battenberg
Well-Known Member
get help, gearbox is heavy!
8x12mm spire clips and self tapping screws are a good alternative to pop rivits as the metal is thin and easily damaged when you drill out the transmission tunnel seal.
a couple of lengths of long threaded bar screwed into the bell housing threads can help you draw the gearbox back to the bell housing on relocation, then remove them and replace with the stock bolts.
get a re-enforced clutch fork.
plenty of jacks and blocks of wood, jacking up the front of the engine to force a downwards angle at the bell housing will help you...
good luck
8x12mm spire clips and self tapping screws are a good alternative to pop rivits as the metal is thin and easily damaged when you drill out the transmission tunnel seal.
a couple of lengths of long threaded bar screwed into the bell housing threads can help you draw the gearbox back to the bell housing on relocation, then remove them and replace with the stock bolts.
get a re-enforced clutch fork.
plenty of jacks and blocks of wood, jacking up the front of the engine to force a downwards angle at the bell housing will help you...
good luck
gotoneatlast
New Member
i did it like this
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=6719
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=6719
Jason2
Well-Known Member
As above
I take the whole lot off in one lump (gearbox & transfer box) useing rachet straps onto the chassis, you have to let box drop a lot on mounts to get to the top bell housing bolts,dont forget to change the spigot bearing!
I find the hardest part is disconecting the kin breather pipes,transfer box lingages!
Good luck
I take the whole lot off in one lump (gearbox & transfer box) useing rachet straps onto the chassis, you have to let box drop a lot on mounts to get to the top bell housing bolts,dont forget to change the spigot bearing!
I find the hardest part is disconecting the kin breather pipes,transfer box lingages!
Good luck
Be careful it is soooo heavy!!
I would pull the tranfer box off first, get some threaded rod as mentioned to align transfer box when putting it back.
I tore a tendon in my shoulder twisting the transfer box into place last year, ended up with operation, no joke, been out off hospital now just over three weeks. Physio TWICE a day and I am just getting some decent movement back and god did it hurt (looking for the sympathy vote here).
I did it on my own but as I found out it is all to easy to hurt yourself. If I had the threaded rods I would not have injured my self.
regards
Dave
I would pull the tranfer box off first, get some threaded rod as mentioned to align transfer box when putting it back.
I tore a tendon in my shoulder twisting the transfer box into place last year, ended up with operation, no joke, been out off hospital now just over three weeks. Physio TWICE a day and I am just getting some decent movement back and god did it hurt (looking for the sympathy vote here).
I did it on my own but as I found out it is all to easy to hurt yourself. If I had the threaded rods I would not have injured my self.
regards
Dave
alex8882
Well-Known Member
When me and 300tdi stu did my clutch we used a engine hoist. Put it through the drivers front door, wrapped the rope round the transmission. Once the crossmember,props,and wireing were off, lowered the hole lot onto the floor. No jacks,just easy street lol. Good luck with it pal. The only bolts that can be alittle hardwork are the top two. Hence removing the centre console.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
as alex8882 best way and safest ,use your vehicle jack under engine front on panhard rod when transmission lowered but still attached to support engine which is front end heavy
