T

Tonydatiger123

New Member
Hiya, I'm looking at buying a 110 but the seller says it only drives with the diff lock on! I'm assuming that it shouldn't be driven on the road?!
 
No it's possibly ok to drive just means that something is broken/been removed in the drive train eg prop, diff,cv ,drive member etc.
But if it's something like the diff or cv has eaten itself then you need to be careful it doesn't seize or jam whilst driving, whereas a broken prop that's been removed should be ok.
 
The guy has been driving it like that on the road for a while, he assumed that the 4wd wasn't working and what he thought was the "2wd" lever was actually the diff lock. He says the rear wheels spin so prob an issue with the front axle? Won't it break the rear diff or shaft if I drive it on the road? It's approx a 300 mile drive I have to do to get it home!
 
if you take it out of difflock and whip the little rubber covers off the end of the axles (unless its got alloys on) then you will be able to see if one of the drive members has failed as it will be spinning away merrily on that worn member. Simple job to fix. Only a few quid :)
 
Tonydatiger123 said:
The guy has been driving it like that on the road for a while, he assumed that the 4wd wasn't working and what he thought was the "2wd" lever was actually the diff lock. He says the rear wheels spin so prob an issue with the front axle? Won't it break the rear diff or shaft if I drive it on the road? It's approx a 300 mile drive I have to do to get it home!
Click to expand...

itll be alright if its just a drive member. Though better to whip the driveshaft out and replace the rubber cap (otherwise itll **** oil everywhere.... if theres any oil in it!)
 
Thanks for that mate, so it should be ok to drive on the road?! Will the rear end tend to "skip" around corners? Just don't want to break anything in the drivetrain on the way home! Most of what I have read says that to drive on the road with diff lock on is a big no no! Just wanted some other opinions!
 
Why start a new thread?

Were the answers given on the first thread you started not good enough?

I know you've worded it differently but the answers were there ....
 
Might be worth taking gearbox tunnel off and drivers floor (only 5 minute job) and see if anything has broken between the lever and the transfer box. As for driving it on the road I cant offer any other suggestions than you've already had.

Good luck with the journey
 
Paul D said:
Why start a new thread?

Were the answers given on the first thread you started not good enough?

I know you've worded it differently but the answers were there ....
Click to expand...

I do apologize....I have had further information so just thought I would ask as I'm supposed to be picking it up tomorrow and need some quick advice, I thought that was the point of a discussion forum!? Thanks for the warm welcome.
 
The "don't drive on the road in diff lock" is when both axles are driven they turn at different speeds when cornering, resulting in transmission wind-up, tire skipping and damage if the centre diff is locked. If you whip the drive shafts out as above your only driving the rear axle so no problem as a short term fix.
 
Huddy84 said:
The "don't drive on the road in diff lock" is when both axles are driven they turn at different speeds when cornering, resulting in transmission wind-up, tire skipping and damage if the centre diff is locked. If you whip the drive shafts out as above your only driving the rear axle so no problem as a short term fix.
Click to expand...

Thanks mate! The guy says that when wheelspin occurs it's only the rear that spins so I'm assuming that the front axle is not being driven so its the same scenario as removing the front prop/drive shafts?
 
Tonydatiger123 said:
I do apologize....I have had further information so just thought I would ask as I'm supposed to be picking it up tomorrow and need some quick advice, I thought that was the point of a discussion forum!? Thanks for the warm welcome.
Click to expand...

still best of sticking to one thread, that way people aren't repeating themselves and have a fuller history of what has been discussed so far. and welcome :D

what type of 110 is it? year, engine?

even if it is knackered, you are still only talking a few hundred max for second hand parts to fix it; and as low as a tenner. just factor that in when negotiating.
 
Last edited:
To be totally safe take off front prop and both half shafts, then the diff and rear drive are completely isolated from the problem. (Unless someone knows of any problems doing that) depends what's broken but you don't want to risk it jamming and throwing itself off the road if say the front diff locks up suddenly.
 
Huddy84 said:
To be totally safe take off front prop and both half shafts, then the diff and rear drive are completely isolated from the problem. (Unless someone knows of any problems doing that) depends what's broken but you don't want to risk it jamming and throwing itself off the road if say the front diff locks up suddenly.
Click to expand...

It's not really a quick job like the rear though as the fronts don't just pull out due to the CV joints swivels etc it's wheels off swivels off track rods etc etc
 
like his previous thread, he won't know until he gets there. it might not even have a front prop on
 
Well it made it home! 333 mlies @50mph! Left at 11 this morning and just got home, few stops for fuel etc but apart from that all is good!:)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Duncydoo
Help lost drive on way to carfest…
Replies
4
Views
447
miktdish
miktdish
C
Defender TDCi Puma 90 - Diff Lock Light
Replies
12
Views
540
crashmat
C
C
repairing bulkhead in situ
Replies
2
Views
240
ER1C
ER1C
J
TD5 defender Vibration
Replies
3
Views
449
chrisstdt
chrisstdt
P
What's this noise?
Replies
2
Views
390
Jim6503
J