Danpriu

New Member
Hello good mate hope every one is all safe throughout the pandemic. But I need all the help I could get guys urgently !!! I am a proud owner of a 2005 land rover freelander 1.8 petrol version and the worst of the worse happened to me, whiles driving my engine started behaving poorly and then that was it, My baby broke down on me on my way to work. After having her towed home I took the day off from work to investigate the situation only to find out that my ecu was faulty after a long day of testing. I quickly hopped on eBay to see if I could have found an ecu kit that will get me up and running and to my surprise there wasn't any online. So am in need of your help guys !!! In finding where I could order an ecu kit for her, What am looking for is The key thobs, the central control unit that is behind the fuse box, The ecu (NNN100710) an and immobilizer (YWC500261) and also the transponder that goes with it similar to the pic below if i don't get the ccu that okay once I get the three main peaces which is the ecu, immobilizer and the transponder from the key guy that all i need, please !!! Help me out guys by provdinging me with links or options as in where I can get one or a way for me to get the white immobilizer to work on her since those are the only ones am I seeing available.

download (1).jpg
Land-Rover-Freelander-18i-ECU-kit-NNN100710-YWC500210.jpg
Land-Rover-Freelander-18i-petrol-2004-2006-ECU-kit.jpg
 
How have you determined that the ECU is at fault? The ECU is probably the most reliable component in the whole car, with few failures, unless caused by some other issue like shorted wiring.
 
Also, you just need an ECU. My pscan can programme any ECU/ immboliser together, so a complete ECU kit is unnecessary. And you won't fancy taking the dash apart to get to the immobiliser ECU...

As Nodge says - why are you suspicious of the ECU? What were the symptoms?
 
My pscan can programme any ECU/ immboliser together, so a complete ECU kit is unnecessary.

Useful info, will remember for 1.8Turbo mod !!!
Only helpful if you have a pscan though. OP may not have access.

I have removed an immob unit before, but the dash was out on the floor. Access through radio slot maybe possible.
We await the failure symptoms to help you further Danpriu.
 
Useful info, will remember for 1.8Turbo mod !!!
Only helpful if you have a pscan though. OP may not have access.

I have removed an immob unit before, but the dash was out on the floor. Access through radio slot maybe possible.
We await the failure symptoms to help you further Danpriu.
If I were to go down the 1.8T route, I would almost certainly be able to use a single, reprogrammed Rover ECU - but this will require a few favours being called in... Let me know if you need help for yours!
 
Hello guys Thanks so much for the replies, really sorry for the late response been at it all day again. The signs that I got that made me suspect the ecu is faulty or the immobilizer is those two source of information that am seeing after testing and been experiencing , my temperature gauge has been giving incorrect readings showing that the engine is hot when the engine was never in use , I know for sure it not the sensor cause I had it replaced and also tried it on my friends 2003 Freelander and it works well , I also tested the wiring to see if there was any brakes in the wire and hooked it up to a multimeter and tested the wiring from the sensor connector to the ecu and all was fine , I also went ahead and swap all sensors from my friend free lander on to mine and mine to his and I even went ahead and took out the whole air intake with injectors and all the sensors on it and the crank position sensor and placed it on his jeep and it start and runs fine . Secondly when I connected three scanners to the jeep all of them had a hard time connecting to the ecu and only one was able to connect to it and when I scanned it I did not have any fault codes , I also checked the status of all the sensors and they were giving good readings when I was cranking the jeep . Today I finally got her to start cranking again she would crank and start then die immediately after like the ecu killed the engine it like the ecu and immobilizer just won’t sync the doors lock fine and the alarms comes on and goes off when I use the fob or the key but whenever I crank the engine and the revs passes 1000 the car will just die like after 2 seconds after cranking and starting , and nothing seems to keep it running besides when I spray fuel to the throttle body , I realize when it cranks and the revs passes 1000 the ecu kills the engine , when that happens the injectors will just stop firing. but it will still spark and the pump will still run and the pressure is great but the injectors just won’t firer , sadly I was not able to test my immobilizer or ecu on my friend jeep since his ecu and immobilizer is the white one , but I went ahead and test all the wiring for the two and they all work and look fine but those are the two conclusions that made me think the ecu or immobilizer might be faulty , oh I also tried locking the jeep and unlocking it 5 or more times with the fob but that did not work .but if I don’t need the whole kit and I could just have it program how can I ?? what do I need to buy or who can I mail this too to get it done ?really desperate here guys
 
also guys which site would be the best site to order parts for her ? parts like the brake pads , and brake disk ? or cv axels ?? my country dosent sell those stuff for her so i have to order
 
I have been using lrdirect.com ordering parts for my Freelander in New Zealand.

Its almost always a lot cheaper than buying locally even after shipping costs and stuff gets here via DHL within a week (or it did before Covid).

I would suggest having a look around though as different companies and their couriers may charge different rates to countries. Rimmer Brothers is another company I know is used by a lot of customers to the UK.
 
That's a strange fault. However I believe that if the immobiliser isn't deactivating, then the engine won't crank over, which it does. So it is likely that the immobiliser is working fine, but somehow the engine run command isn't getting to the engine ECU, or the ECU isn't understanding it.

Have you checked all the wiring between the immobiliser module and engine ECU for continuity?

Also try not to refer to the vehicle as a Jeep, as it offends some forum members. ;)
 
Thanks for that detailed description - really helpful.

The question in my mind is whether the observed issue of the temperature gauge misreading even when the engine is cold is linked to the current engine starting issue. Occam's razor would suggest that if the two problems appeared together, then the simplest answer that explains both is the issue. In this case, it would be either an engine loom fault or an ECU fault (MEMS3).

MEMS3 is pretty reliable as Nodge has already said. They can fail, but this is super rare. Vulnerable wires can be more troublesome.

In this case, I wonder whether the sensor earth is a problem. The engine loom uses a shared earth for many sensors and also the injectors. The fact that the engine is not starting is going to boil down to the classic "is there a spark, is there fuel" question.

While you could go down the route of swapping out ECUs, this is expensive and time consuming. I'd check out the condition of the engine harness first - pay attention to cable condition, and the condition of the various loom earths.

Good luck! :)
 

Similar threads