher switch from an XF Falcon which brings Old yella into line with modern signalling requirements.
Image 9: Shows the mods made to the LR turn signal self-cancelling doodah. A pretty drastic chop to it but it screwed on neatly and works like a bought one. You can also see the alloy checkerplate tops to the mudgaurds which incorporate a lockable toolbox in each side. The relay bank is also there and after a complete rewire they control all the electrics with as much current as required without risk of melting wires or switches. Must finish that one day.
Attachments
Manamendra
New Member
Thanks John, great job. I've seen something similiar on the net where the guy had used the PS box from a FJ60 Cruiser. The mod I plan is somewhat different and I hope it turns out well.
Simon
Simon
Sri lankan
New Member
Many thanks, John
Gone to a lot of time and effort.
Happy Land Rovering.
Gone to a lot of time and effort.
Happy Land Rovering.
Gareth Coe
New Member
Eat More Spinach!
