Andy Warren

Andy Warren

Well-Known Member
Full Member
Hi all, as a father's day present my D2 gave me a leak in pipe A (to the ACE rear actuator :rolleyes:). Looking at it I might as well replace pipes A & B whilst I'm there. Am I going to need anything else (collets, seals etc) ?
As ever any advice always appreciated.
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Oh dear, feel your pain mate.
What a pain in the ACE.:(:(:(
TBH they do look well shot.
god knows what they'll cost new.
some make do with ornery pipe and have the block reworked to take threaded bits.
It's enough to make you remove the whole system and just live with ornery roll bars. which i think is what I would do.
On my D1, to slow/stop the roll I just fitted gaz shocks it made all the diff.
 
Hi Stan, "pain in the ACE" like it:).
To be fair judging by the conditions of the nuts & bolts it should come apart OK. BP do pipes for about £240 :eek: I just wondered what other bits I need.
I have seen the threads about drilling & threading the block to take hydraulic fittings but I didn't want to do the 'whole' system as the fronts are in better nick so I'll do the rears & keep my fingers crossed :). All the best.
 
I replaced my rear ace pipes with hydraulic hoses made up by a local company. 14mm banjo one end 1.2m of hoses rated to 330 bar then a 3/8 compression fitting the other end. I cut the steel pipe at the valve block leaving enough pipe to get the compression fitting on. been like it for two years now no problems cost 75 pounds. Now going to do the fronts the same.
 
As SF says the pipes are a bit too far gone to do a repair like that but I would have certainly done it if I could save myself over £200.
Many thanks for the replies.
 
Andy Warren said:
As SF says the pipes are a bit too far gone to do a repair like that but I would have certainly done it if I could save myself over £200.
Many thanks for the replies.
Click to expand...
It may be worth your while to take the pipes off, with their fittings and take them to a tube and fittings company. They could take your fittings off, put them on new pipe, match the flared ends and bob's your aunty. They should also bend the pipes to match the originals.
In the kit car world we do a lot of this sort of thing to get brake pipe, fuel pipe etc go right. Usually cheaper than buying in the ready made ones. I could give you the name of a good company near me in Poole but then I don't think you'd go all that way!
 
Have a chat with a local machine shop about getting the valve block machined to take 3/8 thread then you can have hydraulic hoses made.
A bloke on eBay was selling valve blocks with hoses already done but its not cheap.
 
Hi all, I've ordered the pipes,collets,seals to valve block & the 4 washers for the banjo bolts on the actuator, £244.37 delivered :eek: & another job to be added to the list of jobs on the cars,I just got a 2009 Mazda 2 1.4 D which I want to service inc. cam belt/water pump kit & also needs injector seals doing as it's filling the cabin with fumes:rolleyes:. Then SHMBO, Mitsubishi Lancer service & sort out which part of the exhaust is rattling, good job the FL1 is going ok having just done lots to that. What's that saying about a woman's work is never done ! Thanks to everyone again & I'll keep you posted on how it goes.
 
Concentrate to connect the new pipes as the originals were connected at the valve block cos it's easy to fit them wrong there and the actuator will work the other way around while the system will not know as the fluid is still circulating then you'll feel like in a small boat on a wavy ocean... happened to me
 
I certainly like the idea of a machined block and hydraulic hoses. But when mine leaked I had a few goes at the collets and seals before I gave up and done away with the ACE, fitted the pulley and locked up the rams. It’s been like that for quite a few years now with no noticeable difference.
 
sierrafery said:
Concentrate to connect the new pipes as the originals were connected at the valve block cos it's easy to fit them wrong there and the actuator will work the other way around while the system will not know as the fluid is still circulating then you'll feel like in a small boat on a wavy ocean... happened to me
Click to expand...
Hi, I know the retaining plate on the valve block has A & B markings so I'll paint (or stamp) A & B on the actuator before I strip it down.
The parts arrived today & I'd forgotten to order the two seals for the pipes:mad: so I've ordered them today ready for the weekend.
 
Hi all, received the seals today one genuine the other pattern.
The genuine one came with an extra plastic washer in.
My questions are
1. Anyone know where the washer goes ?
2. Do you have to unbolt the ARB ?
3. Am I reading it correctly that once I've screwed the 10mm bolt in & inserted the seal I then break the bit off with the bolt in it by just pulling downon the bolt ?
W/S manual not much help for fitting the seals.
See pics. Was hoping to make it to Billing LR show tomorrow but unless I get these pipes fitted I won't be going anywhere:(. Thanks in advance.
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Sorry just realised the washer had fallen off the genuine seal & I don’t pull down on the bolt after fitting seal (not sure why they show an arrow pointing down in the top pic in instructions) but extract the whole plastic 'fitting tool'. What a plank o_O.
 
Last edited:
Managed to make a start this lunchtime on removing the ACE pipes, so far so good (the bent bolt ! in the rearmost pipe(s) clamp took about 10 mins to get out) cleaned around pipe/valve block before trying to remove the pipes. I've tried using pliers & they twist in the seals but I can't pull them out so :-
Has anyone got any tips for getting the pipes out please ? or is it like the teachers used to tell me at school "must try harder" :):), any advice as always is much appreciated.
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I couldnt do it even on the bench but as i was doing a hyd conversion i just drilled them out. They were well and truly corroded in.
 
Hi, I thought it might come to a fight but had a quick go tonight with a large flat bladed screwdriver & the pipes came out really easy:) so just got to get the seals out & disconnect the banjo unions from the actuator.
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