jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
viscous would be best 3.9s dont like thermal shock
viscous dont work though...look at all those fecked standard 3.9's???
i say use kenlow you got BUT have it switch on at a lower temp??say 80 max
(i run my uz that way..never goes above 82, stays between 70-82 even mid summer)
also low opening temp stat..GOOD rad too!!
i say use kenlow you got BUT have it switch on at a lower temp??say 80 max
(i run my uz that way..never goes above 82, stays between 70-82 even mid summer)
also low opening temp stat..GOOD rad too!!
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
only because viscous needs replacing after 10 years of life,or theres another issue with cooling system
discool
Well-Known Member
As any one knows who has a Kenlow fan fitted is that to stop the fan being operated for long periods a normal engine running temperature and over cooling the engine, is, to set the coolent temperature sensor 5c degrees higher than normal running temp, not a good idea on an all alloy engine to allow to get hotter than it's designed for, problems can arise like head gasket, slipped liners.
Although 5c may not seem much why the the risk.
Over heating or over cooling for that matter can't happen with a Viscous fan that's maybe why LR still fit them.
Although 5c may not seem much why the the risk.
Over heating or over cooling for that matter can't happen with a Viscous fan that's maybe why LR still fit them.
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:5bbanghead:
then..hows about....definative answer to keepp your 3.9 alive.
new good rad..new good pump..new good low opening stat..
new vis fan..+ back up kenlow..(though should never be needed???)
though the main reason slipped liners appear (according to those in the know) tis poor ecu managment) ie too weak mixture causing excessive cyclinder temps..
engine runs at max efficieny circa 70c..cab heater dont though!..so running engine at 80c is a good idea..AND keeping it constant..therefore using kenlow in my opoion is a good idea..you do know you can adjust the hysteris on them??
open now to discusion??
then..hows about....definative answer to keepp your 3.9 alive.
new good rad..new good pump..new good low opening stat..
new vis fan..+ back up kenlow..(though should never be needed???)
though the main reason slipped liners appear (according to those in the know) tis poor ecu managment) ie too weak mixture causing excessive cyclinder temps..
engine runs at max efficieny circa 70c..cab heater dont though!..so running engine at 80c is a good idea..AND keeping it constant..therefore using kenlow in my opoion is a good idea..you do know you can adjust the hysteris on them??
open now to discusion??
captainbeaky
Active Member
I use two stage fans on my RRC.
I was concerned about thermal shock too.
They came out of a 1999 mondeo v6, with the plastic hacked back, and metal brackets fabricated to fit the rangie rad.
The temp sensor came from a Volvo.
Basically, the temp sensor has two switches.
First switch closes at 86 degrees ( thermostat opening point), and the second switch closes at 102 degrees I think.
I wired up two relays, so that when the first switch closes ( the thermostat has just started to open) the fans are in series.
This means that the fans run at a nice slow pace, I'd estimate the equivalent of a 20 mph equivalent cooling breeze.
When the second switch closes, both fans come on full, and there's a howling gale through the rad.
I have a manual override switch on the dash, and two lights that tell me if they are on low or high.
I have never seen them on high - ever, and I've done some pretty silly hard towing - heavy loads, slow speed, big hills.
But never had ant thermal shock either.
Because the fans are always on whenever the thermostat is open, the engine temp is spot on, and less underbonnet heat buildup.
I was concerned about thermal shock too.
They came out of a 1999 mondeo v6, with the plastic hacked back, and metal brackets fabricated to fit the rangie rad.
The temp sensor came from a Volvo.
Basically, the temp sensor has two switches.
First switch closes at 86 degrees ( thermostat opening point), and the second switch closes at 102 degrees I think.
I wired up two relays, so that when the first switch closes ( the thermostat has just started to open) the fans are in series.
This means that the fans run at a nice slow pace, I'd estimate the equivalent of a 20 mph equivalent cooling breeze.
When the second switch closes, both fans come on full, and there's a howling gale through the rad.
I have a manual override switch on the dash, and two lights that tell me if they are on low or high.
I have never seen them on high - ever, and I've done some pretty silly hard towing - heavy loads, slow speed, big hills.
But never had ant thermal shock either.
Because the fans are always on whenever the thermostat is open, the engine temp is spot on, and less underbonnet heat buildup.
