Jerseyp38

Active Member
Hi All,

Sorry to trouble again. I posted a couple of months ago about getting the above diagnosed when visiting UK ended up going to newforset 4x4 who were very helpful, especially when I turned up the day after they had scheduled me in............. They identified the alternator was US giving voltages between 8volts and 17volts. They mentioned there could be a problem with sensor injector. Anyway joy of being in the UK went to an autofactor and 2 hours later had an alternator and they let me fit it in their car park. Car a lot better but she still is not right. Injector light coming on on dash when lifting foot from accelerator (50% of the time), feels like it is 'hunting' when pulling up small hills just before you need to change down, has on half a dozen occasions not revved after lift foot from accelerator and I need to let the engine go to idle before selecting a gear and away we go again. I haven't completely disconnected the power box but have plugged in the wire to allow the signal to pass straight through and she definitely is a little less perky but problems still exist. Also see seems to be running rougher as time goes by so assume the problem is getting worse so made me convinced it is the FIP.

Whilst being crazy busy at work the last couple of months I have acquired a FIP (from a known good running engine until it seized, guy never had an oil change!), tool to hold timing chain pulley and a dial gauge. I have also ordered a new wired injector and a second hand throttle position sensor. Now could it be any of these? Before it came to the moment (ie today) when I have the opportunity to change the FIP I was convinced that must be what is causing the problems but not feeling so convinced at the moment....... Any thoughts?

I did look at a merc ml320 on air and did like it but it was £7000 so thought might as well spend some money collecting bits to try and fix mine. Did look at a cheap l322 but walked away and lets face it the bits I have bought cost less than two months loan payments..... But I need to make it reliable for the summer hols.

I am an amateur mechanic but have changed the FIP on a mercedes om636 engine, twice, but do feel nervous..........

Thanks
 
Hi All,

Sorry to trouble again. I posted a couple of months ago about getting the above diagnosed when visiting UK ended up going to newforset 4x4 who were very helpful, especially when I turned up the day after they had scheduled me in............. They identified the alternator was US giving voltages between 8volts and 17volts. They mentioned there could be a problem with sensor injector. Anyway joy of being in the UK went to an autofactor and 2 hours later had an alternator and they let me fit it in their car park. Car a lot better but she still is not right. Injector light coming on on dash when lifting foot from accelerator (50% of the time), feels like it is 'hunting' when pulling up small hills just before you need to change down, has on half a dozen occasions not revved after lift foot from accelerator and I need to let the engine go to idle before selecting a gear and away we go again. I haven't completely disconnected the power box but have plugged in the wire to allow the signal to pass straight through and she definitely is a little less perky but problems still exist. Also see seems to be running rougher as time goes by so assume the problem is getting worse so made me convinced it is the FIP.

Whilst being crazy busy at work the last couple of months I have acquired a FIP (from a known good running engine until it seized, guy never had an oil change!), tool to hold timing chain pulley and a dial gauge. I have also ordered a new wired injector and a second hand throttle position sensor. Now could it be any of these? Before it came to the moment (ie today) when I have the opportunity to change the FIP I was convinced that must be what is causing the problems but not feeling so convinced at the moment....... Any thoughts?

I did look at a merc ml320 on air and did like it but it was £7000 so thought might as well spend some money collecting bits to try and fix mine. Did look at a cheap l322 but walked away and lets face it the bits I have bought cost less than two months loan payments..... But I need to make it reliable for the summer hols.

I am an amateur mechanic but have changed the FIP on a mercedes om636 engine, twice, but do feel nervous..........

Thanks

You seem to have a fuel quantity servo fault. Does the engine ever stall from idle when gears are engaged or steering inputs are made at low speed? Diag would tell you better.
 
Hi Wammers,

yes she does, forgot to mention has actually stalled a few times, only just after starting and pulling away when going to change from first to second stalls. Has done a 4 or 5 times. And yes seems to lack power and I have stalled it regularly doing when reversing on to the moderately step drive whilst putting full lock on the steering. I agree diagnostics but still waiting three months for the local garage to help........... Also at idle and turning the steering sounds like she could stall?

