U

uhh-ohh

Guest
Hi,

I don't know a lot about cars, so I am hoping to get a little advice
here. I have a '97 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 with about 80k miles on it. I
hadn't driven it in nearly a month, and when I went to start it, it
clicked but didn't turn over, and the dome light was dim. We
jumpstarted it and it seemed fine for a few hours of on and off
driving. The battery charge level was just right, no indication of a
problem. After a few stops, I went back out to the vehicle and it did
the same thing. We jumpstarted it again. It worked, even the next
morning after sitting all night for two nights, then the following
morning we had the same problem. Jumpstarted again.

Occasionally, while driving, the wipers didn't work, or the radio
didn't work, or the lights seemed dim.

Last night problem reoccurred. I tried removing battery connectors and
then placing them back on and tightening. It started and was fully
charged. This morning, no problem. Then, as I was driving to work with
the wipers, radio and lights all on, it stalled. I turned everything
off, and it restarted just fine.

Took it to the shop and they want to replace the alternator, they say
it's putting out 13 and it should be more than 14. It's $400+ for
parts/labor. I'm in a rural area. This is the only shop around! If I
drive it again and the power steering goes out when it stalls, and I'm
on a winding dangerous road (which we have a lot of), I could get into
a terrible accident.

Anyone have any advice? I'm considering just paying them to replace it
but I don't know if it's the right decision.

Thanks,
"uhh-ohh"

 
That sounds more like a battery or battery cable proble. Thos cabels
have two ends, you know - both can get corroded. Same with ground
straps to the frame and engine. I would start by having the battery
tested - parts stores like AutoZone, etc. will test it free. Next step
would be to clean the cables and battery posts - the cleaning
tool/brush is a couple of bucks, tops.

On Thu, 2 Mar 2006 00:13:19 UTC "uhh-ohh" <uhh.ohh@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I don't know a lot about cars, so I am hoping to get a little advice
> here. I have a '97 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 with about 80k miles on it. I
> hadn't driven it in nearly a month, and when I went to start it, it
> clicked but didn't turn over, and the dome light was dim. We
> jumpstarted it and it seemed fine for a few hours of on and off
> driving. The battery charge level was just right, no indication of a
> problem. After a few stops, I went back out to the vehicle and it did
> the same thing. We jumpstarted it again. It worked, even the next
> morning after sitting all night for two nights, then the following
> morning we had the same problem. Jumpstarted again.
>
> Occasionally, while driving, the wipers didn't work, or the radio
> didn't work, or the lights seemed dim.
>
> Last night problem reoccurred. I tried removing battery connectors and
> then placing them back on and tightening. It started and was fully
> charged. This morning, no problem. Then, as I was driving to work with
> the wipers, radio and lights all on, it stalled. I turned everything
> off, and it restarted just fine.
>
> Took it to the shop and they want to replace the alternator, they say
> it's putting out 13 and it should be more than 14. It's $400+ for
> parts/labor. I'm in a rural area. This is the only shop around! If I
> drive it again and the power steering goes out when it stalls, and I'm
> on a winding dangerous road (which we have a lot of), I could get into
> a terrible accident.
>
> Anyone have any advice? I'm considering just paying them to replace it
> but I don't know if it's the right decision.
>
> Thanks,
> "uhh-ohh"
>



--
Will Honea
 
Hi,
Nope Will, this doesn't sound like a cable problem to me, it definitely
sounds like the Alternator has had it.

When the OP mentions that while driving the vehicle, that the wipers
barely work, and other acessories, I believe this is a sure sign that
the Voltage Regulator in the Alternator has had it.

When a Battery is virtually shot, this puts mucho strain on an
alternator also.

The repair place is correctomundo, you need a new Alternator, and a new
Battery too.

I'm betting your battery is about 4-5 years old, correct?

Alternators generally aren't hard at all to change, usually a 3/8" of
1/2" Breaker Bar to release tension on the Tensioner pulley to remove
the Serpentine Belt, a couple of Bolts, and a Plug, and ground Wire, and
that's it.

Generally a 15 minute job, 20 at most (Provided you're not replacing the
stock Alternator with some jamoch Auto Zone generic, then you might be
there for 4 hours)

Don't be lured by the Auto Zone lifetime warrantee, their Alternators
are crap. If you want a good Alternator, and be done with it for a good
number of years, get a jeep factory replacement.

Even by installing yourself, although will save you some coin, will
still not be all that cheap.

I replaced an alternator in my '97 Tahoe (36K)
about 7 months ago, and cost at the dealer was $238 (with core exchange)
for the stock Delco 105 amp unit, and the joke was, it was an AC Delco
Factory remanufactured unit.

Definitely get yourself a new battery also, so you don't wind up
torturing the new replacement Alternator. One from Wally World for $50
will work just fine, and last you virtually the same amount of time as
any other run of the mill battery.

If you're not using your vehicle for extended periods of time (Storage)
also get yourself a battery tender charger. mark

 
On 1 Mar 2006 16:13:19 -0800, "uhh-ohh" <uhh.ohh@gmail.com> wrote:

>
>Took it to the shop and they want to replace the alternator, they say
>it's putting out 13 and it should be more than 14.


An alternator must deliver between 13.8 and 14.1 volts to properly
charge a battery. If it is below this value, the battery won't fully
charge. If it is above this value, the batery will overcharge and/or
overheat.

