Paxmanmerv

Active Member

• Wednesday at 10:33

• #1

Morning all!
Gotta replace the rear cross member on our Puma 90. Guess the fuel tank needs to come out to gain access for welding etc.
Any pointers, hints, tips etc to get the tank out?
Many thanks one & all!

 

Wimblowdriver

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Wednesday at 14:23

• #2

Which engine - 2.2 0r 2.4? I have the official workshop manuals on my laptop and can post the relevant pages if you need them.

The Haynes manual is better (for a change), with decent pictures and a spanner rating of one spanner. However the author notes that on the 90, although LR info states the tank can be removed from under the vehicle, they found there was not enough room to move the tank forwards, (and therefore downwards). The only way they suggested it could be done was to raise the body off the chassis and take the tank out through the top.
Arm yourself with the Haynes and give it a go? (and post an update as to how far you got ).

 

Paxmanmerv

Active Member

• Wednesday at 15:37

• #3

Thanks for that, its the lovely 2.4 Ford motor.. Lifting the body sounds a bit drastic! Might neeed to cut the floor out instead..

 

Paxmanmerv

Active Member

• Wednesday at 15:38

• #4

Just out of curiosity, is the tank removal proceedure different on the 2.2 & 2.4 models?

 

Wimblowdriver

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Wednesday at 16:37

• #5

As far as I know they both have the same removal procedure. The only difference between the two is what's inside the tank, they have different sender units. Can't remember which way round it is, but one has an electric pump built into the sender unit - I think that is the 2.2. I will check -----.
One thing of note in the Haynes is -- you need to remove the bolts on the anti roll bar and swing it out of the way.

Edit; the 2.2 has the electric pump.

 

Last edited: Wednesday at 16:47

Wimblowdriver

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Wednesday at 16:50

• #6

From the 2.4 workshop manual;

 

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A

Anaconda

Well-Known Member

• Wednesday at 19:24

• #7

I would be amazed if the body has to come off.
Is it much different to a TD5?

 

Wimblowdriver

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Wednesday at 20:13

• #8

Anaconda said:

I would be amazed if the body has to come off.
Is it much different to a TD5?

Click to expand...

The tanks have different part numbers, that's all I know. I'd also be surprised if the body has to be lifted. I might have a crawl under my landy tomorrow and see if there's anything obvious to stop the tank being dropped out.

 

Paxmanmerv

Active Member

• Thursday at 08:55

• #9

Wimblowdriver said:

From the 2.4 workshop manual;

Click to expand...

Thats pretty awesome! Thanks for that. Let battle commence!

 

Paxmanmerv

Active Member

• Yesterday at 09:56

• #10

UPDATE..
Got stuck in & things didnt go as planned.. Towbar off, nuts & bolts off the fuel tank cradle then tried to get it out. Looks simple enough, the tank sits on a plate that has 4 bolt, 2 each side & 2 nuts accessable through the cross member. Very little movement. Looked a bit deeper & there is a rubber buffer each side of the tank to prevent sideways movement. They are below the join in the tank which stops it coming down. Also means that the tank cannot be moved sideways to get the fuel filler out of the chassis. Looks like the only way is out of the top by lifting the front of the tank first pivoting on the tank filler until the tank is clear of the buffers then it would slide out easy enough. Oh well, back to the drawing board..

 

Wimblowdriver

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Yesterday at 10:23

• #11

I did a bit of research (but not enough yet), it appears the 2.2 and 2.4 tanks for the 90 are different - when looking at the attached web info. And the 2.4 had a revised tank at some point. Wonder if there was a change so the tank could be dropped out on later models? I need to research more ---

Fuel System Diagrams - Find Land Rover parts at LR Workshop

Browse 51 Land Rover Fuel System Diagrams, including Evap Loss Catch Tank, Evap Loss Control System, Evap Loss Control System, Evap Loss Control System, Evap Loss Hoses, Evap Loss Hoses

www.lrworkshop.com

 

Paxmanmerv

Active Member

• Yesterday at 10:48

• #12

Fuel tank fixings & a pretty rubbish pic of the buffers I was on about. But I did find out that an aerosol paint can cap works well to keep the dirt out of the tank once the filler hose is removed so not a total waste I guess

 

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Wimblowdriver

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Yesterday at 11:56

• #13

If you've drained the fuel out of the tank I suspect you'll need to bleed the fuel system before start up. Useful thread in the Puma Engines section of the forum ------

Fuel filter change and bleeding

Due to change the fuel filter (genuine item ordered). I know I will need to purge the air out of the low pressure feed side and plan to fill the new filter with diesel when fitting it. When it comes to purging the remaining air out of the low pressure feed line I can't see how this can be...

www.landyzone.co.uk

 

Paxmanmerv

Active Member

• Yesterday at 12:53

• #14

Wimblowdriver said:

If you've drained the fuel out of the tank I suspect you'll need to bleed the fuel system before start up. Useful thread in the Puma Engines section of the forum ------

Fuel filter change and bleeding

Due to change the fuel filter (genuine item ordered). I know I will need to purge the air out of the low pressure feed side and plan to fill the new filter with diesel when fitting it. When it comes to purging the remaining air out of the low pressure feed line I can't see how this can be...

www.landyzone.co.uk

Click to expand...

Thats going to be invaluable! Many thanks.
Anyway, What ever happens, tank needs to come out.
My options are;
1, Body off. Not a weekend job..
2, Chop a big hole in the floor to get it out.
3, Chop the fuel tank carrier brackets off & weld back on once job done..
Any other options to consider before the grinder comes out?..

 

Wimblowdriver

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Yesterday at 13:05

• #15

Paxmanmerv said:

2, Chop a big hole in the floor to get it out.
3, Chop the fuel tank carrier brackets off & weld back on once job done..

Click to expand...

Don't know the details so could be talking rubbish here, but can the floor be removed without lifting the body? And could the tank carrier brackets be altered / remade to bolt-on? maybe with rivnuts employed? this would save having to weld back on.

 

Paxmanmerv

Active Member

• Yesterday at 14:55

• #16

Wimblowdriver said:

Don't know the details so could be talking rubbish here, but can the floor be removed without lifting the body? And could the tank carrier brackets be altered / remade to bolt-on? maybe with rivnuts employed? this would save having to weld back on.

Click to expand...

Good call there Sir! Floor can come out, 9" cutter will soon do that. Do like the idea of bolting the tank mount brackets back on. Think i'm going to try that on this one & will keep you updated.

 

Wimblowdriver

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Yesterday at 15:16

• #17

Watch out for cables, pipes etc when using the grinder. Fire extinguisher on standby. And don't slice through the tank, they ain't cheap.