Thank you for your time. Have I seen that labelled on a diagram of the FIP?
 
Good to see you back, I was wondering if you had fallen down that manhole :p

Wammers said months ago quantity servo so a decent FIP will help bigtime. You may also need camshaft lock tool and flywheel pin for TDC, that means cam cover gasket and inlet manifold gaskets to change :oops:

Also, have you invested in wheel chocks yet? :rolleyes::D;):D:D
 
Thanks RangeRoller dt, no not fallen down the manhole, just crazy busy at work as we all are I am sure! Damn don't remember wammers saying about quantity servo, or didn't realise what it was at the time (ie built in to the pump). RAVE makes no mention of using a camshaft locking tool, not that I can see? (looking at service job 19.30.07). Also for the fly wheel locking pin I was hoping to just pop in a suitable sized drill bit or similar? Have inlet manifold washers and a good selection of O rings? Looks like I need to give it ago though. (Sorry to wammers for not realising the importance of a previous post). Do you have a locking pin? Would you be able to tell me the details of it so I could make one. I assume it is only a piece of bar with a shoulder and thread on? With my H&S record I promise to not use a candle to illuminate the job when it gets dark!!!!!! :D unless the job goes wrong!!! ;)

Thanks
 
Good to see you back, I was wondering if you had fallen down that manhole :p

Wammers said months ago quantity servo so a decent FIP will help bigtime. You may also need camshaft lock tool and flywheel pin for TDC, that means cam cover gasket and inlet manifold gaskets to change :oops:

Also, have you invested in wheel chocks yet? :rolleyes::D;):D:D

He needs a pump sprocket holder and flywheel locking pin along with static timing gear. Don't need cam tool. Pretty simple job if you know what you are doing.
 
Thanks RangeRoller dt, no not fallen down the manhole, just crazy busy at work as we all are I am sure! Damn don't remember wammers saying about quantity servo, or didn't realise what it was at the time (ie built in to the pump). RAVE makes no mention of using a camshaft locking tool, not that I can see? (looking at service job 19.30.07). Also for the fly wheel locking pin I was hoping to just pop in a suitable sized drill bit or similar? Have inlet manifold washers and a good selection of O rings? Looks like I need to give it ago though. (Sorry to wammers for not realising the importance of a previous post). Do you have a locking pin? Would you be able to tell me the details of it so I could make one. I assume it is only a piece of bar with a shoulder and thread on? With my H&S record I promise to not use a candle to illuminate the job when it gets dark!!!!!! :D unless the job goes wrong!!! ;)

Thanks

Details of lock pin are in tech archive, look at my EAS post it's at the bottom of that. You will need a pump sprocket holding tool. DO NOT remove pump without one in place. Then you will need an adaptor and DTI for static timing. follow instructions in RAVE, other than the one that says turn engine backwards. Apart from a little shimmy to locate locking pin NEVER turn engine backwards, if you have worn chains, it can jump the crank sprocket doing that. Once you have engine locked at TDC number one firing and fitted pump and sprocket holder removed. The engine has to be turned two revolutions to return to that point. So just before two revolutions follow rave for zeroing DTI and locating lock pin. Then you can read lift on cam. With pump just movable with a block of wood and hammer tap it round to get 0.90 lift. But last movement to attain that lift MUST be towards engine. Tighten pump and refit injection pipes.
 
Hi All,

Sorry to trouble again. I posted a couple of months ago about getting the above diagnosed when visiting UK ended up going to newforset 4x4 who were very helpful, especially when I turned up the day after they had scheduled me in............. They identified the alternator was US giving voltages between 8volts and 17volts. They mentioned there could be a problem with sensor injector. Anyway joy of being in the UK went to an autofactor and 2 hours later had an alternator and they let me fit it in their car park. Car a lot better but she still is not right. Injector light coming on on dash when lifting foot from accelerator (50% of the time), feels like it is 'hunting' when pulling up small hills just before you need to change down, has on half a dozen occasions not revved after lift foot from accelerator and I need to let the engine go to idle before selecting a gear and away we go again. I haven't completely disconnected the power box but have plugged in the wire to allow the signal to pass straight through and she definitely is a little less perky but problems still exist. Also see seems to be running rougher as time goes by so assume the problem is getting worse so made me convinced it is the FIP.