However a defective battery can result in similar symptoms.
 
Well, seeing as your alternator does 'not' have a voltage regulator
inside it, the regulator is in the computer, I would first clean both
ends of the battery cables. You say you removed them, but you didn't
mention cleaning them....

You are describing a classic bad connection in one of the main cables or
a polished up fan belt. To test for a polished up fan belt, I take a
cold off engine and see if I can hand slip the alternator pulley. If it
will hand slip, it will not grab when under charge load.

And $400.00 is about right for a $tealership alternator installed....

I had to call the local auto shop for prices on something else and asked
about it. Here in Canada, the aftermarket alternator for yours is
$234.00 and they give you $75.00 back for your old one so it costs
$159.00. It takes less than 1/2 hour to install....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

uhh-ohh wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I don't know a lot about cars, so I am hoping to get a little advice
> here. I have a '97 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 with about 80k miles on it. I
> hadn't driven it in nearly a month, and when I went to start it, it
> clicked but didn't turn over, and the dome light was dim. We
> jumpstarted it and it seemed fine for a few hours of on and off
> driving. The battery charge level was just right, no indication of a
> problem. After a few stops, I went back out to the vehicle and it did
> the same thing. We jumpstarted it again. It worked, even the next
> morning after sitting all night for two nights, then the following
> morning we had the same problem. Jumpstarted again.
>
> Occasionally, while driving, the wipers didn't work, or the radio
> didn't work, or the lights seemed dim.
>
> Last night problem reoccurred. I tried removing battery connectors and
> then placing them back on and tightening. It started and was fully
> charged. This morning, no problem. Then, as I was driving to work with
> the wipers, radio and lights all on, it stalled. I turned everything
> off, and it restarted just fine.
>
> Took it to the shop and they want to replace the alternator, they say
> it's putting out 13 and it should be more than 14. It's $400+ for
> parts/labor. I'm in a rural area. This is the only shop around! If I
> drive it again and the power steering goes out when it stalls, and I'm
> on a winding dangerous road (which we have a lot of), I could get into
> a terrible accident.
>
> Anyone have any advice? I'm considering just paying them to replace it
> but I don't know if it's the right decision.
>
> Thanks,
> "uhh-ohh"

 
Hi again, If that is indeed the case, that the Voltage Regulator is not
integral to the Alternator in this particular case, then it may very
well be that all that needs replacing is the Voltage Regulator itself,
and not the Alternator.

I had a similar incident years ago with my '90 Dodge Cummins Diesel 4x4
coming back from a trip, in which I started to lose everything, lights,
radio, power windows, and got caught in a torrential downpour to boot.
Thank god for Rain-X, and the fact that it was a diesel that doesn't
require votage to fire plugs like a gas engine does!

Anyway the next day, I did discover that on this vehicle that the
Voltage Regulator was remotely mounted on the Firewall, called the
dealer to see if they had one in stock, they did, price was $30,
installed it, and all was fine again.

This would be the first thing then I'd be checking. Mark

 
He should be so lucky, DC stuck the damn thing inside the main
computer....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)


Mark D wrote:
>
> Hi again, If that is indeed the case, that the Voltage Regulator is not
> integral to the Alternator in this particular case, then it may very
> well be that all that needs replacing is the Voltage Regulator itself,
> and not the Alternator.
>
> I had a similar incident years ago with my '90 Dodge Cummins Diesel 4x4
> coming back from a trip, in which I started to lose everything, lights,
> radio, power windows, and got caught in a torrential downpour to boot.
> Thank god for Rain-X, and the fact that it was a diesel that doesn't
> require votage to fire plugs like a gas engine does!
>
> Anyway the next day, I did discover that on this vehicle that the
> Voltage Regulator was remotely mounted on the Firewall, called the
> dealer to see if they had one in stock, they did, price was $30,
> installed it, and all was fine again.
>
> This would be the first thing then I'd be checking. Mark

 
On Fri, 03 Mar 2006 16:42:46 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>He should be so lucky, DC stuck the damn thing inside the main
>computer....
>
>Mike


WHich makes you think about converting to a GM one-wire model... <g>
 
how do i know if the voltage regulator is in my alternator or outside
of it? is a vr easy to change?

i'm having the same problem in a '90 jeep cherokee. glad i didn't buy
a new battery a week ago, because the alternator would have kept
killing it and it would have taken me longer to figure this all out.
it just dies when driving now. all the lights go dim - and i have
checked all the connections recenlty - cleaned it all up nice.

 
"keepin.it.real" wrote:
>
> how do i know if the voltage regulator is in my alternator or outside
> of it? is a vr easy to change?
>
> i'm having the same problem in a '90 jeep cherokee. glad i didn't buy
> a new battery a week ago, because the alternator would have kept
> killing it and it would have taken me longer to figure this all out.
> it just dies when driving now. all the lights go dim - and i have
> checked all the connections recenlty - cleaned it all up nice.


I think the 90 has a full alternator. That is still the older renix
system, before Chrysler screwed with it.

One sneaky connection that can screw up the charging is the wire mesh
cable from the rear of the head to the firewall. If it is ratty, the
battery won't charge.

You should check the belt too. I take a cold off engine and see if I
can hand slip the alternator pulley, it won't hold up under load and the
battery will slowly go dead. The belts get polished up.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
 

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