Morning All,
I'd like to think I can find a way to fix anything on my Defender, I've had a lifetime of experience.
So the thought of replacing the rear cross member with a galvanised part did not put me off, even when I read that removing the rear tank was hard.
Removing the rear tank was awkward, but not terrible.
... But amongst all the forums I can find there is no information about refitting the fuel tank, or more precisely the 'original' tank support/guard.
I have read that the assembly is fitted from above in the factory, but that isn't much help.
Has anyone achieved this, or can offer any advice on how to do it?
(Note I'm doing this solo, with the Landy on blocks.)
Thank you in advance.

Is this a TD5 ?

miktdish said:

Is this a TD5 ?

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Correct this is a 2010 TD5.

Thinking out loud, I wonder if I can separate and raise the back of the tub from the chassis by an inch or so, although that would involve loosening/removing the tub to chassis bolts along the top of the cross member, and with the tank back in place they would be hard to get to and do up. That and I guess a few more bolts would need loosening to get the lift required?

DefenderKeith said:

Correct this is a 2010 TD5.

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Didn't they stop making the TD5 in 2006? 2007 onwards is the Puma engine.

Wimblowdriver said:

Didn't they stop making the TD5 in 2006? 2007 onwards is the Puma engine.

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I should get my facts right SORRY its a 56 plate, so it is a 2006/7 TD5.
(Getting confused with the 2010 Shogun SWB the Landy has replaced on my drive).

You can buy a tank support which attaches from underneath.
It might by YRM who sell it.

Anaconda said:

You can buy a tank support which attaches from underneath.
It might by YRM who sell it.

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The original tank support is much better structurally, because the weight of the tank is held by the supporting plate. Whereas the aftermarket supports have the weight of the tank fully on the bolts.
Hence I would like to keep the original configuration.

You will need to cut an access hole in the tub floor. at some point you will need it to get at the pump etc.
As I said in another thread, measure twice and twice again and dont cut too deep as things are awfully close to the tubs floor pan.

DefenderKeith said:

The original tank support is much better structurally, because the weight of the tank is held by the supporting plate. Whereas the aftermarket supports have the weight of the tank fully on the bolts.
Hence I would like to keep the original configuration.

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Fine do it the hard way, I am sure the nuts and bolts would be strong enough to hold the fuel tank in, after all that's what hold all major mechanical parts to a car.
My tank has been out and back in with the original tank support so it can be done. When I have to do it then I will replace with the aftermarket one.

Anaconda said:

Fine do it the hard way, I am sure the nuts and bolts would be strong enough to hold the fuel tank in, after all that's what hold all major mechanical parts to a car.
My tank has been out and back in with the original tank support so it can be done. When I have to do it then I will replace with the aftermarket one.

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If your tank has been out and in, it can be done, it would be nice to record on the forum how it can be done, so that the more capable owners can do the job properly?

DefenderKeith said:

If your tank has been out and in, it can be done, it would be nice to record on the forum how it can be done, so that the more capable owners can do the job properly?

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Yes, that would be a good idea. Maybe you can start a thread, with photos, to show us what and what not to do.
Good thinking as I wouldn't want to cut a hole in the floor.

Firstly an apology, there are no photo's, and for context I did this following rear cross member replacement, not fuel pump replacement.
So building on my earlier thoughts above, I refitted the tank and support, it took about an hour including working out which bolts to remove.
In a nutshell, the way I did it was to raise the rear tub, you only need to raise it about 2cm, but the more lift you get the easier it is to refit.
First I slackened off the four bolts on the strip along the rear cross member(rather than the 10 on the strip), as far as I could without the nuts coming off, (as they would be very fiddly to put back in with the tank and guard on).
Then I removed the two bolts at the front of the rear wheel arch connecting the tubular outrigger to the body tub on both sides.
A bit further in on both sides was another bolt which I removed which also connected the tub to the chassis.
Then I got a trolley jack and lump of wood, and jacked up at a point in the centre of the tub, (in the point of the A-frame). With most of the chassis to tub bolts now removed or slackened (at the rear), it was possible to raise the the tub up to give me the 2cm clearance at the back, that I needed.
Then it was just a matter of prying/levering the supporting plate into position, firstly one side, then moving the tank and support back to locate the two cross member bolts, then the remaining side. It took about an hour.
Also worth noting that getting the tank and plate off would have been easier if I had lifted the tub first.
And I did slightly grind the leading edges of the supporting plate which were bent anyway after taking it off to ease re-fitting.
Also note, while the supporting plate was off I welded in two new stainless M10 bolts as the original mild steel ones had sheared when the nuts came off.