'98 GMC Jimmy,4WD,4.6L. Inside wear on the front tires, irractic steering,
and advice from a tech on an attempt to align the front end, seems I need
the ball joints replaced.(approx. 130K on vehicle) Now, on researching the
parts on-line, I find info on upper and lowers. Due to the estimate on
repair, looks like a job I might have to do myself. 4 yrs auto mechanics a
thousand years ago in high school, and a HVAC tech forever, not too bad
with a wrench, and the fact that I'll probably own used vehicles for the
duration. YES guys, I'm......."thrifty". If anyone can square me away on a
few points on the repairs, what to expect, what parts, etc...I already have
plenty of headache powders, and band-aids, I would be in your
dept......THANX

I find a 10 lb sledge, better known as a BFH to come in real handy on
ball joint jobs....

I also recommend two or three times daily for a few days before the job
to soak everything in a good penetrating oil. That should make the job
a bunch easier.

At 130K I also think while you have things open, you might want to
closely inspect all the tie rod ends as well and address the wheel
bearings or hubs if they are re-packable. (most are sealed units these
days)

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/index.html?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Stryder wrote:
>
> '98 GMC Jimmy,4WD,4.6L. Inside wear on the front tires, irractic steering,
> and advice from a tech on an attempt to align the front end, seems I need
> the ball joints replaced.(approx. 130K on vehicle) Now, on researching the
> parts on-line, I find info on upper and lowers. Due to the estimate on
> repair, looks like a job I might have to do myself. 4 yrs auto mechanics a
> thousand years ago in high school, and a HVAC tech forever, not too bad
> with a wrench, and the fact that I'll probably own used vehicles for the
> duration. YES guys, I'm......."thrifty". If anyone can square me away on a
> few points on the repairs, what to expect, what parts, etc...I already have
> plenty of headache powders, and band-aids, I would be in your
> dept......THANX

As Mike says, one BFH - I find 4 pounds is usually adequate, myself
<g>.

Tools: buy or borrow a pickle fork for unseating the ball joints.
They also make a smaller size for tie rod ends. These are cheap but
many parts stores have a loaner tool program for such things. You may
also need spring compressor for the coil springs - seems to me I
needed that on a GM car but it's been a while so I may be remembering
wrong - and the taller the jacks stands the better as that gives you a
better swing with the hammer.

I would also second the suggestion to check the tie rod ends and all
the other moving parts before you start. With the price of a decent
alignment anymore, you might as well replace whatever is questionable
and just have the alignment done once.

On Sat, 24 Dec 2005 15:13:00 UTC "Stryder" <stryder_36@yahoo.com>
wrote:

> '98 GMC Jimmy,4WD,4.6L. Inside wear on the front tires, irractic steering,
> and advice from a tech on an attempt to align the front end, seems I need
> the ball joints replaced.(approx. 130K on vehicle) Now, on researching the
> parts on-line, I find info on upper and lowers. Due to the estimate on
> repair, looks like a job I might have to do myself. 4 yrs auto mechanics a
> thousand years ago in high school, and a HVAC tech forever, not too bad
> with a wrench, and the fact that I'll probably own used vehicles for the
> duration. YES guys, I'm......."thrifty". If anyone can square me away on a
> few points on the repairs, what to expect, what parts, etc...I already have
> plenty of headache powders, and band-aids, I would be in your
> dept......THANX
>


--
Will Honea

This isn't too bad of a job if you have the right tools:

1. If the Ball Joints are original, you will need to grind off the
rivets. The new Ball Joints will have bolts. I would throw them out and
replace them with Grade 5 bolts that won't strip.

2. You will need a Pickle Fork (two sizes are generally best) and a BFH
as said above. Also a cold wedge and punch helps when trying to remove
the ball joints themselves from the A-arm.

3. You won't have to worry about coil springs thankfully,
Jimmys/Blazers use Torsion bars.

4. If you have bearing noise, this would be the time to replace the
Hubs. They are a sealed unit with an ABS unit attached. They are also
rather pricey (Even on eBay) so I wouldn't touch them if they aren't
making noise.

Hope this helps.

-John