K2tnt
Well-Known Member
Today’s job was to do the heater motor. It had never worked since I had the car and I finally got round to starting it today.
True to form it was a bugger of a job, whole dash had to come out.
Lots of fun!
I’d bought an entire replacement dash including heater box, which was handy as replacement motors are very hard to get hold of by the looks of things.
The new heater box is in now, but needs reconnecting to everything- was too dark for pictures by the time I’d finished.
Have asked on another thread but does anyone know where the pipe from the valve thing is supposed to go? Wasn’t connected to anything when I dismantled it all.
Should be a nicer place to be in winter now! Plan to make sure all the lights in the switches work when it all goes back together, and also install the remote central locking plipper kit I have lying around.
True to form it was a bugger of a job, whole dash had to come out.
Lots of fun!
I’d bought an entire replacement dash including heater box, which was handy as replacement motors are very hard to get hold of by the looks of things.
The new heater box is in now, but needs reconnecting to everything- was too dark for pictures by the time I’d finished.
Have asked on another thread but does anyone know where the pipe from the valve thing is supposed to go? Wasn’t connected to anything when I dismantled it all.
Should be a nicer place to be in winter now! Plan to make sure all the lights in the switches work when it all goes back together, and also install the remote central locking plipper kit I have lying around.
Attachments
Zed.
Well-Known Member
been there with my MUT
fun job but not as bad as people say
also, what heater-fan/motor are you fitting? the one we had was supposedly the right type but had it's resistor mounted on the motor (new one) and the origonal motor was slightly larger diameter with a seperate resistor mounted on the steel 'end-plate' that the recirculation solenoid & actuator are mounted on....
caused some swearing......
Rich.
K2tnt
Well-Known Member
I bought an entire heater box from EBay along with some dash spares. I dismantled the heater box with a view to moving motor over to mine, only to find it’s been hacked about- don’t think it’s the right motor fitted but it seems to work.
No idea what motor it is but it’s certainly not the same as the broken one- does seem to fit somehow though! The resistor has been removed, so when I connected it up in only runs at full speed.
I do intend to at least try and reconnect the resistor before I put it all back together. Having a blower that only runs on full is better than none at all!
No idea what motor it is but it’s certainly not the same as the broken one- does seem to fit somehow though! The resistor has been removed, so when I connected it up in only runs at full speed.
I do intend to at least try and reconnect the resistor before I put it all back together. Having a blower that only runs on full is better than none at all!
The vacuum pipe goes through the bulkhead to the servo line "T" piece, the electric solenoid valve provides vacuum when needed.
Been there a few times, not a fun job, pain in the hole TBH and needless to say, I've got to go in there again soon enough.
The only spare motors on the market a few years back, and most likely still the same today, is the BritPart RRC replacement ones and that needs the resistor pack drilled off the motor body and shimming to fit as it is a couple of mm on the shy side for the friction fit of the Disco heater box, not such a problem on the RRC as they are screwed in place.
Mine looked like this.
Fitted a salvage box with good motor and never got round to doing the mod I intended which was to fit roller bearings in there to replace the oilite bushings, an awful lot of thinking about it and I am still undecided about whether or not to go with bearings or fit bushings again? But one thing I do know is that they need some sort of lubrication whilst in service, I was thinking about using a felt pad and a thin plastic pipe, knocking up a tin plate to hold the pad against the bushing and to affix the pipe so that I could use a small syringe once a month or so and squirt some machine oil into the bushings so that they don't ever run dry, would also work for the bearings as well I suppose.
Been there a few times, not a fun job, pain in the hole TBH and needless to say, I've got to go in there again soon enough.
The only spare motors on the market a few years back, and most likely still the same today, is the BritPart RRC replacement ones and that needs the resistor pack drilled off the motor body and shimming to fit as it is a couple of mm on the shy side for the friction fit of the Disco heater box, not such a problem on the RRC as they are screwed in place.
Mine looked like this.
Fitted a salvage box with good motor and never got round to doing the mod I intended which was to fit roller bearings in there to replace the oilite bushings, an awful lot of thinking about it and I am still undecided about whether or not to go with bearings or fit bushings again? But one thing I do know is that they need some sort of lubrication whilst in service, I was thinking about using a felt pad and a thin plastic pipe, knocking up a tin plate to hold the pad against the bushing and to affix the pipe so that I could use a small syringe once a month or so and squirt some machine oil into the bushings so that they don't ever run dry, would also work for the bearings as well I suppose.
K2tnt
Well-Known Member
That’s a good engineered solution! Like I say I’m pretty sure the motor in mine isn’t even from a Land Rover, but it fits fine and does the job.
The motor I removed looked a bit like that- was completely seized solid.
It’s all back together now, and I’ve wired the resistor in so it works at different speeds too which is nice. Only problem is I need to find somewhere where to put resistor as I didn’t realise it gets hot in use! Should go inside the heater box, but I’ve put the dash back in now...
The motor I removed looked a bit like that- was completely seized solid.
It’s all back together now, and I’ve wired the resistor in so it works at different speeds too which is nice. Only problem is I need to find somewhere where to put resistor as I didn’t realise it gets hot in use! Should go inside the heater box, but I’ve put the dash back in now...
Put it in an old baccy tin screwed to the bulkhead ...
K2tnt
Well-Known Member
Not much to say recently- had been happily bimbling around with nothing to report until...
Was planning on driving to the Lake District 2 weeks ago, when lost all drive coming out of Tesco car park! Managed to get home with difflock on (only 1/4 mile so no major issues!)
Used a different car to get to Lake District, came back and diagnosed CV joint rather than half shaft.
Ordered new kit, fitted today.
Hub and stub axle came off pretty easily to reveal...
A thoroughly shagged CV joint! Had literally shattered itself to pieces!
Cleared out all the remains of the old one, fitted new one, packed with grease, reassembled and topped up the swivel housing and all good to go!
Was planning on driving to the Lake District 2 weeks ago, when lost all drive coming out of Tesco car park! Managed to get home with difflock on (only 1/4 mile so no major issues!)
Used a different car to get to Lake District, came back and diagnosed CV joint rather than half shaft.
Ordered new kit, fitted today.
Hub and stub axle came off pretty easily to reveal...
A thoroughly shagged CV joint! Had literally shattered itself to pieces!
Cleared out all the remains of the old one, fitted new one, packed with grease, reassembled and topped up the swivel housing and all good to go!
DiscoLyle
Member
K2tnt
Well-Known Member
New track rod fitted, new ball joints on drop link done too. The torque setting didn’t seem very high (40nm), but that’s what Haynes said.
Only problem was the nuts holding the steering damper to the track rod were seized solid (think someone had put threadlock on them too), and the flats rounded off when trying to remove. New steering damper ordered, exhaust to do tomorrow when it arrives.
Only problem was the nuts holding the steering damper to the track rod were seized solid (think someone had put threadlock on them too), and the flats rounded off when trying to remove. New steering damper ordered, exhaust to do tomorrow when it arrives.
