Dopey
Well-Known Member
Anyone??
I think my A/C is fubar its 1 of 2 things run out of gas (done it 3 year ago) wouldn't have run out already im sure, the only way round that is Kwikfit
The Blurb:
Let Kwik Fit recharge your Air Con while-u-wait for only £44.95. We will replace and recharge lubricant and refrigerant levels in line with your manufacturer’s recommendation. If we cannot improve the coolest vent temperature from your car by more than 10% - then you pay nothing at all.* (Note the * lol)
Or it the compressor, the cheapest i can find new is around £350 but i am trying to find someone who will just sell parts, im guessing its the bearings? thats fubar, some time back 2 months ish ago, i put a mechanics stethoscope on it and i could here it rumbling, im guessing that was the bearings that were making the racket i could hear, anyone know where i can just get bearings from for this (its the end numbers that are important)
RANGE ROVER 2.5 TD TD M/A 9/94- 11/98 R134A ERR4375 BMW DIESEL 14-5663 DENSO 10PA17C
44170-3760/447200-
3191
I think my A/C is fubar its 1 of 2 things run out of gas (done it 3 year ago) wouldn't have run out already im sure, the only way round that is Kwikfit
The Blurb:
Let Kwik Fit recharge your Air Con while-u-wait for only £44.95. We will replace and recharge lubricant and refrigerant levels in line with your manufacturer’s recommendation. If we cannot improve the coolest vent temperature from your car by more than 10% - then you pay nothing at all.* (Note the * lol)
Or it the compressor, the cheapest i can find new is around £350 but i am trying to find someone who will just sell parts, im guessing its the bearings? thats fubar, some time back 2 months ish ago, i put a mechanics stethoscope on it and i could here it rumbling, im guessing that was the bearings that were making the racket i could hear, anyone know where i can just get bearings from for this (its the end numbers that are important)
RANGE ROVER 2.5 TD TD M/A 9/94- 11/98 R134A ERR4375 BMW DIESEL 14-5663 DENSO 10PA17C
44170-3760/447200-
3191
Dopey
Well-Known Member
ok i read more blurb that says i should re gas it as least every 2 year, apparently you lose about 10% of gas each year
An estimated 10% of Air-Con gas permeates from the system every year.
so im 30% down with that, and i have my aircon on all year round too, so theres a loss there, and if you remember a few months back it was getting smelly, so i put some bacteria cleaner in the system (a bomb) so it could well be that it was low on gas and smelling!! dosn't explain the noisy compressor though!!
An estimated 10% of Air-Con gas permeates from the system every year.
so im 30% down with that, and i have my aircon on all year round too, so theres a loss there, and if you remember a few months back it was getting smelly, so i put some bacteria cleaner in the system (a bomb) so it could well be that it was low on gas and smelling!! dosn't explain the noisy compressor though!!
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
Hi Dopey
As you know, I have a Denso 10PA17C with good clutch & bearings. The rumble could be the swash plate and pistons inside doin their job.
Whats the pulley diameter on yours? As far as I know the only difference on the part codes is the pulley diameter and the manifold (Bolt on) for the ports.
If the compressors changed-yes needs regass. If the clutch/pulley assembly
is replaced-no regass required
As you know, I have a Denso 10PA17C with good clutch & bearings. The rumble could be the swash plate and pistons inside doin their job.
Whats the pulley diameter on yours? As far as I know the only difference on the part codes is the pulley diameter and the manifold (Bolt on) for the ports.
If the compressors changed-yes needs regass. If the clutch/pulley assembly
is replaced-no regass required
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
Dopey-me again.
I will take the pulley off the compressor and see if I can get a bearing number for you with a few sizes.-Watch this space.....
I will take the pulley off the compressor and see if I can get a bearing number for you with a few sizes.-Watch this space.....
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
Hi Dopey
The pulley bearing is 52mm O.D. X 30mm I.D. X 22 mm wide-looks like a double row ball bearing with oil/dust shields on each side.
I.D. on the bearing is 30BGS 10DST2 there is also no. 395 moulded into the shield/seal but this could be a batch no. The bearing is made by "Nachi" but an equivalent should be available from your local bearing stockist.
The pulley bearing is 52mm O.D. X 30mm I.D. X 22 mm wide-looks like a double row ball bearing with oil/dust shields on each side.
I.D. on the bearing is 30BGS 10DST2 there is also no. 395 moulded into the shield/seal but this could be a batch no. The bearing is made by "Nachi" but an equivalent should be available from your local bearing stockist.
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
Ahttp://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php?goto=lastpost&t=31621v a look at this
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
No problem Dopey.
Hope it may be as simple as no or low gas. Let us know how you get on. I am here if you need more info. or advice (For what it's worth!!)
Hope it may be as simple as no or low gas. Let us know how you get on. I am here if you need more info. or advice (For what it's worth!!)
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
Do a search on D30BGS 10DST2 the same as I did and you will get the article up on the Aussie Rangie or Disco site. Basically, it's a step by step replacement of the bearing.
Don't know what your thoughts are, but I prefer bearings made by the likes of FAG,SKF, Timken and the good old fashioned names. Have tried Japanese & Taiwanese bearings at work and they are s**te-you only get what you pay for!!
