zeaphod · Nov 12, 2016

There are plenty of good threads covering the process, I thought I'd just add a few details and photos that are usually covered by one line.
For example, converting the discovery flywheel housing to fit a defender (or 90 in my case) bell housing.

First thing to do is remove the stud at 8 o'clock. I used a stud extractor to loosen it, then it just pulled out with a pair of pliers.

Then you need to drill and tap 4 stud positions - around 4 o'clock and the three bottom ones. The holes are already partly drilled at 9mm. I drilled them all to 15mm deep at 9mm, then at 9.5 mm before tapping at 10mm.

This is the one around 4 o'clock. You can see the existing stud position which does not match the bellhousing.

and the finished position.

I found a 10mm drill bit in the nearest position useful to keep the drilling and tapping straight.

zeaphod · Nov 12, 2016

Another little job is shortening the exhaust studs. Some people remove them and use 10mm bolts instead, but mine would have sheared before loosening, so they were cut to fit. This is not essential, but will make access to the starter motor easier.

Before and after.

I took the sharp edges off with a file to finish - saves cutting youself when wiring up the starter.

frog hopper · Nov 13, 2016

Good thread, though I'm never likely to do this. Did think your placement of a drill bit to help as a guide a bloody good idea, why have I never thought of doing that?

zeaphod · Nov 13, 2016

Thanks, yes the drill bit was a good visual guide.

David_Cooper · Nov 13, 2016

Good tips. As someone who's spent months doing the best 200TDi conversion I can to my 1990 110 CSW, I'd say it's not a job to be rushed if you want it to be reliable.
I've been using the brilliant guide on the Glencoyne site- http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/tdiguide.htm

It sure is close on the nearside, by the bulkhead..

I was worried about heat on the starter too, so re-hashed the heat shield!-

It runs now, but I want everything sorted before the wings go back on. Still lots to do. I have no desire to constantly be under the bonnet in the ****ing rain.

zeaphod · Nov 14, 2016

Looks good David - I appreciate the photos - they will be a big help when it comes to connecting up the fuel system. A couple of questions: Where did you get the reflective foil for the bulkhead? How hard was "clocking" the turbo?

David_Cooper · Nov 14, 2016

The reflective foil is actually the standard sound deadening. Maybe only fitted to county station wagons. It's about a cm thick. I don't think it makes a lot of difference to be honest and makes the downpipe even closer to the body..
Clocking the turbo is pretty simple. I didn't remove anything off the turbo apart from the actuator.
Put the turbo securely in a vice. Get a pal to hold the tension off the big circlip with suitable pliers. Using a bar in the turbo casting, rotate the housing. You need to drill and tap two threads for the actuator to bolt into the correct position. I used a pillar drill and if you rotate the housing to just the right position, the drill has enough clearance to go past the turbo body, and get the right spot on the ally casting.
Sounds fiddly, but simple in practice! When you've drilled & tapped both holes, rotate the casting to your desired position.

zeaphod · Nov 14, 2016

Thanks again David, I'll have a go at the turbo this week . Boxes are starting to arrive - new radiator and a setime of conversation water hoses. starting to feel a bit more confident about trying this solo.

David_Cooper · Nov 14, 2016

Sounds good. I have the custom Steve Parkers bottom radiator hose, but am using standard Defender 200TDI parts for the rest. Intercooler hoses are still not sorted. One step at a time for me!!

lynall · Nov 14, 2016

Very smart install.

Couple of points the crimp clips you have used on the rubber hoses are okay on serrated tails on smooth pipe could be problems, but if you have issues up the road will be a real pita to work with whereas jubilee clips are a doddle, also any clip should be fitted so theres approx 1/4 to 1/2 inch of rubber to the end of the hose, I would also replace the filter to lift pump pipe as any joiner is a source of future trouble, have you fitted an insert into the nlyon pipe before crimping the hose?

David_Cooper · Nov 14, 2016

Thanks Lynall, I had the alternator shield too but am using the alternator from the 110 so I can fit the original wiring loom without cutting off the plug. The 19J alternator needs 'clocking' to fit the 200TDI Disco engine, but it's just a case of removing the long bolts, turning the casing round and doing it back up again

lynall · Nov 15, 2016

You will find its all the same alternator (A127) but theres different amperages and different plugs set up available all can be made to fit each other.
I think disco one is 70 amp, the one on my 90 is either 45 or 55 amp and the disco engine runs and maintains a better voltage than the 90.

Anyway you had better get your arse in gear and get it finished because if the weather is going to be as bad as they say you wont want to miss out.

David_Cooper · Nov 15, 2016

Yes you're quite right, the 19J alt is 55a. My reasons for using it was mainly because the 110 alternator was nearly new and plugged in with no fussing. I also run 200 (and 300..

) TDI Discoverys so thought the original 200 alternator would make a good spare!

Unfortunately I don't get much time on the project, only a few hours a week after work.. it's ok though, it's only been 'resting' since 2014

Zeaphod, if you want any pictures of the details, just let me know.

zeaphod · Nov 15, 2016

David_Cooper said:
Yes you're quite right, the 19J alt is 55a. My reasons for using it was mainly because the 110 alternator was nearly new and plugged in with no fussing. I also run 200 (and 300..) TDI Discoverys so thought the original 200 alternator would make a good spare!

