scotty57

Member
I had the HG done a couple of hundred miles ago and I'm going to drain/flush & refill at the weekend. Seen previous threads where different methods are suggested on how best to drain & flush and also what the Haynes manual says. What do you guys recommend ........
- header tank cap off
- does engine undertray have to come off ?
- bottom rad hose off OR hose off before/after PRT ?
- let it drain
- flush through with hosepipe into header tank for engine flush till water runs clear
- rad top hose off and hosepipe water in till water runs clear
- hoses back on and fill with coolant and bleed through the 2 bleed points

Is this about right ?
 
Make sure the heater is on full heat, so the heater drains/ fills, make sure the jiggle valve is free or removed so the head bleeds/ drains properly, and when you think you have bled all the air, bleed it again to make sure.
 
Make sure the heater is on full heat, so the heater drains/ fills, make sure the jiggle valve is free or removed so the head bleeds/ drains properly, and when you think you have bled all the air, bleed it again to make sure.

Why set the heater to full heat? There is no heater valve in the heating system in the FL1.
 
Why set the heater to full heat? There is no heater valve in the heating system in the FL1.

Correctamondo. It's an air blender heater so absolutely no need to need to have the heater on hot to bleed the matrix.
 
Correctamondo. It's an air blender heater so absolutely no need to need to have the heater on hot to bleed the matrix.

Is that like an air guitar? Just kidding!
Does that mean that coolant is always going through the heater's matrix and the cabin control opens / closes the air flow to it? I didn't know that!
 
Is that like an air guitar? Just kidding!
Does that mean that coolant is always going through the heater's matrix and the cabin control opens / closes the air flow to it? I didn't know that!

Now you know.
 

Similar threads