I am on nights next week and will look for a SKF or similar equivalent. I will send you a post around 3.30/4.30a.m.-make sure your up to receive it!!!
Don't know what your thoughts are, but I prefer bearings made by the likes of FAG,SKF, Timken and the good old fashioned names. Have tried Japanese & Taiwanese bearings at work and they are s**te-you only get what you pay for!!
I am on nights next week and will look for a SKF or similar equivalent. I will send you a post around 3.30/4.30a.m.-make sure your up to receive it!!!
Dopey
Well-Known Member
To me its Priceless m8
Dopey
Well-Known Member
Ok went to kwik fit and gassed it all up,
1st off no leaks so thats good
2nd no gas 00.000 Kg recovered (bad)
3rd was no oil was recovered in it at all, so it was empty of oil (bad thing) 0000 ml
so now its fully charged with gas( 01.100 Kg ) and oil too, 0010 ml but is that enough oil in the system? It says on the slip 140 ml should be in the system 50% less if the compressor isnt flushed
I think more oil than that should have been put it though, anyone know anything about this
also im still left with a problem all the vents fans etc are blowing and changing over fine
but if i put it on the manual and up high the fans dont blast out air as they should, its like a sensor isnt working and doesnt detect the true temperature and doesnt adjust the speed of them, is this broken sensor doing this, if it is witch one anyone know and help please?
1st off no leaks so thats good
2nd no gas 00.000 Kg recovered (bad)
3rd was no oil was recovered in it at all, so it was empty of oil (bad thing) 0000 ml
so now its fully charged with gas( 01.100 Kg ) and oil too, 0010 ml but is that enough oil in the system? It says on the slip 140 ml should be in the system 50% less if the compressor isnt flushed
I think more oil than that should have been put it though, anyone know anything about this
also im still left with a problem all the vents fans etc are blowing and changing over fine
but if i put it on the manual and up high the fans dont blast out air as they should, its like a sensor isnt working and doesnt detect the true temperature and doesnt adjust the speed of them, is this broken sensor doing this, if it is witch one anyone know and help please?
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
Regarding the oil, more can be added into the system, if you're not too happy-get them to put a bit more in. The full charge of gas should be around 1250grammes.
Two sensors, the ambient which measures the interior temp. in the car is located directly under the clock behind a small grille. Simple test is to set the Hevac at say 18 deg and with climate running, hold the hot cig. lighter just away from the grille, you should hear the blower fans speed up and colder air come from vents. This sensor has a small 12V fan in front of it to draw air over the sensor, sometimes the motor siezes with dust or s**te. Get a paper clip and see if you can give it a flick to kick start it. Alternatively-if your a smoker puff some smoke by the grille, you should see it being drawn in. Other sensor is solar sensor in centre of dash-shine a bright torch at the sensor (Located by alarm LED) and blowers should speed up. With Recirc. mode selected and blower fans in manual on max. with engine at around 1500-2000 rpm it should be freezin at face vents.
Two sensors, the ambient which measures the interior temp. in the car is located directly under the clock behind a small grille. Simple test is to set the Hevac at say 18 deg and with climate running, hold the hot cig. lighter just away from the grille, you should hear the blower fans speed up and colder air come from vents. This sensor has a small 12V fan in front of it to draw air over the sensor, sometimes the motor siezes with dust or s**te. Get a paper clip and see if you can give it a flick to kick start it. Alternatively-if your a smoker puff some smoke by the grille, you should see it being drawn in. Other sensor is solar sensor in centre of dash-shine a bright torch at the sensor (Located by alarm LED) and blowers should speed up. With Recirc. mode selected and blower fans in manual on max. with engine at around 1500-2000 rpm it should be freezin at face vents.
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
Im here at work until 8.00 tomorrow morning so the emegency service is in operation again!!!!!
Dopey
Well-Known Member
The 01.100 Kg is spot on its on top of the slam bar on the landy so i have no problem with that
The small fan is working i checked that on the weekend
So its either the sensor under the clock or the one on the dash, but what one do i change first thats the question!!
I will do th lighter and torch test 2morrow, like the fool i am i forgot to do them when i was checking it all on the weekend, and as you say, i will call kwik fit 2morrow about the oil
But how do i get oil in the compressor??
The small fan is working i checked that on the weekend
So its either the sensor under the clock or the one on the dash, but what one do i change first thats the question!!
I will do th lighter and torch test 2morrow, like the fool i am i forgot to do them when i was checking it all on the weekend, and as you say, i will call kwik fit 2morrow about the oil
But how do i get oil in the compressor??
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
There should be a filler
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately, system has to be emptied of gas to top up oil as it is usually drawn into the line by vaccum. There should be an oil filler screw on the compressor but obviously there will be some gas pressure in the body. If the fan is o.k. and the blowers don't kick in with the lighter in front of it-could very well be the sensor. Centre console has to be removed to get at it. If the solar sensor is shot-that just pulls out of the dash from above and disconnects at a plug. If that sensor is faulty, I have a spare.
Irishrover
Well-Known Member
Ignore the last but one post, "There should be a filler"-it's 6.30 a.m. and me brains addled!!
