vhexs · Nov 30, 2016

Hi,

We recently bought a 1999 Freelander 2nd hand from a couple down the road. After the freezing cold night on Sunday, we went to drive to the shops and found that the car wouldn't start. The engine cranked slowly and the injector clicked. Suspecting it was a low battery, we attempted to bump-start the car to no avail (though we probably didn't do it right anyway). Yesterday we called out breakdown and the lad attempted to jump-start the car, which also failed. He suspected a dodgy fuel pump, and (with the jump-starter still connected) after kicking the fuel tank the car started once but failed on subsequent attempts. We added 10L of fuel last night, just in case, but this afternoon the car failed to start again, and the battery seems to be almost out too as lights pulse when the engine cranks over.
After doing some searching on the internet I found a YouTube video detailing how to replace the fuel pump & sender unit. Now here's the fun part... Under the under-seat mats in the rear of the car, we discovered dodgy wiring and a VERY rusty pump cover.
I've put together a huge collection of images here. Would any of you kind souls be willing to take up the mats in your Freelander and show us what it's supposed to look like under there? Also, do you have any ideas about what could be causing the issue (and how to rectify it)?

Thanks!
Sam

Nodge68 · Nov 30, 2016

The cranking issue is likely to be the battery. How old is it? Are there any manufacturers dates on it to help give a clue as to its age?
Having an 05 TD4, my tank connections are completely different to yours, so a picture of mine won't help.

The large wire will be the pump 12 volt feed. One of the blacks will be ground. The other 2 wires are for the sender.
You need to make sure that the 12V and pump ground are sound.
You need to check that your boot seal isn't leading. That's likely to be the cause for the rusty pump cover.

vhexs · Nov 30, 2016

I'm not sure how old it is, but it must be at least a few years old by now. Do you think the cold weather the other night may have caused it to give out?
When attempting to start the car earlier the courtesy lights almost turned right off as the engine was cranking, and I don't think that usually happens. I forgot to mention, now it seems the battery is completely flat as it wouldn't lock with the handset and the central locking also failed.

Nodge68 · Nov 30, 2016

Batteries show there weaknesses when cold. The battery works on an electrochemical reaction. Cold slows down the reaction, so capacity drops. So the battery is the first thing to replace.

vhexs · Nov 30, 2016

Ah. Thanks for the info. I'll look into other batteries.
We managed to find another post about a failed relay for the fuel pump - going to see if there's a way we can test ours.

Nodge68 · Nov 30, 2016

The relay can fail too. However the pump can be heard running for a few seconds after turning the ignition on. So stick your ear near the pump cover and get someone else to turn the key to the ignition position. If you hear the pump run for a few seconds, the pump is ok. If it's silent, then I'd investigate those wiring bodges first.

vhexs · Nov 30, 2016

The recovery guy got right under and listened for it, said he couldn't hear anything. Once we've got more insulating tape we'll have a look at the wires.

Nodge68 · Nov 30, 2016

vhexs said:
The recovery guy got right under and listened for it, said he couldn't hear anything. Once we've got more insulating tape we'll have a look at the wires.

I'd check there before suspecting the relay. The battery sounds like a duffer though

vhexs · Nov 30, 2016

Alright, thank you

Do you know if the wires back there would be live without the ignition on?

Nodge68 · Nov 30, 2016

vhexs said:
Alright, thank you
Do you know if the wires back there would be live without the ignition on?

With the ignition off. The power will also be off.
Only the thick one is live in the true sense of the word anyway. That is the 12 Volt feed to the pump.
The other thin coloured wire is for the fuel gauge. If you ground that, the gauge will display a full tank. The black wires should go back to the body anyway. Being grounded on a post nearby somewhere.

vhexs · Nov 30, 2016

Awesome, thanks! We'll have a look whenever we can then.

deangermouse · Nov 30, 2016

Hi, i am about to break a 2000 1.8 freelander if you need anything,

vhexs · Nov 30, 2016

Ah that's awesome! I don't suppose I could ask you to take a couple of pictures underneath the mats under the rear seats, please, so I can see how it should look under there. Also if you happen to be taking off the fuel sender/pump cover I'd like to see under there as I'll probably take that off ours tomorrow.

