Saint.V8

Dyed-in-the-wool 100% RR Junkie
Full Member
Whilst this was done on our new Defender....there maybe some out there with a 200Tdi Classic....

She has always smoked DERV white in the few days we have had her and on occasions struggled to start, then when she did fire up, she was missing on a couple of pots until she warmed a bit!

After some research it seemed to point to lazy injectors or FIP timing.

So I bought the FIP timing kit which was delivered this morning and this evening set about timing the pump.

Dead simple!

Turn engine until Crank is TDC as per pulley mark.

Climb under and remove the Flywheel/Bellhousing wading plug....check the timing notch is central to hole and insert flywheel locking pin.

Remove the 3 bolts holding the pump pulley cover on.

Check with timing pin (9.5mm diameter) for pump timing position.

If needed, slacken the 3 bolts holding the timing wheel to the pulley.

Adjust until the pin slides in, then do up the bolts and jobs done!

Mine was the faintest hair out, I mean it was almost imperceptible, but what a difference, so far she has started on the button and the white smoke has gone!! (faint blue smoke still there, but that is next weeks job)....when I say it was out, it was such a miniscule amount you'd need a very accurate micrometer to measure the difference!!

I would advocate anyone who has white smoke to check their FIP timing, what an amazing difference (so far!!)
 

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Whilst this was done on our new Defender....there maybe some out there with a 200Tdi Classic....

She has always smoked DERV white in the few days we have had her and on occasions struggled to start, then when she did fire up, she was missing on a couple of pots until she warmed a bit!

After some research it seemed to point to lazy injectors or FIP timing.

So I bought the FIP timing kit which was delivered this morning and this evening set about timing the pump.

Dead simple!

Turn engine until Crank is TDC as per pulley mark.

Climb under and remove the Flywheel/Bellhousing wading plug....check the timing notch is central to hole and insert flywheel locking pin.

Remove the 3 bolts holding the pump pulley cover on.

Check with timing pin (9.5mm diameter) for pump timing position.

If needed, slacken the 3 bolts holding the timing wheel to the pulley.

Adjust until the pin slides in, then do up the bolts and jobs done!

Mine was the faintest hair out, I mean it was almost imperceptible, but what a difference, so far she has started on the button and the white smoke has gone!! (faint blue smoke still there, but that is next weeks job)....when I say it was out, it was such a miniscule amount you'd need a very accurate micrometer to measure the difference!!

I would advocate anyone who has white smoke to check their FIP timing, what an amazing difference (so far!!)

Yep very easy indeed. Bit different to one dickhead on here who said advance pump up til engine barks and then retard until it runs smooth. Personally i would be having a look at the belt Ant. :D:D:D
 
Yep very easy indeed. Bit different to one dickhead on here who said advance pump up til engine barks and then retard until it runs smooth. Personally i would be having a look at the belt Ant. :D:D:D
And a close look at the woodruff keys/keyways in the crank, I've also had a crank pulley fall to bits on my friends RRC down near Perpignan last year,had to fly bits out to him to nail it all back together.
Just bear in mind how old 200TDI's are now - good motor,but getting on in years...
 
And a close look at the woodruff keys/keyways in the crank, I've also had a crank pulley fall to bits on my friends RRC down near Perpignan last year,had to fly bits out to him to nail it all back together.
Just bear in mind how old 200TDI's are now - good motor,but getting on in years...

Yep good call. :);)
 
Yep very easy indeed. Bit different to one dickhead on here who said advance pump up til engine barks and then retard until it runs smooth. Personally i would be having a look at the belt Ant. :D:D:D

belt an pin is a crude setting you can get better by tuning pump setting
 
Cheers for the advice chaps.

Belt check is on the job list for the next week or so, and I'll check the woodruff key and key way too...

TVM.
 
belt an pin is a crude setting you can get better by tuning pump setting

And how is that done??

Everything I have read including the LR RAVE manuals, plus a bucket load of internet articles I have found all point to the pin locking the pump position...

Intrigued!
 
And how is that done??

Everything I have read including the LR RAVE manuals, plus a bucket load of internet articles I have found all point to the pin locking the pump position...

Intrigued!

look on your other thread , pin does lock the position but unlike dti set pumps etc its not exact
 
To paraphrase from the Defender thread...

The method is to use descending sized drill bits in 0.5mm increments and hold the pump pulley against the bits and run engine inbetween adjustments until you get knock, then go back to the previous bit size...
 
To paraphrase from the Defender thread...

The method is to use descending sized drill bits in 0.5mm increments and hold the pump pulley against the bits and run engine inbetween adjustments until you get knock, then go back to the previous bit size...

exactly , each engine varies:)
 
I was always told the vernier style pulley was for getting even tension when changing the belt and then for getting the engine to run the best you can afterwards . I always work on the rule of retard em slightly from when they knock . they seem to run smooth and have plenty of power doing it this way
 
not necessarily ,gears and a dti is more exact than belt and sloppy pins and allowing for case tolerances, it can make a noticeable difference from experience

As i said only if the pump is worn and has internal slop. Pump drive is locked to pump by the pin. Only internal slop can change that setting. Not as accurate as DTI timing for sure. But even with DTI timing last movement has to be in a certain direction depending on rotation to take up slop.
 
As i said only if the pump is worn and has internal slop. Pump drive is locked to pump by the pin. Only internal slop can change that setting. Not as accurate as DTI timing for sure. But even with DTI timing last movement has to be in a certain direction depending on rotation to take up slop.
there more variables than that ,a pin is an imprecise way of setting anything
 
I was always told the vernier style pulley was for getting even tension when changing the belt and then for getting the engine to run the best you can afterwards . I always work on the rule of retard em slightly from when they knock . they seem to run smooth and have plenty of power doing it this way

vernier is for setting more precisely than would manufactures tolerances give,
 
Not if it's good fit. Does this mean i can throw all my crank locking pins away and use trial and error? :D:D

a good fitting crank pin is a different thing as its one position to the result of pump timing which is the result of several other variables, try it on a tdi etc and youll see
 
a good fitting crank pin is a different thing as its one position to the result of pump timing which is the result of several other variables, try it on a tdi etc and youll see

All variables are eliminated by having an adjustable pulley. Only variable that is not taken into consideration using a pin to lock pump, is wear slop in pump internals. Setting the cam to 1.54 mm lift with a dti in the correct last movement direction sorts that out.
 
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