Flying Scotsman!

Flying Scotsman!

Active Member
Hi everyone.
Quick question .. I'm going to change the fuel filter on our 1.8 2004 (54 plate - only just bought it) as I think it may have been neglected. Although its had a recent service.
The engine revs are 'hunting' by maybe a 100 rpm at idle when hot. Runs great and starts great, just a wee fluctuation at idle.

Anyway.. where is the filter? Im cofused because I see lots of talk about 'in tank' filters, which is fine , but when I go to buy a new one I find a normal 'in line' one listed.
This one on eurocarparts...is this correct?
Crosland Fuel FilterProduct Code: 503670018

filter.jpg
 
Hi.
It is indeed a in tank filter and the picture above is NOT the correct filter for your vehicle, the following part numbers are for the filter you will need.
WFL000010 Genuine Land Rover £42.02 inc UK VAT.
WFL000010P - OEM £23.94 inc UK VAT.
WFL000010P - Aftermarket £18.50 inc UK VAT. Available from Rimmer Brothers.
Fuel Filter.jpg
 
Ah. The one with the sender unit etc.?
Cheers for that.
So.. what the hell is the one I posted for? :confused:

And does the fuel filter sound a likely cuplrit for fluctuating revs at idle?
 
Flying Scotsman! said:
Ah. The one with the sender unit etc.?
Cheers for that.
So.. what the hell is the one I posted for? :confused:

And does the fuel filter sound a likely cuplrit for fluctuating revs at idle?
Click to expand...

I've found it is better to replace the complete pump assembly, rather than mess about trying to fit a filter onto the pump housing.

Slight hunting at idle can be a few things. The IACV would be the first thing to look at. This gives random idle speed fluctuations. It probably just needs a clean.

A regular dip in idle speed before recovering is likely to be the AC compressor cycling in and out.
 
Last edited:
"A regular dip in idle speed before recovering is likely to be the AC compressor cycling in and out."...

Hang on!.... That might be it! Wife was driving and I didn't think to ask if the AC was on. It could be that.:rolleyes:
I shall investigate later.

And what the hell is the 'IACV'..??
 
Flying Scotsman! said:
"A regular dip in idle speed before recovering is likely to be the AC compressor cycling in and out."...

Hang on!.... That might be it! Wife was driving and I didn't think to ask if the AC was on. It could be that.:rolleyes:
I shall investigate later.

And what the hell is the 'IACV'..??
Click to expand...

The AC is active whenever the heater control is set to a screen position.

IACV = Idle Air Control Valve. This is a servo controlled air bypass valve for engine idle speed control. The ECU indexes the servo to increase or decrease idle speed.
 
Nodge68 said:
Those were the days. I've still got a pair of Stromies in storage!! I love setting up twin carbs. Sadly it's a lost art theses days.
Click to expand...
Did you use a stethoscope , screwdriver to the ear or gunsons carbalancer? (Whihc I used to sell !)
I always liked the carbalancer.
 
Flying Scotsman! said:
Did you use a stethoscope , screwdriver to the ear or gunsons carbalancer? (Whihc I used to sell !)
I always liked the carbalancer.
Click to expand...

I use an air mass gauge for carb balancing.

It is a more accurate way off measuring air mass then a listening tube or Gunson balancer.
 
IVAC = clean it by pulling the rubber hose off and squirting cabry cleaner into it - put hose back on! A/C sounds like the culprit though.
 
Did some poling around and its not eth AC causing it. So its definetly something else.
I'l take the IACV off and give it a clean and see what happens.
 
Well took the valve off and it was solid with carbon. Flushed it both directions with cleaner and used a little brush to scrub inside it.
Once the black **** stopped coming out it was 'loose' inside. Popped it back on and it idles like a new motor!
Thanks for the tip guys.
 
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