Hard-Drive

Active Member
I've got an 1986 110 that was originally a 2.5 NA but had a Disco 200Tdi engine thrown in the general direction of the engine bay before I bought it. Over the past few weeks I've replaced the fried starter motor, fitted a full Tdi exhuast system including Steve Parker downpipe, and today I've fitted a Steve Parker air filter kit. However I'm looking for a bit of advice from anyone who has done this before. I think some of my challenges are because my 110 is pre-Defender so does not have any wing vents. The original air intake was just a "trumpet" going into the side of the air filter.

General view of everything in place...yes that is a 200Tdi, hiding under a 300Tdi noise cover thingy.
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Now the intake pipe is supposed to be pointing down, however my alternator is in the way, and obviously there's nothing to connect to it anyway. So I've rotated it by 90 degrees, and I plan to run a hose over the top of the engine and install a Southdown snorkel for a 300Tdi on the o/s wing. Thoughts? As you can see below, the hose across the engine has a nice clear run and no kinks/angles needed to get to the air cleaner. Oh, and I assume the "line up the arrows" thing on the air cleaner is to make sure that the water drain valve thing is pointing downwards? If I'm adding a snorkel and have any intention of going swimming I presumably need to remove this valve. Any thoughts on how to replace it? I was thinking weld a short piece of pipe in, with a "tap" that can be closed before swimming? Leave open for normal use, with the valve in place just under the tap?

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Next issue is stabilising the whole air intake pipework assembly. I'll be honest...for an expensive kit I would like to have seen all brackets and supports and rather less "fabricate a bracket" in the instructions but there's no denying it's a well made kit that fits the engine bay very well. So my plan here was to buy a longer allen bolt, drill a hole in the inner wing, and probably with some rubber grommets just poke the clamp bolt all the way through the inner wing, and have a nut either side of the inner wing to get the positioning right. Anyone have a better idea?

After that is the dipstick. It has to be bent forwards to clear the new air cleaner. A semi-acceptable bodge here would be to adjust the existing bracket at the top of the dipstick tube (that usually bolts onto the side of the inlet manifold) and simpt jubilee clip it around the ally part of the inlet manifold, in this pic between the hose and the 300Tdi engine cover. Anyone got a more elegant solution?

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Washer bottle...struggling to mount this anywhere. On the O/S inner wing there's lots of things like the PAS reservoir, so I was thinking of running a piece of "meccano" style drilled steel between the mounting for the expansion tank and the bonnet stay base, and mounting it roughly like so....

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Anyone have a better idea? Or is there a well fitting washer bottle off another vehicle that would perhaps sit in the space behind a headlight, that has a long filler neck?

Next job...fan. It's currently running the standard viscous fan with no shroud. I have a very accurate SPA combined water and oil temp gauge and at the moment, even in summer, it rarely gets much above 65 degrees (oil and water are usually within a few degrees of each other too). So I was thinking of fitting a fairly cheap electric fan. I don't want to splash out hundered on a Revotec as let's face it, it will hardly ever switch on anyway! Any experiences/advice here? Lots of space as you can see!

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Probably just worth showing this too...part of the old bodged up air cleaner arrangement. Now that I have got rid of restrictive crap like this, (and even worse bodgery on the old exhaust) the thing goes like the absolute bloody clappers...seriously impressed what a difference the Steve Parker stuff has made to it.

Anyway...over to you...any advice much appreciated!
 
With the fan, would the twin electric fans for the air con system from a disco work?
Should be cheap enough
 
If it helps, you could fit a TD5 under wing washer bottle to free up some space. A search should reveal the part code.
 
Just an observation but will an intake pipe fit across the top of an engine with the bonnet closed? My 90 (1988) has the washer bottle under the off side front wing.
I thought the rubber bung thingy sealed itself with the air pressure difference inside the air intake housing when the engine is running.
 
Owas...thanks...but how would these sense the water temperature? I guess I'm looking for more of a "kit" that has everything in. Would one of these fit the bill? I know it's bottom end stuff, but TBH the engine runs so cool it hardly seems worth spending any more!

Sp00k...good shout...a bit of googling looking for a TD5 bottle shows there's an earlier cheaper option...PRC3786. Reckon I'll try this.

Marmaduke...using the highly unscientific method of looking through the gap between the bonnet and wing, I think it will be OK to be honest. I'll get the measurements from Southdown and try something a bit more scientific to be sure. On the Southdown website he calls the rubber valve a "dump valve" and says they often fail, so I think I'd rather get rid of or modify it in some way...
 
'An 11 inch fan is plenty big enough for normal duty. If your donor Disco has air conditioning you will find some more useful bits on it - two 11 inch fans on the front of the heat exchanger, and a thermostat housing with a 94 degree thermostatic switch built in'

Copied from glencoyne,
I have all the bits chopped out my old scrap disco 'just in case', looks like theyll be handy for my conversion.
 
I always thought the lack of wing vents was on a V8 only. you live an learn...

But, the older 90's and 110's had an air filter at the front of the engine, sat upright on a tripod type of thing on the front crossmember on the chassis. I had to get rid of mine when I did my conversion as I was using a Defener R380 which didn't give me any room on front of the engine for the airbox. Might be worth looking into that?