Whilst being crazy busy at work the last couple of months I have acquired a FIP (from a known good running engine until it seized, guy never had an oil change!), tool to hold timing chain pulley and a dial gauge. I have also ordered a new wired injector and a second hand throttle position sensor. Now could it be any of these? Before it came to the moment (ie today) when I have the opportunity to change the FIP I was convinced that must be what is causing the problems but not feeling so convinced at the moment....... Any thoughts?

I did look at a merc ml320 on air and did like it but it was £7000 so thought might as well spend some money collecting bits to try and fix mine. Did look at a cheap l322 but walked away and lets face it the bits I have bought cost less than two months loan payments..... But I need to make it reliable for the summer hols.

I am an amateur mechanic but have changed the FIP on a mercedes om636 engine, twice, but do feel nervous..........

Thanks

New Forest? So you're Southampton way? @doz used to have a Nanocom down there. Might be close?

A drill bit the right size would probably lock the flywheel if required.
 
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He hasn’t long changed pump, you told him VDO (as did we all) he changed it over a manhole lol.

Yes sorry, cam lock tool only needed if you take chains off - not in this instance.
Flywheel tools specs are in Wammers tech thread to make your own or find suitable.

This may jog people’s memory :
Injector lamp coming on as you lift off is a quantity servo fault. You need diag on it i am afraid. £750 for refurbing injectors are you being serious. That is bloody ridiculous. Costs about £32.00 per injector around here exchange. £250.00 should cover all six.
Dec17 2018
 
Well made a start but seems I was sent a sprocket holding tool for a M57 (guess I should have checked)..... Will order one for an M51 now........ So have put it all back together and will have to wait until next week now. Will also give me chance to make a locking pin tomorrow. I agree should only be a few hours work as long as everything can be undone and it works when it is put back! I think I understand the instructions. The first time I did the injector pump on the boat engine it took me a straight 36 hours almost non stop with just 4 hours sleep in the middle of the job: old one off, new one on, didn't start. New one off, old one on didn't start. Redid the timing marks on the fly wheel using a depth vernier to check for no1 TDC, old one off new one on to new timing marks did start. Hence why I am a bit nervous. Thank you all for the input and hopefully will be job done in a week or so.
 
Grrr, I am based in Jersey but have family Dorset and Hampshire way. Sorry didn't pick up on quantity servo fault. I was assuming it was a seperte thing that would only show up on diagnostics. It wasn't until this week that I started reading more about the FIP. Fingers crossed I am chasing the right thing and can get it running right! Taxes have changed in Jersey and to bring another across to the isalnd with ferry etc will add at least £1500 to the price! Might have to be a ford fiesta. Hence I need all the help I can get!
 
Grrr, I am based in Jersey but have family Dorset and Hampshire way. Sorry didn't pick up on quantity servo fault. I was assuming it was a seperte thing that would only show up on diagnostics. It wasn't until this week that I started reading more about the FIP. Fingers crossed I am chasing the right thing and can get it running right! Taxes have changed in Jersey and to bring another across to the isalnd with ferry etc will add at least £1500 to the price! Might have to be a ford fiesta. Hence I need all the help I can get!

Cheaper to bring it here, fix it and then drive back.
 
Sorry didn't pick up on quantity servo fault

No need for apologise, just thought I’d mention it’s still probably a main problem with your vehicle from before. So many people come and go, but I remember you pulling your tank out ;)
Remember pics for this one too...

And stay away from that guy in jersey trying to refurb your injectors for £750, likely an horologist :rolleyes::D
 

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