Hi all - got 4 qs hoping you can help with. 1996 Defender 90 300TDI. I've got a basic mechanical knowledge but limited tools / space to actually inspect and play around with stuff much so hoping you guys can do some keyboard Sherlocking for me. Thanks in advance

1. Brake wear
2.5 years ago shortly after purchase, discovered on MOT that the rear brake pistons had seized and were less than useless. Discs were incredibly pitted as a result. New calipers, discs, pads done. Replaced my valve stem dust caps today (increased pressure for a motorway trip the other day and was distracted by the missus coming back from the petrol station with Greggs saus rolls, drove off without replacing...doh!) and noticed some odd wear / cleaning on the horizontal surface of the brake disc between the vertical disc itself and the hub. This is the same on both sides, but only on the rear. Front is absolutely fine. Braking when driving nice and responsive. Pictures attached.

Hard to see, but looks / feels like a relatively flexible but firm bit of plastic coming out from behind the pad. Clear view on the 1st pic, but can see the flex on the 2nd and 3rd pics. Sort of feels like it's some type of shaped cover from the pads.

Braking performance is fine, only done about 15k miles on it since pads were replaced so don't think it's the pads themselves.

Any ideas what this is? Anything to be concerned about?

2. Lift pump / fuel filter
About 2 years ago my lift pump went - diaphragm split and had no pressure on the manual lever. Had a new fuel filter as well as previous one was full of water and crud. Happened because I ended up running very low on diesel on the last leg of a journey and didn't want to pay extortionate motorway fuel prices, likely crap from the fuel tank being sucked through. Learnt my lesson and never let it go much beyond the start of the red section on the gauge.

Was highly surprised therefore that this Sunday PM after running absolutely fine in the AM it happened again. Had just hit the red on my fuel gauge and was actually on my way to fill up. Engine felt like it was being starved under drive to the point of cutting out, but idles fine. It'll limp if needed. 99% sure it's the lift pump again.

Not sure where the previous one was from, mechanic fit it. 2 years seems a v short space of time for a lift pump to fail from new. Can you recommend any decent quality ones that won't throw a fit?

Follow up to that - any advice of ease / any point of washing out the fuel tank? The recovery chap who got me home owns about 20 landys and said part of the issue is modern fuel & somehow that relates to water getting into the fuel filter and might not be worth washing out the tank (didn't really get his point but we'd just hit my driveway so didn't get to ask further)

3. Turbo
When I first got the vehicle 3.5 years ago the turbo had a very satisfying and loud hiss when the pressure was dumped. Quite amusing, almost sounded boyracer-ish.

Previous owner fit a sparco hose system but to the best of my knowledge it's the original turbo unit itself. My old mechanic who sorted the lift pump initially thought it might be something to do with that so stripped it and cleaned it out, full of crap apparently. Turbo works absolutely fine, plenty or overdrive / accel when it kicks in. Since then though it's never made the pressure release hiss (although can still hear the pressure building when getting up to 50 / 60 in 4th & 5th).

Least of my issues, but is there any reason for this? Anything to be concerned about?

4. Nearly there... Bushes (?)

Fairly irritating intermittent squeaking noise has started when I take a left-hander anywhere above 35mph (think A roads, so there's a bit of lean / roll going on). Doesn't happen for right-handers.

Would I be right in assuming this is something to do with the bushes? Pretty sure they're getting on now.



If you made it this far - cheers! Any thoughts very welcome!

Brakes, the thin bit is an anti squeal shim, the discs are corroded as you are doing such low miles.

Have you changed the fuel filter since?
Lift pumps are all pretty poor quality, and it can be the luck of the draw on how long they last.

DefendingLancashire said:

Hard to see, but looks / feels like a relatively flexible but firm bit of plastic coming out from behind the pad. Clear view on the 1st pic, but can see the flex on the 2nd and 3rd pics. Sort of feels like it's some type of shaped cover from the pads.

Click to expand...

Lots of good brake pads have anti squeal shims fitted to the back of them which fit that description. Easiest diagnosis would be to pop the pad out and have a look at the back of it and post up some more pics. the lazy part of me would be saying if brakes are still good and the part rubbing is soft plastic rather than metal which is scoring then I would leave it until the pads need doing.

lynall said:

Brakes, the thin bit is an anti squeal shim, the discs are corroded as you are doing such low miles.

