M

Mk Mudpie

New Member
Hillo me again
Strangie is ill again , ticks over just fine but when you drive her she almost dies and starts stuttering , real pian in the arse at round abouts and over taking , never no if she gonna drive of or not
have taken the plugs out and cleaned them
taken the rotor cap and arm of , checked cleaned accordingly
got magnacor leads fitted not long ago so assume these are ok
im not good with electrics so am afraid to say im about at my limit as to what to check so hopeing for advice and info so as to go further :doh:
other than burning her any help please
 
Difficult to know where to start, what colour were the plugs when you took them out? Worth doing a compression test to check that everything is mechanically ok though. If it ticks over fine, then the ignition system is likely to be ok. Try a compression test, then have a look at the engine management system inputs - perhaps the mass flowmeter is playing up, but that's a guess really. Let me know how you get on.
 
Compression ok 12 bar and above all cylinders , changed fuel ecu , getting sufficient fuel , plugs mostly normal , a bit black but i put that down 2 the stuttering and fuel not burning correctly , checked the normal leads cap arm etc , been out there all weekend , no better
 
Hmm, I know the feeling, it gets pretty depressing when you seem to be getting nowhere! Is the fuel pump definately providing enough pressure? The symptons you describe do sound like a weak mixture, tickover ok, but no power, what about air leaks, have you checked the hoses from the mass flowmeter to the plenum chamber? it's worth a look.
Do you mean that there is just a flat spot off tickover, or do you lose power all over the rev range?
Keep going, with compressions like that you have no massive problems :)
 
When your driving along a normal road she jus looses all power and starts stuttering , power coming and going , you think she gonna die then she goes then back to die again , just keeps doing this , ticks over all day long fine as you like , checked for air leaks , none ,
 
From what you describe I think you should check the fuel pump, it clearly provides enough fuel on no load, but not happy when it has to work, maybe just a blocked filter? You know where the pump is? Under the boot floor, lift the carpet and there should be a cut out in the soundproofing, lift this near the centre of gthe floor and there is a metal panel you can remove, 6 self tappers I think, then a big, red plastic locking ring, undo this and pull out the pump, there is a mesh fuel filter at the inlet, it could be blocked. Next would be to run the pump with a 12V battery and check that it runs freely and sounds ok.
 
There's another filter under the right hand rear wheel arch, at the top, mounted on the chassis rail, about 2 inches diameter and 3 inches long, silver in colour, it's worth changing that one too! Good luck :)
 
RobCavendish said:
There's another filter under the right hand rear wheel arch, at the top, mounted on the chassis rail, about 2 inches diameter and 3 inches long, silver in colour, it's worth changing that one too! Good luck :)
Click to expand...

While you are up there, check the condition of the fuel pipes where they run above the chassis rail (behind the top spring mount).

Don't ask how I know :doh::doh:

Pete
 
new fuel filters done , fuel pump relays changed , ecu changed for 3 differant 1s , even changed the fuel pump , no change , looking at coil later but now out of funds
 
Do you have access to any diagnostic software for the fuel injection ECU? It's pretty good at identifying faulty inputs, and there are quite a few worth checking. Does your car have catalysts and Lamda sensors? A diagnostic tool would identify any faults coming into the ECU. It still seems that a fuel problem is more likely than an ignition one. You definitely don't have any leaks? The pipes from the tank to the engine bay are steel and they certainly do rust. If you run the engine at tickover you can check the pipe run, over the RH rear wheel arch, along the chassis rail, behind the suspension compressor and up into the engine bay, another popular place to leak is around the unions to the pump, easy to check from the boot floor inspection panel.
 
Dont have any access to diagnostic equipement , no air or fuel leaks , checked the timing , changed a rotten fuel pipe , filter to tank , new filter new pump , new relays , swapped ecu for another from a runnin car , so far no better
 
why dont you think its electrical classic weak ignition is ticking over but wont rev without dying ,you should relpace spark plugs ,cap ,rotor arm ,leads ,coil regulary at least annualy, check amplifier it must be tired by now,you can spray all joints with spray grease oil or such to check for air leaks will temporairly run better if you spray a leak ,inlet manifold bolts can often loosen,fuel rep vac pipe on rear of pleunm often split and fall off
 
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