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However your intercooler might get in the way I suppose...
 
tetsu0san...thanks anyway but that tripod arrangement is exactly what I've removed as it won't fit properly with everything else in. The above pictures are of my installation...the shiny black stuff is the new air cleaner...
 
So my plan here was to buy a longer allen bolt, drill a hole in the inner wing, and probably with some rubber grommets just poke the clamp bolt all the way through the inner wing, and have a nut either side of the inner wing to get the positioning right. Anyone have a better idea?

Nice looking job Hard drive. The bolt/rubber mounts for the N/A fan cowling sound ideal for this. ETC4993, £95p http://www.paddockspares.com/etc4993-flexi-mounting.html
I'd stick with the viscous fan, they are more powerful than the electric and it's one less thing to go wrong.
 
Very neat job, some you see are right messy jobs.
Viscous fan with no shroud is pointless.
The ebay cheap 16inch universale elec fans are good enough, Ive got two on two different cars both still work fine 5 yrs later, one has been submerged many times.
65degc is to cold, suggest you need a new stat and NOT a britpart one as they are utter junk.
 
Thanks for the comments guys. We're not done yet...I've spoken to Southdown, done some tests with an old bit of Disco air hose, and there's just enough room over the top of the engine for the Southdown hose so I've ordered the snorkel for the o/s wing.

I also have a new rad top hose to replace the bodged up one, and ditto the bottom one. I have a timing belt kit and will do this at the same time.

WRT the fan, I just have a bit of an aversion to wasting BHP spinning a fan unnecessarily, especially in winter. I'll probably go with an eBay one then lynall if you reckon they work, and perhaps have the viscous one and a spanner under the back seat with the tools just in case!

Any recommendations on the thermostat then? Another job for the same time as the timing belt! And what about antifreeze...is there a specific type?
 
With regards to the fan and cooling, there are a lot of people who say you can happily run the engine without one. I suppose a lot depends on engine condition, pipe condition and more importantly radiator condition but unless you are running with the fan shroud I would say that your fan is too far away from the radiator to make a lot of difference anyway. So for the fan to actually make a difference you will probably have to either fit the shroud or fit a couple of electric ones. Personally I haven't run a fan on my engine for 2 years now and even in the really hot weather we had last summer I never overheated and the temp gauge was always fine.
 
Thanks for the comments guys. We're not done yet...I've spoken to Southdown, done some tests with an old bit of Disco air hose, and there's just enough room over the top of the engine for the Southdown hose so I've ordered the snorkel for the o/s wing.

I also have a new rad top hose to replace the bodged up one, and ditto the bottom one. I have a timing belt kit and will do this at the same time.

WRT the fan, I just have a bit of an aversion to wasting BHP spinning a fan unnecessarily, especially in winter. I'll probably go with an eBay one then lynall if you reckon they work, and perhaps have the viscous one and a spanner under the back seat with the tools just in case!

Any recommendations on the thermostat then? Another job for the same time as the timing belt! And what about antifreeze...is there a specific type?


Recommended stat was made by waxstat but I believe no longer available, so not sure what people are using no, bear in mind the 200 stat has the extra bit to shut off the bypass pipe so needs to be the right one.
 
The waxstat seems to be available for the 300tdi, but not the 200. Same temp, and they look the same.
 
Some very interesting posts in this thread, :), and i don't have much to add... two comments I would make are that I would firstly just be aware that your alternator requires some air to it to cool it - by design its in the "wrong" place - would be better where the AC pump goes, as right in front of the blower/ exhaust down pipe is less than good - plus of course the standard heat shield falls off for a living, and this doesn't help. Steve parker do a kit to move it to this position, and you might like to consider this - it might save you a bit of space - your alternator will certainly breathe a sigh of relief !!

Sadly I have learnt this the hard way on my tuned 300 :rolleyes:

Second point is that the rubber valve on the air cleaner body is, AFAIK, called a "birds mouth".
 
Some very interesting posts in this thread, :), and i don't have much to add... two comments I would make are that I would firstly just be aware that your alternator requires some air to it to cool it - by design its in the "wrong" place - would be better where the AC pump goes, as right in front of the blower/ exhaust down pipe is less than good - plus of course the standard heat shield falls off for a living, and this doesn't help. Steve parker do a kit to move it to this position, and you might like to consider this - it might save you a bit of space - your alternator will certainly breathe a sigh of relief !!

Sadly I have learnt this the hard way on my tuned 300 :rolleyes:

Second point is that the rubber valve on the air cleaner body is, AFAIK, called a "birds mouth".

Funny, the heatshield on my ex-disco 200 literally fell apart in my hand - I though it was just me! I must make another. At least without the radiator shroud the alternator should be getting a bit of air flow.
 
Funny, the heatshield on my ex-disco 200 literally fell apart in my hand - I though it was just me! I must make another. At least without the radiator shroud the alternator should be getting a bit of air flow.

LR heat shields of this era were made of reject chocolate IME :(:eek::mad: - the cheapo ebay replacements seem to last pretty well tho...:)
 

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