Axle back on! Awaiting new bolts before I torque everything up and bleed brakes. Everything looking a lot less crusty!
9EC1D350-2664-40CF-A4D8-7F19C2E3074B.jpeg
 
Ah good thinking. Was looking for better things than tie wraps- can you get better clips?
 
Ah good thinking. Was looking for better things than tie wraps- can you get better clips?
There are tie wraps with the clip already moulded into it(like genuine)
Off to have a look ;)

also is that flexi pipe long enough if that axle drops lower?
 
Arse! Brakes bled, bolts torqued up and took it for a spin- not idling properly!

Runs and starts ok but when you rev it the engine slows right down and nearly stops, sometimes picks up but sometimes stalls!

Makes no sense- haven’t touched anything on the engine at all! Unless I disturbed something around fuel tank- breather hose maybe? It still does it with the fuel cap off though?! Any ideas??
 
Arse! Brakes bled, bolts torqued up and took it for a spin- not idling properly!

Runs and starts ok but when you rev it the engine slows right down and nearly stops, sometimes picks up but sometimes stalls!

Makes no sense- haven’t touched anything on the engine at all! Unless I disturbed something around fuel tank- breather hose maybe? It still does it with the fuel cap off though?! Any ideas??
If you Rev it up & it dies it’s fuel related.
Either sucking in air or lift pump failing.
 
Yeah reckon it’s entering system somewhere- think I might have knocked the sedimenter when doing rear axle. That’s where I plan to start!
 
Sedimenters are pretty notorious for being a PITA as they age .... cheap enough new though... failing that, then as post #127 - LP has failed coincidentally :rolleyes:

I'd see how full your fuel filter is - half full means the LP is kaput.....

Nice to see you are dealing with the rust :)
 
Pretty sure it’s related to pipes round rear end rather than lift pump. Ran like a dream before I started messing about with back end. Going to check it out in week. Cheers!
 
Check the top of the sender unit, very weak point when rusted, I would take the sedimenter apart and give it a good clean, replace both O rings while you are there,
 
I recently did some of these jobs.
I used NRC9246 for the brake pipes, they are the ones used for the axle breather pipe and are sligtly loose on 3/16 brake pipe but not too bad with a little squeeze.
The wires you found are for pad wear sensors
 
Pad wear sensors makes sense, although the wires only went to one side! Plus I don’t think I’ve got a pad warning light..?
Anyway got underneath and had a prod- found this eventually!
B669ADDF-C4F1-4AF1-8A2D-998D99B215B4.jpeg

So that’d be the pipe I caught when undoing the upper link nuts...
Surprisingly enough it wasn’t leaking diesel though. Rest of the sedimenter is seized and rusted up so going to tackle that another day. Meanwhile the fuel pipe snapped when undoing the union, so I’m going to replace the end section and put a new union on, that should sort it.
The union looked like this when I got it off...
F493A61D-D528-428C-A15D-98BA7C98FD8A.jpeg

Nice! I would replace the entire back-to-front pipe but can’t find one. Rest of pipe is fine so just doing last metal section should be OK I reckon.
 
Bypass the sedimentor, best to run new pipe front to rear.

PS it is just nylon air brake pipe available from commercial motor factors or ebay etc.
 
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Right, now I’m confused. Been to 2 local motor factors (including truck place) and neither have the pipe nor the unions! What have people done to connect the actual pipe to the end of the sedimenter? How would a nylon pipe go into the threaded hole?!
 
The feed from the tank to the sedimenter is NTC 7335 and from the Sedimenter to fuel pump
Is ESR163 then pump to filter is ESR 267
 
Sorted it! Part ESR163 is obsolete (despite being listed as available to order on some websites...) so went a hydraulic hose place and got one made up. Somewhat over engineered but it runs great now. Back end feels much tighter too.

Just the front end to do now...
 

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