THEengineer

whatever
having had my 300 tdi cook its head,i am looking at putting a low water warning system in due to the fact the pump is high up on the engine,i found a mini float switch Water Level Sensor Horizontal Liquid PP Side Mount Float Switch For Pool Tank | eBay

but dont know if this would work on 12v,my plan was fit this switch to the header tank,live in to the switch,breaking on the switch making continuity,(fully closed)but putting power through if the switch opens,too a small warning bulb on the dash,so basically if the water level drops it brings a warning light on,can i use this simple circuit?or do i need a relay?
 

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Looks like a handy thing to fit. Might be a bit difficult finding a suitable fixing point on my spherical TD5 header tank though!
 
i bought a conductivity probe (well sort of!) kit for my mgtf. Its a universal kit and it works by having 2 screws essentially through the coolant header tank about an inch apart. When the water level goes too low the conductivity is broken and it sets off a light and a little buzzer. It was only about £10 from memory. I will see if I can find them again.
 
Wouldnt an oil temp gauge do the same thing, if it looses coolant/not circulating the water temp obviously doesnt change much, but the oil temp would shoot up.
 
having had my 300 tdi cook its head,i am looking at putting a low water warning system in due to the fact the pump is high up on the engine,i found a mini float switch Water Level Sensor Horizontal Liquid PP Side Mount Float Switch For Pool Tank | eBay

but dont know if this would work on 12v,my plan was fit this switch to the header tank,live in to the switch,breaking on the switch making continuity,(fully closed)but putting power through if the switch opens,too a small warning bulb on the dash,so basically if the water level drops it brings a warning light on,can i use this simple circuit?or do i need a relay?

The RR 300tdi had a float switch fitted as standard. Just order the RR part. PRC7925. Wiring is a simple light circuit.
 
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Why should that be any more complicated than the Hippo mod to a gaylander?

It's not insurmountable, just needs a bit more thought. I might get a cheap secondhand tank to play with.

Come to think of it, as I've only used about a cup full of water in nearly 40,000 miles, it's not exactly urgent. but it might be useful if I were to spring a leak.
 
Just remember that the coolant tank will pressurise (potentially up to about 15 psi) so you need to ensure whatever you use can withstand it. Brake res float switch wouldn't work as the cap isn't fully sealed, if the system cant hold pressure then the coolant will boil at a lower temperature and you will loose coolant. Pressurising to 15psi raises the coolant boiling point to something like 115 deg C if I recall correctly
 
It's not insurmountable, just needs a bit more thought. I might get a cheap secondhand tank to play with.

Come to think of it, as I've only used about a cup full of water in nearly 40,000 miles, it's not exactly urgent. but it might be useful if I were to spring a leak.
there is no problem!

the gaylander tank is round!

what worked for that will work for your round tank.
 
This needs really no thought - I will mention it again as it seems everyone chose to gloss over my comment.

Buy this: PRC7925 its the proper part for the job made by LR for the expansion tank fitted!

All you need is some wire, an ignition live, and a warning lamp somewhere.
 

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