Johndisco2

Member
me again! I've got a disco 2 marking it's territory which is fine by me but it's starting to cost in fluids! So before I go crazy justvwondered what's considered best, to repair the leak ( block dribbling like a Labrador outside a butchers) looks like a pipe joint to block I could be wrong, or should I get the conversion done to standard roll bars? Gets used for day to day and general off road fun, and would I even notice the difference? Thinking I'd rather the conversion just to keep things simple.
 
Oh, the age old question......

I do not have ACE, and do not feel the need to have. However @MJI is currently refitting it and may know a cheap way for you to fix yours.

Cheers
 
Easiest way is to get a spare block, the pipes made up then swap them all over and sell your old block

I have been caught by too thin pipes though and also two models of ACE block.
 
Cost against convenience.

Two of our three are converted to solid ARB's, the third was built from new with them.

Never really noticed the difference, but I guess some forms of driving may accentuate the benefits.

Peter
 
Working ACE is fantastic and will transform a D2. Standard ARB's work sufficiently, but aren't a patch on ACE and are completely different to drive.

I'd go as far to say, there is a bigger difference between ACE and steel ARB's than there is from driving Fiesta vs a Disco.
 
Never really noticed the difference, but I guess some forms of driving may accentuate the benefits.

Peter
Any bend, corner or round about if you are in a gear higher than 1st.

For example, my p38a rides and handles lovely. Air suspension, good handling and more than up to the task ARB's. However it's like a rolly polly blancmange compared to a working ACE system on a D2.

Seriously ACE is one of the most strikingly noticeable things I've ever experienced on any car ever. Without a word of a lie, a D2 with ACE will lean less than my X-Type Jaguar does. And you can really feel it working, just turn in a little harder on a corner or big round about and you can feel the inertia wants to push you to the side, rather than roll. But the suspension remains compliant and working.
 
from LR

8 ACE Ram washers, 4 ACE ram nuts

From Ebay or Heathy a valve block

From a local engineer to you 6 holes machined out to 1/4" BSP parallel and at least 25mm wide counterbored with flat bottom

4 hoses
14mm banjo
1/4" BSP pipe
1/4" BSP male
Swivel 1/4" BSP
Dowty washer 1/4" BSP
1/4" BSP female to male to fit block
Dowty washer 1/4" BSP

1 around 1850mm rear top/front
1 around 1800mm rear bottom/back
2 around 2000mm front pair

Worst case a small extension can be made

2 hoses
Compression onto 3/8"
3/8" BSP pipe
1/4" BSP male
Swivel 1/4" BSP
Dowty washer 1/4" BSP
1/4" BSP female to male to fit block
Dowty washer 1/4" BSP

Both around 950mm

2 litres of CCF
 

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