slomofo

Well-Known Member
I throw myself at the feet of the Wizards whose insight into defender wiring I now desire..

No power reaching the Reversing Light, Fuse is intact, loom to rear is good, new switch and wiring from fuse to switch all good.

So, where does the power come from to feed the fuse panel - is it via one of the block connectors on the bulkhead, if so which wire/pin am I tracing?

I may end up just pointing a torch out of the window when I reverse as an alternate solution....

So in summary - all good from Light to Fuse, then its a mystery

I thank you......
 
I throw myself at the feet of the Wizards whose insight into defender wiring I now desire..

No power reaching the Reversing Light, Fuse is intact, loom to rear is good, new switch and wiring from fuse to switch all good.

So, where does the power come from to feed the fuse panel - is it via one of the block connectors on the bulkhead, if so which wire/pin am I tracing?

I may end up just pointing a torch out of the window when I reverse as an alternate solution....

So in summary - all good from Light to Fuse, then its a mystery

I thank you......

If you have tested for voltage at the light, have you tested at the switch?
 
Reverse continuity test OK from light to switch and from switch to fuse, no power from fuse the ‘right way’
 
mystery power distribution 300tdi defender.png
electrical schemes - defender 300 tdi-19.png
 
I had the same problem. Part of loom had melted by the gearbox. Couldn’t see it from under car though
 
Balls.

Power now reaching the reverse lamp, but only 9.5/10 volts - not enough juice to fire up the LED reversing light. Probably run an old one but it will be as useful as a candle.

Guessing I need to find where the volts drop and run a new bit of wire?

Any cute workarounds you fellas know of? Use existing feeble wire as a trigger on a relay that takes clean power from nearby?
 
Balls.

Power now reaching the reverse lamp, but only 9.5/10 volts - not enough juice to fire up the LED reversing light. Probably run an old one but it will be as useful as a candle.

Guessing I need to find where the volts drop and run a new bit of wire?

Any cute workarounds you fellas know of? Use existing feeble wire as a trigger on a relay that takes clean power from nearby?

Check voltage at other lamps too, check vontage at whatever you can so long as its on a different circuit, you might find its the battery, battery earth, or something else. Does it turn over fast?
 
Also, bypass the switch, see if the voltage climbs.
New battery, new switch, good juice at the switch - losing between switch and rear - now trying alternate Brown/Green feed (LHD) to see if the fault is between the light and where it joins the loom in the Drivers side corner box thingy….
 
New battery, new switch, good juice at the switch - losing between switch and rear - now trying alternate Brown/Green feed (LHD) to see if the fault is between the light and where it joins the loom in the Drivers side corner box thingy….

Does it have trailer electrics? Or has it ever had the harness chopped or modded? A voltage drop on a single run of cable is unlikley.
 
Indeed it has got trailer electrics, I’ve found that the installer has run the loom to the trailer socket first and then on to the N/S rear - it’s a dogs dinner. I don’t tow, so I’ll be ripping that lot out when the Half Chassis goes in at end of Next Month.

I’ve run out of talent/energy to fix it temporarily so it can wait until the major surgery!


Simple is good
 

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