Joe_H · Dec 1, 2016

vhexs said:
Hi,

We recently bought a 1999 Freelander 2nd hand from a couple down the road. After the freezing cold night on Sunday, we went to drive to the shops and found that the car wouldn't start. The engine cranked slowly and the injector clicked. Suspecting it was a low battery, we attempted to bump-start the car to no avail (though we probably didn't do it right anyway). Yesterday we called out breakdown and the lad attempted to jump-start the car, which also failed. He suspected a dodgy fuel pump, and (with the jump-starter still connected) after kicking the fuel tank the car started once but failed on subsequent attempts. We added 10L of fuel last night, just in case, but this afternoon the car failed to start again, and the battery seems to be almost out too as lights pulse when the engine cranks over.
After doing some searching on the internet I found a YouTube video detailing how to replace the fuel pump & sender unit. Now here's the fun part... Under the under-seat mats in the rear of the car, we discovered dodgy wiring and a VERY rusty pump cover.
I've put together a huge collection of images here. Would any of you kind souls be willing to take up the mats in your Freelander and show us what it's supposed to look like under there? Also, do you have any ideas about what could be causing the issue (and how to rectify it)?

Thanks!
Sam

Hi Sam,
As for the battery - when the guy connected the jump leads did it turn over normally (but not start) ? (this is important) - failure not to turn over normally with jump leads could be down to poor battery connections / or grounding - not likely to be starter motor as it usually does not affect the lights. If it still struggled on jump starting (turning over) you may even have to consider a possibly small hydraulic lock. Easily tested by whipping out the plugs and turning it over and watching for a water jet from one or more pots. (unlikely but will certainly drag a battery completely down).
You may have several issues (as well as fuel pump) - check the voltage across the battery - it is certainly due for replacement at the moment regardless as the voltage dropping so low as to dim the lights to that level will have buckled the plating in the battery - so budget for another.
However, when you do get it going - immediately check the alternator (check the voltage across the battery with the engine running) - it should be 13.8 to 14.2 initially.

Hope you get it sorted soon. If the thing didn't turn over normally on jump start then I would look a lot deeper than the fuel pump.
Fingers crossed
Joe

vhexs · Dec 1, 2016

Thanks for your reply - as far as I'm aware it turned over as it normally would, just slower (possibly as the battery was already low - we'd been doing a few short trips into town with the lights on). We're phoning a garage to get a replacement battery, and if that doesn't sort it we'll look at fuel pump or other options.

Struan · Dec 1, 2016

Be worth checking that the inertia fuel cut off switch has not gone active. I had this on mine last week for no reason. Took it off gave it a shake and reset buy pressing the top and bingo fuel and started. Mines a 1999 1.8 petrol to. The inertia switch is under the bonnet on the right hand side bulk head, has thee wire connection. Give it a push on the rubber top see if it clicks and resets.

vhexs · Dec 1, 2016

I'll do that when I go to the car. I think the breakdown guy pressed it and it clicked, but still no luck.

Struan · Dec 1, 2016

I actually unbolted mine from the bulkhead and gave it a shake and then reset. Might be worth 5 minutes to try. But looking at your pictures i'd also check those wiring connections are good!

vhexs · Dec 1, 2016

We've got some tools so I'll try to get it off then, is there any need to disconnect the battery beforehand?

Struan · Dec 1, 2016

Not for the inertia switch. Its only held with a couple of M6 (i think) nuts.
But you start working around the fuel pump then yes you should disconnect the battery!..

Member

Well-Known Member

Member

Well-Known Member

Member

Well-Known Member

Member

Well-Known Member

Member

Well-Known Member

Member

Active Member

Member

Well-Known Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Similar threads