Saint.V8

Dyed-in-the-wool 100% RR Junkie
Full Member
Coming up to the first week of ownership with the Defender Ninety...200Tdi conversion (Disco engine).

She has always smoked DERV white in the few days we have had her and on occasions struggled to start, then when she did fire up, she was missing on a couple of pots until she warmed a bit!

After some research it seemed to point to lazy injectors or FIP timing.

So I bought the FIP timing kit which was delivered this morning and this evening set about timing the pump.

Dead simple!

Turn engine until Crank is TDC as per pulley mark.

Climb under and remove the Flywheel/Bellhousing wading plug....check the timing notch is central to hole and insert flywheel locking pin.

Remove the 3 bolts holding the pump pulley cover on.

Check with timing pin (9.5mm diameter) for pump timing position.

If needed, slacken the 3 bolts holding the timing wheel to the pulley.

Adjust until the pin slides in, then do up the bolts and jobs done!

Mine was the faintest hair out, I mean it was almost imperceptible, but what a difference, so far she has started on the button and the white smoke has gone!! (faint blue smoke still there, but that is next weeks job)....when I say it was out, it was such a miniscule amount you'd need a very accurate micrometer to measure the difference!!

I would advocate anyone who has white smoke to check their FIP timing, what an amazing difference (so far!!)
 

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Coming up to the first week of ownership with the Defender Ninety...200Tdi conversion (Disco engine).

She has always smoked DERV white in the few days we have had her and on occasions struggled to start, then when she did fire up, she was missing on a couple of pots until she warmed a bit!

After some research it seemed to point to lazy injectors or FIP timing.

So I bought the FIP timing kit which was delivered this morning and this evening set about timing the pump.

Dead simple!

Turn engine until Crank is TDC as per pulley mark.

Climb under and remove the Flywheel/Bellhousing wading plug....check the timing notch is central to hole and insert flywheel locking pin.

Remove the 3 bolts holding the pump pulley cover on.

Check with timing pin (9.5mm diameter) for pump timing position.

If needed, slacken the 3 bolts holding the timing wheel to the pulley.

Adjust until the pin slides in, then do up the bolts and jobs done!

Mine was the faintest hair out, I mean it was almost imperceptible, but what a difference, so far she has started on the button and the white smoke has gone!! (faint blue smoke still there, but that is next weeks job)....when I say it was out, it was such a miniscule amount you'd need a very accurate micrometer to measure the difference!!

I would advocate anyone who has white smoke to check their FIP timing, what an amazing difference (so far!!)

you can get optimum by using a 9.5mm drill bit as a pin and holding pulley clockwise against pin then do the 3 bolts up , then run engine and repeat with 9mm drill bit then 8.5 etc till you get knock then back a drill bit till knock jus goes
 
Gunna be attempting this myself in the next few weeks... am i right in saying the pump and pump pulley can be out of synch?
 
you can get optimum by using a 9.5mm drill bit as a pin and holding pulley clockwise against pin then do the 3 bolts up , then run engine and repeat with 9mm drill bit then 8.5 etc till you get knock then back a drill bit till knock jus goes

Ahhh...I see now...sounds simple enough!

Cheers JM
 
Same thing happened on mine a few years back (tho 300tdi).
Clouds white smoke when cold - 1/2 mm adjustment - all sorted! :clap2:
 
Cant figure out tapatalk but basically my drill bit wouldnt go in only half of the ole was showing i slackened the 3 nuts and turned the pump ACw it wouldnt go far enough for the bit to slot in so i removed the 3 bolts and the small plate came off i was able to turn the pump and insert the drillbit but now the bolts wont line up
 
Did you turn the pump itself or the pulley adjuster??

The only thing that should be adjusted is the pulley that sits under the inspection cover, not the pump....

Maybe JM can offer more of an insight as I am new to the 200Tdi engine....but I am sure moving the actual pump could be a no-no!!
 
Coming up to the first week of ownership with the Defender Ninety...200Tdi conversion (Disco engine).

She has always smoked DERV white in the few days we have had her and on occasions struggled to start, then when she did fire up, she was missing on a couple of pots until she warmed a bit!

After some research it seemed to point to lazy injectors or FIP timing.

So I bought the FIP timing kit which was delivered this morning and this evening set about timing the pump.

Dead simple!

Turn engine until Crank is TDC as per pulley mark.

Climb under and remove the Flywheel/Bellhousing wading plug....check the timing notch is central to hole and insert flywheel locking pin.

Remove the 3 bolts holding the pump pulley cover on.

Check with timing pin (9.5mm diameter) for pump timing position.

If needed, slacken the 3 bolts holding the timing wheel to the pulley.

Adjust until the pin slides in, then do up the bolts and jobs done!

Mine was the faintest hair out, I mean it was almost imperceptible, but what a difference, so far she has started on the button and the white smoke has gone!! (faint blue smoke still there, but that is next weeks job)....when I say it was out, it was such a minuscule amount you'd need a very accurate micrometer to measure the difference!!

I would advocate anyone who has white smoke to check their FIP timing, what an amazing difference (so far!!)

I would agree that this is a good thing to check but I wouldn't spend money on that kit just for this. Good kit to have for a timing belt or to remove the injection pump without messing with the timing but over the top to do the injection pump timing.

You can just use a drill but in the pulley (doesn't matter where the engine is sitting, i.e. no need to set it to TDC) that fits in snug the way you find it, you work out if you want to advance or retard it and choose a drill bit about 1mm smaller or larger and tweak it till it fits. If you get it wrong you can go back to the way you found it by placing the original drill bit into the hole.

I then just loosen the nuts and turn the pump on the main pulley nut, the belt holds the pulley still but I held it too, I make sure I have not gone too far by gauging it with a drill bit. Tighten up the three bolts then start her up and see how it fells. Once you try it all out and do it yourself you will soon be able to do it almost by feel.

I improved my starting, improved my MPG and reduced running smoke by tweaking it twice, I decided the first time I went to far and took it back a smidge.
 
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Figured it out... my pump needs advanced to fit the drill bit in but wont advamce the extra 3mm i need tried turning the crank pulley with the 3 bolts slack to see if could get the extra bit of movement... no use made it worse so i just messed about with it without the drill bit and ive got it sounding very quiet driving normally and not smoking so im happy for now..
anybody got any idea why the pump wont advance enough and what needs done to fix this?
 
Figured it out... my pump needs advanced to fit the drill bit in but wont advamce the extra 3mm i need tried turning the crank pulley with the 3 bolts slack to see if could get the extra bit of movement... no use made it worse so i just messed about with it without the drill bit and ive got it sounding very quiet driving normally and not smoking so im happy for now..
anybody got any idea why the pump wont advance enough and what needs done to fix this?

its quite common when fitting cam belt to fit it so enough advance cant be obtained ,you need to take belt off and refit with pulley in position to allow it ,if you wedge cam belt against crank pulley and canm pulle you should get enough slack with tensioner released to turn pump pulley a tooth
 
its quite common when fitting cam belt to fit it so enough advance cant be obtained ,you need to take belt off and refit with pulley in position to allow it ,if you wedge cam belt against crank pulley and canm pulle you should get enough slack with tensioner released to turn pump pulley a tooth

So it really is as simple as turn the pump a little bit while the belt is off and refit belt then the pump can be adjusted? Give that a whirl on friday then thanks james
 

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