RangerSi

Member
No doubt this has been asked, but I had a quick search and got nothing......

So, I bought my 99 Disco 2 with a few issues. Mostly down to neglect. I'm working my way through the problems and now I'm at this stage.

I'm pretty sure I've got the 3 amigos. The ABS light is non existent in my binnacle and it looks like there has been some 'tampering' as the high beam symbol has the bottom corners covered like there is something in the way. My guess is there's tape over it. The Traction Control and Hill Decent lights light up, go off with the others and the come on and stay on. But! The actual bulbs look like they've dropped down below the symbol. More tampering me thinks.

I've not plugged it in anywhere yet, partly because I'm scared lol and partly because everything seems to work. EXCEPT at low speeds the ABS kicks in when I brake. Not all the time though, but it does it on any surface. (I've driven mostly on tarmac so far) I've given her new discs and pads all round, so what do I do now? New ABS sensors? New reluctor rings (can you get new rings?)

She starts and runs and drives lovely. I want new tyres, but I think I should sort out this issue next. Money is tight and I can't afford a nanocom/hawkeye, but then, I wouldn't know how to use it to be honest. So what do you guys think I should do next?

Oh and it's MOT time on the 17th

Cheers Si
 
Hi Si,


Unfortunately , taping over the warning lights is not a new thing.

Basically you need to get it on diagnostics to help identify the issue, other wise you are going to be spending money on stuff that may ne perfectly good.

If it is a hub then cheap ones go for 50 notes but some of them do not have the correct number of teeth. So be careful where you buy.

It could be the shuttle , in which case a cheap mod could fix it. But I would not expect this to cause your ABS kicking in issue.

Cheers
 
No doubt this has been asked, but I had a quick search and got nothing......

So, I bought my 99 Disco 2 with a few issues. Mostly down to neglect. I'm working my way through the problems and now I'm at this stage.

I'm pretty sure I've got the 3 amigos. The ABS light is non existent in my binnacle and it looks like there has been some 'tampering' as the high beam symbol has the bottom corners covered like there is something in the way. My guess is there's tape over it. The Traction Control and Hill Decent lights light up, go off with the others and the come on and stay on. But! The actual bulbs look like they've dropped down below the symbol. More tampering me thinks.

I've not plugged it in anywhere yet, partly because I'm scared lol and partly because everything seems to work. EXCEPT at low speeds the ABS kicks in when I brake. Not all the time though, but it does it on any surface. (I've driven mostly on tarmac so far) I've given her new discs and pads all round, so what do I do now? New ABS sensors? New reluctor rings (can you get new rings?)

She starts and runs and drives lovely. I want new tyres, but I think I should sort out this issue next. Money is tight and I can't afford a nanocom/hawkeye, but then, I wouldn't know how to use it to be honest. So what do you guys think I should do next?

Oh and it's MOT time on the 17th

Cheers Si
Can't speak for the nanocom, but the Hawkeye is dead easy to operate, even I can manage! Especially since most of what you'll need to do is just read DTCs and clear them, you only need a few brain cells to do that on a Hawkeye :p mine had a few issues to neglect and I couldn't be without the Hawkeye, have you looked at second hand units? Mine was 150 :)
 
As @neilly has said, the only way to find out definitively what's happening is to get the codes read. "Poke and hope" is not the best or cheapest way to go. There are probably historic codes stored too which will need to be cleared before you do any real troubleshooting.
Sorting out the dashboard lights will help you to keep an eye on things, they are there for a purpose.
Bear in mind that some of the lights must light up during the self test sequence and they must also go off again at the end of the sequence. This operation is part of the MoT test.
 
I had this changed the hub and stayed off for about a year it is now back on abs kicks in when I am moving off on left hand lock on steering I have changed sensor a couple of times but no joy I am now convinced hub has gone faulty again so I am going to change the hub again I have reset abs quite a few times and it comes back on on left lock only.
 
I had this changed the hub and stayed off for about a year it is now back on abs kicks in when I am moving off on left hand lock on steering I have changed sensor a couple of times but no joy I am now convinced hub has gone faulty again so I am going to change the hub again I have reset abs quite a few times and it comes back on on left lock only.

You say that you've changed "the hub", which one would that be? Remember there's another three, as yet untouched by the sound of it.
You also say that you've reset the ABS quite a few times. Resetting doesn't fix the underlying problem, and the ABS light indicating a fault is an MoT fail. What code reader did you use to "reset" the ABS? Can you not use the code reader to diagnose the trouble and which hub it's on, if it is a hub?
 
Resetting doesn't fix faults but I had to change rear hub in past it took about 3 resets to stop fault recurring. Not came back since but I have my own diagnostics which if you are a landy owner is essential so I know it's the same huband fault only happens when steering disco so hub is more likely.
 
Resetting doesn't fix faults but I had to change rear hub in past it took about 3 resets to stop fault recurring. Not came back since but I have my own diagnostics which if you are a landy owner is essential so I know it's the same huband fault only happens when steering disco so hub is more likely.

Yes, I do know about diagnostics, I have a Nanocom. It's slightly unusual that a hub should fail in such a manner, throwing an ABS fault only on a left hand lock. From what I understand of the ABS system, each wheel sends an alternating current signal to the SLABS ECU, the frequency of which is relative to the speed of each respective wheel. For the frequency from one particular wheel to be that far out so as to cause a fault indication, there might be a few reasons. Obviously a sensor fault could do it, but you've already changed that a number of times. The next item on the list might be from what I've heard, some cheaper hubs have a different number of segments on the reluctor ring, but that should throw a fault at any speed irrespective of wheel lock.
I suppose you could look at the live speed data from the hubs to get an indication of what's going on, but it does look like another hub change.
 

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