Unfortunately I don't get much time on the project, only a few hours a week after work.. it's ok though, it's only been 'resting' since 2014

Zeaphod, if you want any pictures of the details, just let me know.

A kind offer sir, I think I'll be in touch . I have bought the bottom hose kit from Steve Parker too. Do you have the part numbers of the oil cooler hoses you are using by any chance?

David_Cooper · Nov 15, 2016

Oil cooler hoses can be a bit of a nightmare- there's a couple of ways of doing it but everything has to match. The main issue is how the fittings seal, early- face fit, later- 'o' ring seal.

I'm getting all parts together to use the earlier, face-fit setup.

using a 19J filter housing (ERR1347) Also used on 200TDi Discos to 1992ish
19J upper pipe (ESR280)
19J lower pipe (ESR281)
early type radiator fittings (NTC2858).

You can go later setup also-
200TDi filter housing (ERR2711) 'o' ring fittings
Defender 200TDi upper pipe (ESR1912)
Defender 200TDi lower pipe (ESR1913)
later type rad fittings (ESR1262).

If you're converting a 19J Land Rover or military one, you'll have all the right stuff already. If not, you'll need to start searching! Disco hoses are too short, 300TDi hoses are shaped differently but you could modify these to fit. Most important thing is to get everything sitting right, without fouling the steering box or bottom radiator hose.
If you're an idiot like me, you'll let the early type filter housing go when you get rid of the old boat anchor engine and spend months looking for another one!!

lynall · Nov 15, 2016

David_Cooper said:
Yes you're quite right, the 19J alt is 55a. My reasons for using it was mainly because the 110 alternator was nearly new and plugged in with no fussing. I also run 200 (and 300..) TDI Discoverys so thought the original 200 alternator would make a good spare!

Unfortunately I don't get much time on the project, only a few hours a week after work.. it's ok though, it's only been 'resting' since 2014

Zeaphod, if you want any pictures of the details, just let me know.

That looks in really good nick

zeaphod · Nov 16, 2016

David_Cooper said:
Oil cooler hoses can be a bit of a nightmare- there's a couple of ways of doing it but everything has to match. The main issue is how the fittings seal, early- face fit, later- 'o' ring seal.

I'm getting all parts together to use the earlier, face-fit setup.

using a 19J filter housing (ERR1347) Also used on 200TDi Discos to 1992ish
19J upper pipe (ESR280)
19J lower pipe (ESR281)
early type radiator fittings (NTC2858).

You can go later setup also-
200TDi filter housing (ERR2711) 'o' ring fittings
Defender 200TDi upper pipe (ESR1912)
Defender 200TDi lower pipe (ESR1913)
later type rad fittings (ESR1262).

If you're converting a 19J Land Rover or military one, you'll have all the right stuff already. If not, you'll need to start searching! Disco hoses are too short, 300TDi hoses are shaped differently but you could modify these to fit. Most important thing is to get everything sitting right, without fouling the steering box or bottom radiator hose.
If you're an idiot like me, you'll let the early type filter housing go when you get rid of the old boat anchor engine and spend months looking for another one!!

Another great answer, thanks. I'm converting a 12j, so need to get everything. The rad has arrived, and seems to have the adapters already fitted, so it looks like I need the later defender pipes.
I notice that they are a lot more expensive than the disco equivalents - £35 instead of £11 per hose - typical! I took the turbo off last night (only cut myself once) - pics to follow for those who haven't tried it yet.

David_Cooper · Nov 16, 2016

Do check the adaptors, both early and late setups need them, but obviously they're of different design. They are a cone/ taper fit in the rad and if you don't have to disturb them, I wouldn't.
Look forward to seeing some more pics.

zeaphod · Nov 17, 2016

Turbo removed one night this week. Apologies for the photos, I was working by torch on the patio.

Ok, first remove the clip that holds the actuating rod on - screwdriver and a pair of pliers.

Then remove the vacuum connections - pair of pliers.

Now you can remove the turbo gate actuator - two 10mm machine screws, I used a 10mm bi-hex ring. they're not too tight, but are on with thread lock.

Now loosen the upper and lower oil feed pipes. The upper is 13mm (I used a deep hex socket), the lower was an odd size - I used a good quality adjustable, but it's probably a 22mm open ended spanned job. Then you're ready to tackle the 4 13mm nuts holding the turbo to the manifold. The top two can be reached with a socket, the bottom two can be a real PITA. The front one is best tackled with a six point ring spanner (wish I had one lol) but rearmost one is positioned so that you can't even get a ring spanner on it. being rusty and worn, I ended up using a small chisel to get it moving, then a combination of 12 and 13mm open ended spanners. Classic Landy stuff.

David_Cooper · Nov 18, 2016

Good pics. Those rusty bolts that fix the turbo to the manifold caused me real grief too, especially that inaccessible one you mention. I've refitted mine with plain nuts and spring washers, tightened up just enough..
If you 'clock' the turbo, it's handy to shorten the small metal vacuum pipe so it clears the back of the alternator nicely.

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