vilguy

Do'er of stuff and the like
The 200tdi in my 130 is playing silly buggers.

It started losing more and more power last week and eventually it cut out. It restarted and ran for a while again but wouldn't go above 60.

I discovered that the fuel leak had gotten worse so I've sorted that.nee fuel tank, sender and return. However it's still playing up.

It'll start after a fair bit of cranking but if I rev it it'll tail off abd die after a few seconds.

I've checked that the lift pump is working, even fitted a new one just in case, new fuel filter and still being annoying. I'm wondering if the injection pump is dying / blocked.

When running it's pretty smooth and if I just leave it idling it's fine.

No excessive smoke etc.

Any ideas?
 
Have you removed the stop solenoid and checked for swarf?
Bits of an arse to get at 24mm spanner cut down or a screwdriver used as a chisel works.
What are the fuel lines, rubber or hard plastic?
I would start from the beginning again (pita I know) at the tank and work your way forwards before blaming the inj pump, slightest air leak can cause all sorts of grief.
 
Replaced all the lines with new hoses bud.

Does seem to be the pump as when running I whipped off the fuel feed hose and it was really pressurised. Seems that the fuel isn't going into the pump.

I'll whip the solenoid out as you suggest. Fingers crossed it's something daft like that. Though if it's swarf in there doesn't that mean the head of the pump is breaking up?
 
Though if it's swarf in there doesn't that mean the head of the pump is breaking up?
Yup :(

Had that on my D1, sometimes wouldn't turn off with the key, removed solenoid from ip & there was swarf embedded in the plunger, used a magnet & small screwdriver to pick more fillings out :(

At least that remedied the engine ignition stopping :p

Problem caused by,
1. New tank sender unit fitted (previous owner??) & loose pipe unions :rolleyes:
2. Sedimentor removed & pipe badly joined:mad: (again a previous owner or "mechanic":rolleyes:)

Remedied by replacing fuel pipe from tank to engine lift-pump (actually used facet electric so self priming ) and replaced the injector pimp & injectors (pump degraded internally & injectors as precaution incase debris had traveled to them o_O)

Starts first compression now & pulls well, unfortunately the 'spare' Disco I'm semi-restoring / welding has a more powerful engine but I'm not swapping as it'll become a spares car :(

Rich.
 
Yeah my 110 has stopped ... err... stopping... on the key. I need to whip the solenoid on that as well.
Ive a set of injectors that I have stripped and ultrasonically cleaned sat in the shed, i should really strip the spare pump and rebuild it before fitting it, itd be bloody irritating to fit and find out its just as knackered as this one.
 
There's a wonderful tool that allows you to change the ip without disturbing the cambelt as it holds the ip pulley in place via the front covers inspection hole, think it's a LR item:cool:
I've got one of the egay copies with all the LR timing pins in a box and tried it on mine a few months ago, bloody godsend & time saver :)

If you haven't got one it's worth the £30 or so

Rich.
 
my 110 has a disco tdi in it, which i like with the fuel pump quite high up, and its dead easy to get to. The defender one is a bit more of a pain in the arse, i find with the coolant hoses in the way etc.
 
There is a restrictor in the banjo fitting for fuel return to tank of this is blocked it will give the symptom of over pressurised injection pump
 
Yeah, it's worth whipping out the return banjo and checking it isnt blocked. The hole in this banjo is much smaller than the hole in the flow banjos
Although they are interchangeable....not had them out and mixed them up have you?
Worth blowing back the lines too.
 

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