driftwoodmeg

New Member
Hi, can anyone tell me which engine would be in my Freelander 2. I can upload a photo if this helps.
I have had to take the Landy off the road as had a seriously loud top end engine noise and my suspicion is that it could be a broken swirl flap or 2 sucked into head. I can't find anyone who will look at this for me, garages now days just seem to want the easy work and nothing too difficult. If anyone can help me find any workshop manuals to work on the engine or videos how to remove the plastic manifold which holds theses annoying swirl flaps or even head removal would be greatly appreciated, many thanks Rod.
 
The engine in the FL2 diesel is a PSA DW12, as used in several PSA vehicles, and the 2.2L diesel Mk4 Ford Mondeo.

There are service manuals available to download on this forum.

If it's ingested a swirl flap, it's very likely that valves have been damaged, and possibly a piston and maybe even the head.

It's not a particularly difficult engine to work on, but parts are expensive, especially things like good condition second hand cylinder heads, although it's very likely yours could be repaired well enough to make it functional.
 
The engine in the FL2 diesel is a PSA DW12, as used in several PSA vehicles, and the 2.2L diesel Mk4 Ford Mondeo.

There are service manuals available to download on this forum.

If it's ingested a swirl flap, it's very likely that valves have been damaged, and possibly a piston and maybe even the head.

It's not a particularly difficult engine to work on, but parts are expensive, especially things like good condition second hand cylinder heads, although it's very likely yours could be repaired well enough to make it functional.
Hi thanks for your help with my engine problem. I have tried to find a manual on this forum but as I am new to this cant seem to find the one for my Freelander (2008). Could you help with this just to make sure got correct one for this engine, many thanks...
 
Thanks for this link I have downloaded the manual. Another question for you, is it possible to remove the cylinder head from my FL2 (PSA DW12) engine with it left in vehicle or does engine need to be removed.....
 
is it possible to remove the cylinder head from my FL2 (PSA DW12) engine with it left in vehicle or does engine need to be removed.....
Yes. I've done it twice on mine, and I'm getting coolant pressurisation, so I'm looking at doing it a 3rd time.:eek:

The only part that can't be removed with engine in situ is the crankshaft, everything else can be done with the block in the engine bay.
 
Yes. I've done it twice on mine, and I'm getting coolant pressurisation, so I'm looking at doing it a 3rd time.:eek:

The only part that can't be removed with engine in situ is the crankshaft, everything else can be done with the block in the engine bay.
Thanks for the feedback. In your experience of removing the head are there any special tools needed to do this and also any real problematic parts which are difficult to remove. I have had look at the exhaust manifold and that looks like a real awkward job. Any information will be really helpful for me, thanks.....
 
The whole job is long winded if I'm honest. I did the head swap in a couple of days, not full days though.
Special tools needed are the cam timing tools. You'll also need a set of E Torx sockets (Female Torx), and unless you're 6'6, you'll need something to stand on to reach down the back of the engine.
I strip it from front to back, which gets most of the suff that is in the way of EGR and exhaust manifold out the way. The exhaust manifold requires the removal of the studs in the head, then it can be lifted straight up. It also helps to remove the engine bay bulkhead panel, to give more room down the back.
It's a lot of work, which needs a careful and methodical approach, to avoid complications half way through.
Because the timing belt is being removed, you'll need to remove the starter and fit the timing tools. You must also fit a flywheel locking tool in place of the starter, so the flywheel can't turn when you loosen the bottom pulley bolt. Be warned that these can be extremely difficult to remove, and sometimes break too which makes a whole world of pain to deal with.

Get lots of zip lock bags and label them for components removed. I group bolts together in bags, to prevent mixing them up, as there are lots of different fixings used.
Every cam follower and hydraulic tappet needs to be labelled in separate bags, so they go back from whence they came. If it has a noisy tappet or two, it's worth getting a few new replacement rockers (they're not expensive), as they are known to wear at the valve end, or the spring go loose on the other.

The fuel rail is best removed with the injectors all in one unit if possible, as this saves buying new injector pipes. However sometimes the injectors can seize in solid, in which case you'll have to remove the fuel rail first, but only release the injector ends of the pipes.

You'll need to support the engine from below at the hight you want to work at, as the RH support mount needs releasing from the head. The the ancillary support bracket also needs some of the upper bolts removing, as those go into the head.

Take lots of pictures as you go, and print out the manual for procedures, torque settings/sequences and sealant specifications needed for the job.
Also make sure to get the correct thickness head gasket, there are holes to identify thickness in the tabs, so get the same as what came out, and get an OE, gasket which I didn't.
You'll also need a new timing belt kit, and it's sensible to replace stuff that is otherwise hard to get at with the head in place, like the thermal control module (thermostat).
I didn't and I'm thinking mine isn't opening correctly, causing my boiling issue, at least I'd like it to the case, I fear not However.

Good luck, and ask if you need to know anything else.
 
Thanks for this feedback, this will certainly help me a great deal sorting this out. Yes I will contact you if I need anymore further help with this, thanks again......
 

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