C

Cramy

New Member
Setting up a Defender 110 HT for the big trip.
Any comments or experience on the Stability when running this suspension/tyre setup: 2" lift with 285/75 tyres with the following equipment up top.
Roof rack with roof tent and sides, Awning, Spare wheel/tyre, High lift jack, Shovel.

Fuel, Water storage is mounted under side trying to keep extra weight down low. Along with the usual in cab storage drawers, fridge, tool box/ tools, spares, camping equipment etc.

Cheers
 
No experience with all that equipment , but i have got a 2 inch lift and 285/75 16.
If you run that tyre you may need to run spacers or get a wheel with less offset.
When I changed my wheels and tyres the car was just under 4 inches wider , which means stability shouldn't be effected
 
Could you lower the CoG by putting the spare wheel on the rear door/bonnet and maybe move the hi-lift lower down also.

The max weight on a roof is something like 75kg including the rack, you could be getting close to that with those bits up there.

I fitted a 2inch lift and 285s with no negative effects on CoG... I don't have a roof though :rolleyes:
 
Boris113 said:
Could you lower the CoG by putting the spare wheel on the rear door/bonnet and maybe move the hi-lift lower down also.

The max weight on a roof is something like 75kg including the rack, you could be getting close to that with those bits up there.

I fitted a 2inch lift and 285s with no negative effects on CoG... I don't have a roof though :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input Boris113,
I already have a spare on the rear door (2x spares) and not overly keen on this size spare mounted on the bonnet due to losing a lot of vision especially on steep descents.
I would like to mount the high lift with the spare on the rear door but it fouls on the roof tent annexe when the rear door is open, Looks like it'll be going on the front bar.

I am just over the 75kg limit with all that kit up top. After seeing a lot of expedition vehicles setup with a lot more kit up top than I'm running ie 2 x rooftop tents with jerrys in between, spots, awnings, highlifts etc and some of these being set up by Land rover themselves. I asked Land Rover au and their response was for expedition use (including some road usage) it was safe to load up to 100kg on the roof and just adjust driving style to suit.
I have also read that Land Rover sa recommend that up to 150kg is safe and again to adjust driving style to suit. Not that I would feel comfortable loading the old girl with that much up top but its still interesting to hear the difference from Land Rover themselves.
 
I have a 90 roof rack, jerry cans, hi-lift, spots on he too of my 110dcpu with a 2" lift, cranked arms and trailing arms with 33x12.5 on 15x10 modulars and it feels perfect. Think it feels even more stable than a Defender on standard wheels and suspension in fact. The 15x10 modulars have a -30 offset or something though as the track is a good 4 or 5 inches wider than standard
 
I have a similar set up on my 110,I have a Gwyn lewis 2" lift with Old Man Emu +5" shocks.I have a Brownchurch full length roof rack,Maggiolina roof tent and tool box mounted up top,about 150kg in total.
It was a bit walowy when I built it,so I changed all the bushes for Pollybush reds.Made a massive diference.
Spare is on the back door and Hi lift is inside the back.
 

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Yep, I have yellow poly bushes and it definitely made things abit stiffer.

I'm thinking about getting HD springs soon and stronger longer travel shocks soon too however as the standard Britpart ones are alittle soft I think but still drives fine either way.
 
I don't at the moment, however I may be changing the tyres so will wait until I have made my mind up about that before drilling the newly painted bodywork. They do throw quite a lot of muck up the sides which is annoying.

Any chance of a couple of pics of the fedimas? -they are one of the options I'm considering :)
 
On my 90 I have lots of weight up top, roof tent, awning, high lift, 2 jerry cans and a storage box.. I fitted HD springs which makes it better and 30mm spacers which also more stable off road but really what you need is a anti roll bar, x-eng do one that dislocates electronically with a switch or buy a cheaper one with a pin you can pull out to dislocate.. I would just go for 1 on the back makes a massive difference.
 
You say the big one, where are you going and for how long? I would question the need for 2 spares. I also wouldn't put it on the roof. 285s are overkill for an overland trip go with something more sensible.
 
Forgot to add, take a plug kit for punctures. If your running good tires the chance of a sidewall split are slim therefore not needing the 2nd spare
 
Boris113 said:
I don't at the moment, however I may be changing the tyres so will wait until I have made my mind up about that before drilling the newly painted bodywork. They do throw quite a lot of muck up the sides which is annoying.

Any chance of a couple of pics of the fedimas? -they are one of the options I'm considering :)
Click to expand...

I have -32 15x10s with 33x12.5s so slightly wider than yours but have the extended arches with the 2" lift

To be honest, the arches do very little to stop the muck getting thrown all up the sides. There's just too much of a gap between the arch and tyre as it gets thrown up where the arches finish at the sills. I'm going fitting wider mudflaps that britpart do which will hopefully help a little bit but there's still a couple of inches of a gap between the bottom of the arches and the mudflap so I think the main thing to do to keep it clean is drop to standard height if it really bothered me enough.


Main reason for the extended arches is for it to be made mot legal really
 
DaveM-sport said:
I have -32 15x10s with 33x12.5s so slightly wider than yours but have the extended arches with the 2" lift

To be honest, the arches do very little to stop the muck getting thrown all up the sides. There's just too much of a gap between the arch and tyre as it gets thrown up where the arches finish at the sills. I'm going fitting wider mudflaps that britpart do which will hopefully help a little bit but there's still a couple of inches of a gap between the bottom of the arches and the mudflap so I think the main thing to do to keep it clean is drop to standard height if it really bothered me enough.


Main reason for the extended arches is for it to be made mot legal really
Click to expand...

Totally agree, it got even worse when I had to trim the wheel arches, making a larger space around the front of the rock slider/rear of wheel arch.

Gwyn lewis make a spacer-type kit with a widened mudflap which fills that gap, maybe worth looking at.

Back to topic though, Griff's right, if you are going well off the beaten track then stick with a standard size tyre - replacements will be much easier to find if needed.
 
Griffdowg said:
Forgot to add, take a plug kit for punctures. If your running good tires the chance of a sidewall split are slim therefore not needing the 2nd spare
Click to expand...

Sods law though in it ! First time we went to Morocco with one spare a rock went straight through the tread pattern (one inch split) second time took two spares and we did'nt get a single puncture !
 
If you had been there longer though you could probably have got it repaired with a patch (which comes in the plug kits) by a local tyre guy.

26000 miles across 25 countries and we only got 2 in Siberia. Both nails and both fixed in 10 minutes with a plug. We wont be taking a 2nd spare next time.

G
 
Griffdowg said:
If you had been there longer though you could probably have got it repaired with a patch (which comes in the plug kits) by a local tyre guy.

26000 miles across 25 countries and we only got 2 in Siberia. Both nails and both fixed in 10 minutes with a plug. We wont be taking a 2nd spare next time.

G
Click to expand...

I did have plug kit but no patch in it, puncture happened 20k into the track with over 200 left to do, 50°c 3 kids in the back !! bottled out and turned back, did get it fixed localy!!

PS: Loving your travels matey, enjoy :)
 
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