I noticed this morning there looks to be a bit of scoring/pitting on the drivers side swivel ball, so when that starts leaking (despite the fact that it was apparently done a month before I bought it ) I want to get a solid list of what parts I need ready for when it happens. Trawling through my old thread for my 90 I've worked out this list and adjusted for the fact that I now have ABS, I think! If anyone could double check I've got everything I'll be very grateful!

Swivel Ball - FTC5366
Upper Swivel Pin + Bearing - TAR100050
Lower Bearing - 606666G
Lower Swivel Pin - FRC2894
Swivel Oil Seal - Corteco - FTC3401
Swivel Gasket - FRC4206
Corteco Hub Seal - FTC4785
Flange Gasket - 571752
Shaft Circlip - FRC9526
Stub Gasket - FTC3648
Stub Axle Seal - FTC840G
Stub Axle Bearing - FTC861
Thrust Washer - FTC56
Wheel Bearings - WBK11T
Stub Axle Lock Nut - RFD100000
Drive Flange Bolts x5 - BX110095M
Axle - Stub Bolts x6 - SX110257M

I though since I have to strip it all down, may as well replace all the various bearings and seals, then not have to worry. As for wheel bearings, again for the sake of £18 may as well change em and keep the old ones as spares.

Let me know if theres anything missing, or if I've added things I don't need!

Thanks

I see you're getting new bolts for some things. You might as well get new bolts that hold the ball onto the axle too, as these are often difficult to undo and people end up cutting the heads off.

When I was doing mine I found myself using a lot of Loc-tite as well as quite a bit of gasket sealant. I smeared a bit on both sides of the paper gaskets and round the circumference of the large hub seals and everything's still leak free over two years later. So make sure you've got plenty in stock. A ratchet ring spanner of the relevant size for the ball to axle casing bolts helped a lot as you can just spin the old ones out and the new ones in really quickly. Obviously the ratchet mechanism isn't likely to be strong enough to start the existing bolts moving - you need a conventional flat ring spanner for that - but once they've shifted it's great to be able to spin them out.

You may not need the actual swivel pins for the lower bearings as they don't tend to wear. Indeed, you can get the outer casings off the inner balls without even undoing them in most cases.

This is also a good time to change ball joints on the steering components as you'll have everything apart anyway.

Mine are scored and leak oil.
l cannot get any of the LR garages round here to take on the job. The main one said l should "forget about it" and "stop filling them with grease as that is why they are leaking"
The other ones say they will get back to me and then never do.
They've been like that for over 20,000 miles.
l've given up.

lightning said:

Mine are scored and leak oil.
l cannot get any of the LR garages round here to take on the job. The main one said l should "forget about it" and "stop filling them with grease as that is why they are leaking"
The other ones say they will get back to me and then never do.
They've been like that for over 20,000 miles.
l've given up.

Click to expand...

Stop filling them up??....fecking maniacs....its people like that that may have given the previous owners of my 1988 110 advice, and i have just had to replace the CV joints as the pax one shattered due to lack of lube.......fecking cowboys!

@lightning what utter sh!tbags. Its actually not that hard of a job, I did my 90 left and right in a day. Just time consuming and fiddly, when I get round to doing mine ill try and take as many pics as i can, hopefully itll be enough that you can do it yourself!

@Brown I thought I had those bolts in the list? I was planning to replace all bolts not the biggest fan of reusing 13 year old bolts!

Good idea on the ratchet spanner, thats what took most the time when I did my 90.

Ok ill drop the lower swivel pin from the list, saves £15. Steering UJs are all new bar the drop arm ball joint

Yup, I think the only time a lower swivel pin might wear is if the roller bearing had become very stiff and the inner race was rotating on it. And that's probably very rare.

I can see bolts for the stub axle and for the drive flange but can't see the ones for the ball to axle casing.

Yes, good idea to get gaskets - only a few pence and saves cutting them out of gasket paper. Get the odd extra one in case anything tears.

lightning said:

Mine are scored and leak oil.
l cannot get any of the LR garages round here to take on the job. The main one said l should "forget about it" and "stop filling them with grease as that is why they are leaking"
The other ones say they will get back to me and then never do.
They've been like that for over 20,000 miles.
l've given up.

Click to expand...

It's really not that bad a job to attempt yourself. Very satisfying too. Also if you do it yourself you know that you've actually used new components. Without wishing to cast aspersions on garages, there's a possibility that they might charge you for new parts and just reuse the old ones.

Brown said:

Yup, I think the only time a lower swivel pin might wear is if the roller bearing had become very stiff and the inner race was rotating on it. And that's probably very rare.

I can see bolts for the stub axle and for the drive flange but can't see the ones for the ball to axle casing.

Yes, good idea to get gaskets - only a few pence and saves cutting them out of gasket paper. Get the odd extra one in case anything tears.

Click to expand...

Quite right! I thought SX110257M was the right one! Ill dig out the part number for those.

Am I missing gaskets too?

There is a good video guide on LRTV on you tube

greyhair said:

There is a good video guide on LRTV on you tube

Click to expand...

Cheers ill check em out when the time comes!

I always keep these vids in mind, if I ever need to change them. Altho not sure what difference the ABS makes.


Cheers