RodneyA

Active Member

• May 4, 2015

• #1

After getting a Genuine Defender 200Tdi engine for a great price I Started the process of rebuilding it earlier this year, I got it all stripped down but then was too busy at work to start the rebuild.

I've finally got the time So I've made a start on it.

First step was to get the block Re bored due to a scratch down one of the bores and to get the block cleaned.

I'm currently waiting on new Pistons, Rings, Conrod bearings, Main Bearings and Thrust washers coming from Turners.

The head is currently getting skimmed, Pressure tested and Valve's reground, Injectors and Turbo is also away getting tested.

My next step is to get the block painted black, Just waiting on the paint arriving, Should be here tomorrow

I also tested the Crank End float which is currently sitting at dead on 0.1mm, Between the 0.05 and 0.15 it should be, Is it worth brining the end float down closer to the 0.05 or is it fine at the 0.1 it is at at the moment.

Going to see The Avengers tomorrow so will be getting some painting done on Either Wednesday or Thursday

Chris

 

L

lynall

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• May 4, 2015

• #2

Having owned a few 200 over the years Ive often wondered how much better a newly rebuilt one goes?

 

RodneyA

Active Member

• May 4, 2015

• #3

Sadly I've no comparison, tho a Re Bored one will be slightly more powerful due to larger bores.

 

RodneyA

Active Member

• May 6, 2015

• #4

Got my head and other bits back today. Crank and cam got a polish. Injectors got tested and are working perfect. Head got pressure tested, skimmed, cleaned, valves reground and new valve stem oil seals.











Got the block nearly ready to spray. Just covering up all the holes ect.

 

L

lynall

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• May 6, 2015

• #5

Looking good.

 

C

clivecottrell1943

New Member

• May 6, 2015

• #6

Keep crank end float to Land Rover recommendations. To much end float and you start to load the conrods, and then reducing the clearance at the small end between rod and piston. There may be a fair amount of clearance here in any case but I'm sure you can understand how a problem may develop. Also check the ring gap, this is most important, never assume they are pre set. I generally find that one or two will always need added clearance. Don't want to preach to the converted but if you can get some oil pressure before firing up. Best of luck.

 

RodneyA

Active Member

• May 6, 2015

• #7

Thanks for the info bud, I'm still learning as I go so help is always appreciated. Just one Q, what do you mean by ring gap? are you referring to the spacing of the piston rings?

 

Kwakerman

Well-Known Member

• May 6, 2015

• #8

No, ring gap it the gap between both ends of a new ring when fitted inside the bore (use a piston to ensure the ring is square to the bore). Each ring has its own gap requirement, don't know what they are for a 200 but for the 300 it is 0.4 to 0.65mm (top ring), 0.3 to 0.5 for second ring and 0.3 to 0.6 for the oil ring to give you an idea. Too small a gap can result in ring failure, to large will lose compression.

 

RodneyA

Active Member

• May 7, 2015

• #9

Got around to spraying it today and I must say. It looks good

 

greyhair

Well-Known Member

• May 7, 2015

• #10

Looks really good
Would love to learn how to rebuild one
Also if you need the turbo rebuilding try Reco Turbo uk repair and remanufacture of turbochargers first class service and a good price

 

RodneyA

Active Member

• May 7, 2015

• #11

I am actually seeking somebody to recon my turbo. I've never seen it running so don't know if there is any problems with it, have you used them yourself? How much did they charge?

 

L

lynall

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• May 7, 2015

• #12

You can buy just the core unit yourself off of ebay and the like for way cheaper than a recon company and lets be honest thats what they probably do anyway!

 

RodneyA

Active Member

• May 8, 2015

• #13

Done a little work this morning before work.

Got the main bearings and crank installed.







Fitted the new Pistons to their conrod.



Did I tell you that I love shiny new parts

 

RodneyA

Active Member

• May 17, 2015

• #14

Just waiting for some new Piston Rings to arrive from turners, I accidentally broke one .

Got the rest of the engine ready to paint now.

Will have the painting done by Monday and new rings should be here by then also













Also got a new supply of my black latex

 

RodneyA

Active Member

• May 17, 2015

• #15

Just one wee question, does the shells go in where the wee notch are on the same side or opposite side on the con rods

 

Kwakerman

Well-Known Member

• May 17, 2015

• #16

Normally there should be a notch in one of the bearing shells, that notch should fit in the the other notch. Its purpose is to stop the bearing shells spinning in the conrod.

 

RodneyA

Active Member

• May 18, 2015

• #17

My new piston rings arrived from turners today so I managed to get the last piston installed





Also got the components painted silver including the head.

 

RodneyA

Active Member

• May 19, 2015

• #18

Got my head on today, I must say, it does look good

Just waiting on another shipment of bolts before I can continue.

 

L

lynall

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• May 19, 2015

• #19

Blacks better so you cant see the oil leaks!

 

RodneyA

Active Member

• May 22, 2015

• #20

Got the ladder Frame and oil pump installed, also got the timing cover on.