hef19898

Well-Known Member
As s luck might have it, I shot my rear diff over the weekend. Like really shot it to tiny, tiny pieces. And the stub axles took a hit as well, both of them.
Now, what are the options? Sticking with an open diff and 10 spline axles? Keeping the 10 splines and adding a diff locker? And if so, which one? Or is possible, and worthwhile, to retrofit a 24 spline axle?

Any thoughts from you, fellow landy zoners?
 
So, the diff question was answered by Paddocks 5 minutes ago by offering a second hand diff for 100 bucks. Guess I just got lucky, kind of!

A few years ago I bought a fully recon. 10 spline diff for my RRC, £160 with warranty. Guess prices have escalated :rolleyes:
 
First the cars, then the parts. Price escalation seems to be the norm nowadays...

Fun fact, the guy at the off road park I broke the diff at wanted to buy it. 30k Euro minimum. People got crazy, if you ask me.

Imho, old Jeep Chirokees will be next. People are buying them as off road toys because they are cheap. As were Disco 1s and RRCs.
 
Just had a very pleasant surprise in the mail today. Well, if you can call a 30+ kg lump of steel mail anyway. The new diff arrived. Complete with pinion, housing amd everything else. Which should make fitting all the much easier. And now to my beginner diff mounting questions:

1: The diff isn't rusty, the reason being a thin film of grease / oil on the gears. That attracted all kinds of nasty workshop dust and grit. I wiped some of it of to check in which condition the gears are. gears came out all nice and shiney! Now, do I clean all that grit of before I mount the diff? And if so, what do I use, my first instinct would be brake cleaner.

2: I haven't measured it yet, but the play of the diff feels like the old one. Contact faces between pinion and the big gear ( no idea how it is called and I don't have my literature at hand right now) seems to be where it is supposed to be. How much tolerance is there in fitting it, anything I have to pay attention to or is it plug-and-play?

3: The pinion bearing looks also nice and shiney. Do I have to grease it before fitting or is it lubricated by the axle oil?

And finally, anything else I should pay attention to? Especially stuff that's not covered in the workshop manuals or Haye's?
 

Similar threads