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Thanks Lynall. As they're both doing the same thing, safe to assume its just how they were installed and it's not a cause for concern? Or should they be sitting squarer within the system and not rubbing like they are?

Aye, she's been sat in the absolute ****ing rain for a couple of days and it's been obscenely wet over the last couple of weeks, so not surprised or bothered about a little bit of surface rust on the discs themselves.

DefendingLancashire said:

Not sure where the previous one was from, mechanic fit it. 2 years seems a v short space of time for a lift pump to fail from new. Can you recommend any decent quality ones that won't throw a fit?

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I use delphi lift pumps, but even them being a reputable brand they last somewhere between 2-5 years (i do about 25k a year). lesser brands can fail within weeks. The quality is no longer what is was and I carry a lift pump in the tool box with me as a spare which is testament to the current lifespan

In terms of washing the tank out without removing it you are going to struggle to wash it out. It might be worth draining it and running some fresh fuel into it and doing that few times to try and flush through any contaminants. Modern fuel ends up with water in it because of the alcohol content, it cannot be avoided unfortunately.

dag019 said:

Lots of good brake pads have anti squeal shims fitted to the back of them which fit that description. Easiest diagnosis would be to pop the pad out and have a look at the back of it and post up some more pics. the lazy part of me would be saying if brakes are still good and the part rubbing is soft plastic rather than metal which is scoring then I would leave it until the pads need doing.

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Cheers Dag. Yes it's plastic so the worn lines are just an absence of crud than actual wear Not the easiest to do stuff like take my hubs to bits with my set up / toolset so will leave. Good to know the pads are decent quality then!

DefendingLancashire said:

Least of my issues, but is there any reason for this? Anything to be concerned about?

Click to expand...

Cannot specifically help with this but if the turbo is functioning and providing good power then leave well enough alone would be my advice

DefendingLancashire said:

Would I be right in assuming this is something to do with the bushes? Pretty sure they're getting on now.

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Bushes are easy enough to check you just need to crawl underneath with a prybar/large screwdriver and give each bush a wiggle. If there is play it needs replacing.

dag019 said:

I use delphi lift pumps, but even them being a reputable brand they last somewhere between 2-5 years (i do about 25k a year). lesser brands can fail within weeks. The quality is no longer what is was and I carry a lift pump in the tool box with me as a spare which is testament to the current lifespan

In terms of washing the tank out without removing it you are going to struggle to wash it out. It might be worth draining it and running some fresh fuel into it and doing that few times to try and flush through any contaminants. Modern fuel ends up with water in it because of the alcohol content, it cannot be avoided unfortunately.

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Ah Delphi actually rings a bell now you've said it. Think that's what I've got in.

Makes sense RE the tank wash. Will have a think about that one.

dag019 said:

Cannot specifically help with this but if the turbo is functioning and providing good power then leave well enough alone would be my advice



Bushes are easy enough to check you just need to crawl underneath with a prybar/large screwdriver and give each bush a wiggle. If there is play it needs replacing.

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Aha sorry mate I'm replying to all these separately and they keep rolling in! Cheers for the replies!

Aye, always been told opening a turbo is nearly last resort. Bushes defo could do with being replaced soon but was curious if that's what might cause the squeaking noise, or if I've got something else to worry about

DefendingLancashire said:

Cheers Dag. Yes it's plastic so the worn lines are just an absence of crud than actual wear Not the easiest to do stuff like take my hubs to bits with my set up / toolset so will leave. Good to know the pads are decent quality then!

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to remove the pads the only tools you need are things to remove the wheel (should have come with the vehicle) and then a set of pliers to remove the split pins from the brake calliper. the pads will then just slide out the top. It is not like a modern car where you need to remove the calliper.

dag019 said:

to remove the pads the only tools you need are things to remove the wheel (should have come with the vehicle) and then a set of pliers to remove the split pins from the brake calliper. the pads will then just slide out the top. It is not like a modern car where you need to remove the calliper.

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Cheers! Everyday's a school day! Will have a go if it stop raining for more than 5 seconds today.

That seems quite a big groove worn in the horizontal surface.
Something needs investigating, not sure what but it dont look right. Mismatch of disc/calipers maybe.

J

Do the 300tdi 90 fuel tanks have a drain bung same as the 200tdi 90 ones?