oversteer

New Member
Hello I am halfway through fitting the above into a 88" series 3. Anyone know which or any of the standard props will fit and if not which ones do i need?

The engine is from a Disco, the 'box from a Defender 200TDi



Thanks
 
If anyone is interested I have used cut and re-welded Range Rover wide-angle props on my conversion. The distance from the rear diff to the handbrake drum is 21.5" same as standard set-up, the distance from transfer box to front diff is 25.5".
 
Are you running your series axles with the defender transfer box? ie full time 4x4 with uj's in the swivels.
 
I will be running sereis axles for a short while with 3:5 diffs in, I am hoping to swop the Defender 90 transfer box for a Discovery one if I can get hold of one in time....
eventually I will probably put coiler axles on it for the disc brakes and CV's

cheers
 
depending on the condition of your ujs they may be ok for a while, but i'd swap to coil axles as soon as possible to be honest, one thing for better brakes as with extra power you will end up driving it quicker! Trust me been there!
 
I'd be interested to hear a bit more about this conversion and see photos if there are any. Did you just use a Defender seat box and transmission tunnel? Did the engine and box go in the same position relative to the bulkhead, as they do in a Defender? Did you fit a Defender radiator panel and bonnet? Would it be possible to get away with keeping the original series radiator panel and bonnet? What are the differences between an LT77 fitted to a Discovery and an LT77 fitted to a Defender?

If you fit free wheel hubs and keep the centre diff locked, for road use you could just dissengage drive to the front wheels using the freewheel hubs, which would eliminate the problems caused by lack of CVs in the front axle.
 
sorry to hi-jack, but i am currently doing a whole disco drive train into my series. there was a few links about how to do this conversion, i dont suppose any of you lot could point me towards them, as i have lost them somewhere
 
Hello all! it is with embarrassment that i reply as I gave duff information about prop lengths!!!:doh::doh: the front prop has been cut and re-welded so that it fits between the front diff and transfer box at 25 1/2" with about 3/4" - 1" of clearance in the slider to allow for suspension compression. The rear prop looks like it will be 23" going on the measurement taken from rear diff to handbrake drum, the reason i got this wrong was because of the angle of the rear prop adding to the length once i had the engine, transfer and gearbox in place to mark the engine mounts.
sorry !!!!!!!:doh:

I'll try to answer all the other questions....the Disco LT77 gearbox differs to the Defender unit (I think)by being a lot longer in the shifter housing. i say 'I think' as that is the difference looking at a Defender 90 and Discovery both fitted with R380 gearboxes.
It basically means that if you fit a Discovery 'box into a series or Defender the gearlever could end up being too far back and be close to the seat box.....which would mean the engine has to sit right at the front of the engine bay possibly leaving you with too short a front prop.
I can send pictures to e-mail addresses if anyone wants to PM me as it is probably beyond my computer skills to put them on here :D
I have kept the standard front end as the engine sits more or less where the series engine sits, about 4" from the bulkhead from memory. To be honest i felt it was a real pain to try to align everything up on my own even with an engine hoist so get someone to help with this!! as you have to keep in mind prop angles, the height that the engine and box sit, the distance between sump and front axle, where the gearlever will be....I have cut the original engine mounts from the chassis and fabricating my own from the remains / and one from the discovery.
The standard radiator panel will have to have the shrouding cut to suit the Discovery radiator and intercooler.
I have also used the standard seat box and will adapt it and the transmission covers to suit as I have mate who is a sheetmetal worker.....
I have also used the Defender hand brake as i was told that if you use the series handbrake and adapt it to fit the LT230 transfer box you cannot get a good handbrake without it rubbing as it will not set-up properly, something to do with lever rates being all wrong.

any questions let me know....:cool:
 
FYI to all- have changed my mind and moved the engine further back and lower in the chassis last weekend, so prop lengths that i qourted MAY have changed and I dare not say on here until i am positive what they turn out to be.....should be similar to what i said before though.
anyway the TDI now sits about 4 " from the bulkhead, the front pulley is well clear of the front diff by about 4-5" as I have also angled the engine back slightly on its mounts like on a Disco/ Defender. The turbo outlet has lots of clearance apart from the inner wing may have to be cut to suit slightly.
there looks to be about 7/8" of clearance from front pulley to where the original series 3 grill fits so by cutting the shroud from the inside of the front radiatore pannel and fitting a electric cooling fan say 2" or so thick i hope to be able to keep the original appearanace and not fit a stage 1/ Defender front end....
watch this space :)
 

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