Coffeelandy

Coffeelandy

Well-Known Member
Just done my 2 least favourite jobs. The ball joint on the steering drop arm, fecking seemingly small job, major arse ache getting that cap in then the fitting the sirclip then the pishing boot spring holder thingy.
I found this guide useful from another forum,
https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/14338-drop-arm-ball-joint-change-insitu/

Other job, fitting rear exhaust tail pipe. Remember to lift the body and not the axles. The rubber hangers were a total fecker so put them onto the exhaust first before fitting exhaust.
Anyway, quick service now, check all fluid levels including transfer and axles and gearbox etc. then waxoil and Brucey is good for another year.
Any noobs reading this please ask away if you're going to do it too.
 
Haven’t found the drop arm that bad tbh, have done 3 or so now and with the right tool it’s easy tbh
 
Hicap phill said:
I have a disco drop arm. 5 mins to change a track rod end. Blisssss
Click to expand...
How can you change a track rod end in 5 min!
Every time I have needed to do one, it is wedged in good and proper, and then has seized in the rod needing lots and lots of heat that melts the rubber boot and the grease giving lots of horrible fumes. Then finally once nearly glowing decides it will come out, by which time you have burnt yourself on it several times.
The the new one does not easily screw in regardless of how much copper grease you apply and because the one the other end has also seized you cannot get the thing tracked up at a garage because they cannot turn the whole bar!
 
@dag019
It's easy get a bigger hammer to release it.

IMG_6426.JPG

As for the rest does not need tracking up as you knock it out it only moves the steering wheel.

Rear/drag link ones take a bit longer. ;)

Plus this motor has had little modifications to help speed crap jobs up.
 
dag019 said:
How can you change a track rod end in 5 min!
Every time I have needed to do one, it is wedged in good and proper, and then has seized in the rod needing lots and lots of heat that melts the rubber boot and the grease giving lots of horrible fumes. Then finally once nearly glowing decides it will come out, by which time you have burnt yourself on it several times.
The the new one does not easily screw in regardless of how much copper grease you apply and because the one the other end has also seized you cannot get the thing tracked up at a garage because they cannot turn the whole bar!
Click to expand...


The secret with heating seized componets up is DONT unscrew them when they are red hot as you will wreck the threads, instead heat them up then walk away for half and hour then try and undo it.
I have not used heat on a steering ball joint for as long as I can remember and I must do at least one a week if not more.
Hammers are the secret to all steering ball joints and is all I use on the trucks at work.

As an example scania last night into workshop, up on the hoist undo both track rod nuts, hammer steering arms, whole track rod off, set up new track rod assy to the same length, fit new rod assy and drive out 29 minutes start to finish and thats pretty much the same time for a track rod end on a truck normally less as its less weildy.
 
flat said:
Haven’t found the drop arm that bad tbh, have done 3 or so now and with the right tool it’s easy tbh
Click to expand...
+! I've got the tool to do it and it makes it an easy job. This has reminded me to fit a grease nipple in the bottom. It's low down on the to do list though :rolleyes:
 
Coffeelandy said:
Just done my 2 least favourite jobs. The ball joint on the steering drop arm, fecking seemingly small job, major arse ache getting that cap in then the fitting the sirclip then the pishing boot spring holder thingy.
I found this guide useful from another forum,
Click to expand...
Al2O3 said:
+! I've got the tool to do it and it makes it an easy job. This has reminded me to fit a grease nipple in the bottom. It's low down on the to do list though :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Yep the correct tool does make it easy..LOL. Just like this.

On the bay, may not be cheap, but does save a lot of cursing. So in my book it is worth it.
292599151183

Cheers
 
Al2O3 said:
+! I've got the tool to do it and it makes it an easy job. This has reminded me to fit a grease nipple in the bottom. It's low down on the to do list though :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

I did that with mine and grease it when I do my propshafts :)
 
lynall said:
The secret with heating seized componets up is DONT unscrew them when they are red hot as you will wreck the threads, instead heat them up then walk away for half and hour then try and undo it.
I have not used heat on a steering ball joint for as long as I can remember and I must do at least one a week if not more.
Hammers are the secret to all steering ball joints and is all I use on the trucks at work.

As an example scania last night into workshop, up on the hoist undo both track rod nuts, hammer steering arms, whole track rod off, set up new track rod assy to the same length, fit new rod assy and drive out 29 minutes start to finish and thats pretty much the same time for a track rod end on a truck normally less as its less weildy.
Click to expand...

hi

may i ask plse , have u ever used one of those induction coil heaters , heard some good things about them, but are bloody expensive
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
Now WTF have I done
Replies
4
Views
858
Alex1000
A
xDParis64
Freelander 1 Converting from wasted spark to distributor (or Visa Versa)
Replies
0
Views
394
xDParis64
xDParis64
J
Freelander 2 front left suspension arm replacement
Replies
13
Views
6K
bfgquinn
bfgquinn
seanlandy
6 bolt steering box drop arm query?
Replies
13
Views
1K
seanlandy
seanlandy
Flossie
Drop arm ballpoint removal/refit kit
Replies
4
Views
697
brianp38dse
brianp38dse