Enthusiastman

Well-Known Member
Hi guys, I have looked behind my O/S/R inside top panel yesterday and my car has the " Blue dot " box in there which is supposed to be plagued by the dreaded flat battery syndrome i am told.
There is a P38 breaker online who i have bought some bits off and he says he has a Gen 3 Green dot box for me if i want it.

Has anyone actually changed their blue dot box for a green dot box and did it cure the issue or not???

Don't really want to spend out on it if it wont cure the issue which leads to having the BeCM module removed and tinkered with.
Would value any help or guidance on this issue please in advance. I have my C-Tek coneected 24/7 now to help keep the battery 100%. I have them on my other classics too so they are not a new thing to me.

Cheers
 
or the previous owner etc
I don't know how you can be sure what you really have, someone else may know
Cheers for your input buddy, apart from paying L/R about £300 i think for a new green dot unit i think i will stick with my C-Tek for now and carry my jump pack all the time incase i have to slave start her.
 
Cheers for your input buddy, apart from paying L/R about £300 i think for a new green dot unit i think i will stick with my C-Tek for now and carry my jump pack all the time incase i have to slave start her.
if you let your battery get that low, you'll kill it in no time. It wont do the alternator any favours either
 
There is a photo on here that shows the internals of the three different models of rf receivers not sure but it could have been @brianp38dse .I've tagged him if its not him he may remember who posted it. They are easy to open up.;) found it type rf recievers photo in the search box.
 
Here are the 3 types.
The RR RF receivers.JPG


The outer case is easy to pop-off to look inside.

Only the one on the right is the proper "fixed" RF unit.

Martyuk on here does a filter box for <£80 that fixes the problem on the older RF units.
 
Don’t bother. I run blue dot with the blue cable disconnected and everything taped up. Have to be close to the vehicle to use fob is all, used to go flat every 3 days, it picks up WiFi which wasn’t around when they invented it. It constantly wakes your Becm up which goes frantic checking noones stealing it.

MartyUK does filtered boxes but he is away at the mo.
There is also a flip flop method used by Brian where you have 2fobs.

All 3 of these methods work, however if you don’t drive it everyday you’ll still want the ctek as they are thirsty vehicles.
 
Don’t bother. I run blue dot with the blue cable disconnected and everything taped up. Have to be close to the vehicle to use fob is all, used to go flat every 3 days, it picks up WiFi which wasn’t around when they invented it. It constantly wakes your Becm up which goes frantic checking noones stealing it.

MartyUK does filtered boxes but he is away at the mo.
There is also a flip flop method used by Brian where you have 2fobs.

All 3 of these methods work, however if you don’t drive it everyday you’ll still want the ctek as they are thirsty vehicles.
Cheers guys for the valued info. I will be using the C-Tek on her all the time from now on as its a habit i am already in to on my others 2 classics so adding another one to the habit is easy for me for now. I always carry it in the car too along with my little genie booster jump starter which is brilliant. I dont go far as being retired and the only runs its gonna have really are down to Plymouth and up to Nottingham to see family. Other wise she will be pretty much sat still BUT i will use her locally too instead of the missus new car. My P38 is deffo not a daily driver. Just an occasional and now and then long run cruising car.
 
Hi guys, I have looked behind my O/S/R inside top panel yesterday and my car has the " Blue dot " box in there which is supposed to be plagued by the dreaded flat battery syndrome i am told.
There is a P38 breaker online who i have bought some bits off and he says he has a Gen 3 Green dot box for me if i want it.

Has anyone actually changed their blue dot box for a green dot box and did it cure the issue or not???

Don't really want to spend out on it if it wont cure the issue which leads to having the BeCM module removed and tinkered with.
Would value any help or guidance on this issue please in advance. I have my C-Tek coneected 24/7 now to help keep the battery 100%. I have them on my other classics too so they are not a new thing to me.

Cheers

Yes, solved all my issues. The price was taking the **** when I did it and they've doubled since. Martyuk has an inline filter that fixes it for £70 or Brian has a jog-switch fix for a fiver. Marty is working in NZ at the moment though.
 
Here are the 3 types.View attachment 222295

The outer case is easy to pop-off to look inside.

Only the one on the right is the proper "fixed" RF unit.

Martyuk on here does a filter box for <£80 that fixes the problem on the older RF units.

Marty seems to think the latest gen 3 have gone back to a single-board but I have not seen one or heard of any members getting one.
 
They didn’t really sort the problem until they were well into producing the L322. How they got away with it I dunno. I don’t trust any of the standard rf units
 

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